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Old 04-28-2014, 07:23 PM   #1
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32RH auto transmission build, tips and tricks?

Hey guys and gals,

Just bought the jeep in september 2013. My trans was leaking so I changed the fluid, adjusted the bands, and tightened and put thread seal on the pressure port screws.
Worked good for a while but the trans oil was still leaking out of the bellhousing engine side, started slipping. All fluid levels were good, did another flush anyway and was good for a week then started slipping again, not engaging in any gear.

I just pulled the 32RH auto transmission and 231J transfer case. Turns out the torque converter in it is from an A500, mine is a A999.

1. Would this make a difference since the A500 is an electronic lockup and mine is a hydraulic lock up torque converter?

2. In my rebuild should I use red eagle clutches or raybestos clutches with kolene steals?

This is my first auto trans build, any help or advice is appreciated, thanks.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:37 PM   #2
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Search out a member registered as "Robert J. Yates" who frequents the TJ Technical forum at www.jeepforum.com where he is active. Send him a PM, he had his 32RH beefed up & has been happy with the results for years.

Here's a recent thread about the 32RH Robert was in... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/re.../#post22512681

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Old 05-03-2014, 03:34 PM   #3
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I don't have a profile there.

Trans build is going good. The valve body came off nice. The shifter ball fell out, was a little tricky to get back in. Fabricated my own trans pump puller and got my trans pump off. Flex plate all painted up with black ceramic engine enamel and looking good

I have everything I need but still have to find a good torque converter. I have lots of 5/16" armour on my wrig with a tuned 4.0L and blew the torque converter seal on my factory converter, an A500 lockup 783.

I have an A500 lockup, 26 spline, 1.810" pilot, flats on hub, 11" (90 degree 10" bolt), thin tabs. The stator is a 27 spline, does that make a difference?

Most high performance shops do not have an option for this converter.

Can anybody recommend a good converter for a 1997 4.0L TJ Sahara that has held up for them? I could change the input shaft for a different converter if I have too.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:08 PM   #4
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I don't have a profile there.
It takes about a minute to register there so you could get first-hand information on what you're asking.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:31 PM   #5
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Thanks Jer, but I'll just run the stock tc with raybestos clutches, and raybestos pro bands. Think it had a dacco when I bought it, arg!
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:54 PM   #6
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Another day with the Jeep. Have everything ordered. Went with a medium stall converter........Can you believer that is after a 3 hour wash.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:38 PM   #7
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Cleaned up the casting defects
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Old 05-08-2014, 01:07 PM   #8
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Found out why the trans would not engage. Forward clutches are starting to burn out. A thrust washer is a little worn too. Was going to go with raybestos, think I'm going to go with the red eagle V notch instead.

1. Has anybody tried either of the red eagle, or the Raybestos blue racing clutches for automatic transmission. Any preference?
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:31 PM   #9
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Just waiting on a couple parts then she's going back together. 5 grand for a racing transmission, or $500 to do it yourself.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:38 PM   #10
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How cool, you're really doing it right... a very nice job which few would have the guts or knowledge to do. You make me miss my old 32RH even more than I usually do... which is a lot!
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:34 PM   #11
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Thanks Jer, just got the clutches all fitted in. Just letting them soak for a bit before I install.

Direct (front) is spec at 1.7-3.4mm.

I'm sitting at 1.7-1.8mm to top of wave.

Forward (rear) clutch pack clearance is spec at .64-1.14mm.

I'm at .61 ish. Kind of tight but should wear a little breaking in I'm thinking.

I have the output shaft, governor, planet gears, sun shell, tail housing back in with new clads. I was thinking of relocating my vent to the adapter housing in the rear, block off the one at the pump. Seen some dragster guys do it. Think it would be way better than drilling into the pump housing which I have seen on other sites, that pump is hard enough to get out. Also have a new Raybestos pro 2" rear low/reverse band in, woohoo!

