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Old 06-03-2014, 04:22 PM   #1
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32rh a999 a500 relocate air vent

Hi,
Okay, I have read a lot about relocating the air vent in the pump housing on the 32RH and 30 RH. I think this is the best way. No overdrive 3 speed.

Some sites have drilled into the top of the bellhousing into the pump. Not only does a lot of shavings go into the trans but it would make it very hard to pull the pump after. Probably affect the reaction seal too (seal on the outer of the pump-big O ring)

Did some more web searches and have found some drag racers that have been relocated the vent to the tail housing without issue. Also the webbing for the adapter housing is nice and thick on the top making it a great location to tap the fitting which does not even stick out on the inside of the housing.

So I blocked off the pump vent with a 1/4" NPT plug. Drilled and tapped a male 1/4" NPT 90 degree fitting with 3/8" barb into the adapter housing(centred at 3/4" back on the top). I'm using 3/8" hose that connects to the barb that will run up the rear corner, into the cab, up and out the air vent in the hard top where the wires for the rear wiper go. Should be nice and high. When I take the top off will just tie strap the vent line to the roll bar.

Not quite done yet, pics show a straight 1/4" that I will be using for the oil out and return from the cooler as 90 is still on order. Just using it for reference for now. I also have a 2 1/2" body lift that makes things a little easier. Will post more pics later.

From the info I gathered this is probably the best way to relocate the air vent if you plan on going through deep water or mud. You will also need a snorkel for the air intake and to silicone the harness for the ECM.

good luck lol
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:00 PM   #2
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You can check out my other thread on my trans rebuild for some more info if you are doing a rebuild or considering it.

32 RH auto trans rebuild, tips and tricks?

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Old 06-03-2014, 05:05 PM   #3
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I'm interested. Keep us posted.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:50 PM   #4
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Awesome thread! I have wondered myself if there wasn't a better way to upgrade the vent. Looks like you have it figured out.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:47 PM   #5
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So what I did was just pop a 13/64ths hole a little higher in the back of the transmission case to let the air escape through the park lever. I also trimmed the gasket on the inside to let the air pass through better. You can see a thin black line, that represents the big ring that holds the sprag on the inside. I could of went a little higher I think but didn't really want to chance drilling through the case. The park lever has lots of spare room to let the air through so should be good. Now you can go through all the water you want.

All the vent is doing is equalizing the pressure after the transmission heats up and cools down, or altitude changes. I figure the transmission would have to be on about a greater than 30 degree slope not to get air through. Just don't let the wrig warm up on a 30 degree plus slope, or cool down(park and shut off on a 30 degree slope) if you have to just make sure the front is pointing down and you should be fine. If you're above 30 degrees incline probably be close to rolling over anyway. Just don't stay like that for an extended period of time.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:37 PM   #6
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Got my calculator out, it's 23 degrees. Should be fine for any road, just something to watch rock crawling or flying through ditches.

If you do get hung up rock crawling, sitting on a high attack angle but not submerged just pull the dipstick out a bit, then you have a vent for incline and decline. Just remember to stick it back in once you're free.
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Old 06-04-2014, 10:12 PM   #7
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Stock, or even with the vent relocation at the front on the top of the bellhousing, on a steep decline you have no vent.
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:47 PM   #8
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Diffs and t case have a vent too, probably need to thread and extent those too.
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:00 PM   #9
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Took me an extra day or two but the vent is done. Just have the valve body to tune up and she's ready to go
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