It's actually starting to look like a transmission again instead of a pile of parts.
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:11 PM   #12
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Hey,

1. Does anybody know if a 231 J transfer case out of a 1997 Jeep TJ Sahara 4.0L is a 6 gear planetary gear?

I was thinking of leaving it for now. No leaks and everything looks good. Was thinking of rebuilding it when I do my suspension lift with slip yoke eliminator. Don't really want to crack it open for now to see if I don't have too. If its not a 6, it's getting a rebuild lol.

Also I found a good spot to relocate the vent, block off the hole at the pump in the front with a 3/8" pipe plug. Tap and thread a 90 degree 1/4 NPT to 3/8" barb on the top of the trans, just behind the sun gear. It looks like there is lots of room there. I was thinking of putting it in the adapter housing but on a steep incline I think it might get blocked off when the fluid goes to the rear. Also if I have to drop the skid a couple inches for a suspension lift the trans would be angled down more. Will post some pics when I'm done.
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Old 06-02-2014, 02:03 PM   #13
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Do you have the ATSG for the 32RH?

I looked into getting the ATSG for my 04 Rubicon, but I can't find a book for the 42RLE anywhere.
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Old 06-02-2014, 02:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _97JeepTJ View Post
Hey,

1. Does anybody know if a 231 J transfer case out of a 1997 Jeep TJ Sahara 4.0L is a 6 gear planetary gear?

I was thinking of leaving it for now. No leaks and everything looks good. Was thinking of rebuilding it when I do my suspension lift with slip yoke eliminator. Don't really want to crack it open for now to see if I don't have too. If its not a 6, it's getting a rebuild lol.

Also I found a good spot to relocate the vent, block off the hole at the pump in the front with a 3/8" pipe plug. Tap and thread a 90 degree 1/4 NPT to 3/8" barb on the top of the trans, just behind the sun gear. It looks like there is lots of room there. I was thinking of putting it in the adapter housing but on a steep incline I think it might get blocked off when the fluid goes to the rear. Also if I have to drop the skid a couple inches for a suspension lift the trans would be angled down more. Will post some pics when I'm done.
Where are you going to run the tube to for the new breather? Mine was ran up into the firewall next to the transfer case breather.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:56 PM   #15
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I did end up putting the vent line in the adapter housing. The housing on the top of the trans is kind of thin. Also windage from the gears might pump fluid out. Started a new thread for the air vent relocation if you were thinking of doing it for your jeep.

32rh a999 a500 relocate air vent
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:15 PM   #16
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I drove thru a blizzard last year. Snow was coming up over the hood. The hole undercarage was packed with ice. The firewall isn't much higher than were the stock vent is. I was planning on running the lines thru the cab with a disconnect going up into the hard top, so when I take the top off can switch it to a line going up the roll bar. Try to sneak it in with the wiring for the rear wiper and defrost. Out the vent on the rear top corner of the hard top. I just replaced this vent when I bought the used hard top. Think there should be enough room in there.

Just finished relocating the vent in the trans.

All I have left to do is to clean up the valve body. Manual says that sludge is prone to comebacks, so cleaning it out is a good idea. I'm just dreading taking that shift ball out again, took me a day or two of scratching my head to get it back in grrr.

I bought a manual valve that circulates the trans fluid in park. I also have a new billet aluminium racing actuator piston with double seals. The stock piston is plastic with only 2 c clip seals. The new one has the c clip seals but also 2 o ring seals to back them up.

I was going to put in a shift kit in but can just see my girlfriend throwing it into 2nd going down the highway lol. My buddy just grenaded his rover doing this. Might put one in later.
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:30 PM   #17
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nasty
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:37 PM   #18
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much better
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:05 PM   #19
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So now that everything is back together my input shaft endplay is .8mm. Spec is .56 - 2.31mm. I bought a .4 mm bigger thrust washer to tighten it up a bit. If you're doing an overhaul would be a good thing to check before you disassemble.

Also my line pressure adjustment was out too. Spec is 1 5/16". It was at 1 8/16" (1 1/2")

So I figure, with the pump leak and the low line pressure it burned out my rear clutch(direct). The rear clutch is used in all the gears.

The symptoms of this are that it won't engage in drive. It will however engage in reverse, until the fluid gets so bad that even reverse won't work. I changed the fluid 3 times trying to flush it, and adjusted the bands. Each time the trans would work normal for a couple weeks then slip when in gear. It kind of sucked because I could back out of my driveway but could not drive back up it. If you ever had to push a jeep with 5/16" armour it is not fun lol

My rear clutch is now .61mm. Spec is .64 - 1.14mm. It was 1.7mm before rebuild.

Red eagle high performance racing clutches with kolene steals, new sprag, races, clads, seals. Billet actuator with double seals and relocated vent. I think I'm in pretty good shape.
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:33 PM   #20
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oh thank God, it's all back together. If you have to take the valve body out shift the trans to 1st gear, tie strap the park shaft assembly so it dosen't come out, then move the park lever out and slide in place. If the park lever ball does come out, push it in and put a small tie strap on it to hold it in place(no special tool required). Then slide the park-throttle shaft assembly overtop pushing the tie strap out of the way, then cut tie strap. Worked good for me.
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:45 PM   #21
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makco transmission parts sells the manuals. Or if you do some extensive google searches can usually find a pdf file online.

All I need now is a torque converter. Don't really want to get just a rebuilt after doing all that work. Might have to get a custom one, need an (A500 596,783) flats on hub, with lock up if anybody knows a good tc shop?
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:53 PM   #22
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This is what it looked like when I first pulled it out
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:39 PM   #23
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Your lucky you can do that. My Jeep is sitting in a lot right now getting the 42RLE Rebuilt after the torque converter clutch started slipping.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:09 AM   #24
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I drove thru a blizzard last year. Snow was coming up over the hood. The hole undercarage was packed with ice. The firewall isn't much higher than were the stock vent is.
mine is ran up the firewall and next to the transfer case breather, this is higher than the motor sits. This is waaaaayyy farther than where the stock vent sits on top of the trans.

Very informational thread though!
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:47 PM   #25
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Whatever works for ya. I agree, it is better than stock. Think the ice blocked off the little vent on the bottom of the cover plate, so my vent couldn't breath(stock). Resulted in blown seals. I just plan on hitting some boat launches where only 4 wheeler bikes go so running trans, transfer, diff vents a little higher up the rear corner.

Gone fishing.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:26 PM   #26
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Just rebuilding the starter. It was pretty nasty. Just going to put some new brushes in, not too much left on them. Broke one of the long bolts that clamp it together, and an easy out is not so easy. Just going to have to drill and tap a new one. That's what happens when you stick a mitsubishi starter in a jeep lol.
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:47 AM   #27
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well the trans and transfer case is back in. I just bolted the trans in first then bolted up the transfer case, was easier to jack into place. Did it all by myself. Probably should have jacked the transfer case up but heaved it into place. Think I pulled a muscle, owh! The trans is about 150 - 200 pounds with full tc. The transfer case is about 75 - 100 pounds. Skid is all bolted up and driveshafts installed

For the trans air vent relocation hose, I just left a coil on the driverside firewall. When and if I get a snorkel I will just run the hose across and up the snorkel.

Just have to finish up the starter, put the battery back in, adjust tv cable, and install dipstick tube and fill.

Also putting in an inline oil filter. I would of liked to put in the amsoil full flow oil filter with bypass filter. Filters to about 2 microns but is a $500 add on. So just found a full external flow oil filter adapter, and was able to put on an M1-204 mobile one filter that is for the 97 4.0L, should make easy to install the same engine oil and transmission oil filter. Just going to install it on the return line from the cooler which drains back into the pan. Think they filter down to 20 microns, and have a big brass filter in the pan. Also putting in a trans cooler, still in mail. Going to fabricate a mount in front of rad for it with 1" angle aluminium.

1. Is there any special filling procedure that I have to do for filling it dry?

I did fill the torque converter a little more than half when I installed it to try make it easier on the pump. Hopefully don't get an air lock.

I did end up installing the factory A500 783 torque converter, didn't want to chance a rebuilt one, and couldn't find a good aftermarket. Should be fine, it dosen't have any clutches in it.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:28 PM   #28
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well the trans and transfer case is back in. I just bolted the trans in first then bolted up the transfer case, was easier to jack into place. Did it all by myself. Probably should have jacked the transfer case up but heaved it into place. Think I pulled a muscle, owh! The trans is about 150 - 200 pounds with full tc. The transfer case is about 75 - 100 pounds. Skid is all bolted up and driveshafts installed

For the trans air vent relocation hose, I just left a coil on the driverside firewall. When and if I get a snorkel I will just run the hose across and up the snorkel.

Just have to finish up the starter, put the battery back in, adjust tv cable, and install dipstick tube and fill.

Also putting in an inline oil filter. I would of liked to put in the amsoil full flow oil filter with bypass filter. Filters to about 2 microns but is a $500 add on. So just found a full external flow oil filter adapter, and was able to put on an M1-204 mobile one filter that is for the 97 4.0L, should make easy to install the same engine oil and transmission oil filter. Just going to install it on the return line from the cooler which drains back into the pan. Think they filter down to 20 microns, and have a big brass filter in the pan. Also putting in a trans cooler, still in mail. Going to fabricate a mount in front of rad for it with 1" angle aluminium.

1. Is there any special filling procedure that I have to do for filling it dry?

I did fill the torque converter a little more than half when I installed it to try make it easier on the pump. Hopefully don't get an air lock.

I did end up installing the factory A500 783 torque converter, didn't want to chance a rebuilt one, and couldn't find a good aftermarket. Should be fine, it dosen't have any clutches in it.
Quick question where did u get that inline filter adapter. Would like to put one of those on mine do I can change it without having to drop the pan plus add a little more filtration to the system
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:33 PM   #29
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Got the adapter from ebay(Transmission Fluid External Remote Oil Filter Mount~FRAM PH8A 2 Port Horizontal) It says to use fram filters but I've heard bad things about fram so used a mobil 1 filter for 97 Jeep TJ 4.0L. Any (3/4"-16 Oil Filter Threads) will work.

No you do not have to drop the pan to put one in. But I would recommend a transmission oil change at the same time, dropping the pan or putting a pan in with a drain plug. Or you can also buy drain plugs for metal pans, put a drain in the stock pan if you want to make trans oil changes painless.

On the driver side of the transmission there are 2 oil lines going to your rad/oil cooler (hard lines). The rear line is the port from the cooler/rad to the transmission (this is the port you want to use to install the oil filter in between the transmission port and the rad/oil cooler, on the return line.

You will need
-enough 3/8" id oil hose to get from your rad - trans oil filter - transmission rear driver side port.
-4 hose clamps
-oil filter adapter
-oil filter
-1 3/8" npt connector for your rear transmission port since the hard line will be removed and 3/8" hose connected.
-about 10 tie wraps.

I installed the new lines rad-filter adapter-transmission rear port, made sure everything fit nice, then transferred the lines over, then disconnected and removed the hard line. I replaced both hard lines out and into the transmission and replaced them with hose. Both the hard lines run right by the exhaust header, didn't really like that too much since it wouldn't cool the line very good running right by a 1500 degree pipe. Just make sure they do not interfere with the park/tv shift linkages, or the front driveshaft. I ran the lines up the driverside frame rail, over top the engine mount, and with the power steering lines to the rad/oil cooler.

I have the transmission back in, just have to dial it in now. I even got some mud on the jeep I really like the red eagle racing clutches, they don't let go for nothin. I don't know about that billet accumulator piston, was hitting 3000 with no throttle pressure and still not shifting. Don't think its very streetabe. I didn't want to push the clutches too much breaking them in. Think it has 2 seals because it takes 6000 rpm to shift lol, see if I can tune it?
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:34 PM   #30
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I initially installed the filter vertically, I was getting an air lock, felt the filter adapter when it was running and was warm at the top but not at the filter. I unscrewed it a little to let the air out, then screwed it back in. I also mounted it horizontally with the in at the top and the out at the bottom. Everything is working great now. There is a bolt hole at the top of the bracket in between the firewall and the fender on the drivers side that the filter fits nicely in. It's a nice spot because you don't have to drill and it's out of the way protected.
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