Ok I've read posts about this. My trans has the "drain back" after sitting overnight or for long periods of time. Trans has a lag when put into gear for the first time. By putting it in neutral for a few seconds cures it. But thats not how I want it to be. Correct is how it needs to be. After reading posts and research I believe its the oil cooler pressure valve. Otherwise known as a check valve. I've checked both cooler lines to and from trans and cant locate any check valve. I went ahead and ordered one from my local dealer, $46.65 plus tax. Can ANYONE tell me exactly where it is? Gave dealer my vin and they say it shows it has one but they cant produce a pic or where its located. I would like a pic if possible. Hope its not in the trans.
KenG
The check valve is in the transmission cooler line itself, between the radiator and transmission. Next to where the hard line meets the rubber hose. I've had to had those lines off & disconnected/reconnected many times but don't recall seeing the check valve as easily separately replaceable. It may require an entire new set of cooler lines IIRC to get a new check valve, the dealer doesn't sell the two (in/out) lines separately.
Ahh ok. I'll have to check then. I have about 10 inches of rubber hose coming off the radiator. But I replaced the radiator with a bigger 2 row all aluminum. Replaced the robber hoses then. Dont recall seeing it. But Ill check again. Come to think of it, the problem didnt start happening until after I changed radiators. Wonder if I did something or inadvertantly did away with it when I replaced the hoses. Thanks for the info. Gives me somewhere to start. I was thinking it would be something visible.
Jerry, Just called dealer again, talked to another person. They said my particular jeep didnt come with one. And I remember now that when I replaced my radiator, I had solid steal tubing from radiator to trans. I had to cut the line to get the fittings to square up on radiator. I cut about 10 inches off and replaced with rubber hoses. Throwing this out, could my problem be that I have a bigger radiator, more area for the trans fluid to go thru and at start up having to take more effort to get to the supply line? My fluid level looks good , but its been running too, so that might be deceiving. Just trying to get this figured out and not having to much faith in my local chrysler dealer.
I dunno but I've worked with three different sets of cooler lines and all had check valves inside them whose fittings were swaged onto the hard lines and not separately replaceable. On the lines I installed, the check valves were internal and they were not removable/installable or sold separately... which leads me to believe the parts guy you talked with thinks they don't have one because there probably is no separate part number for the check valve itself. In the FSM, it says the transmission coolant lines are only available as complete pre-assembled units with nothing being separately replaceable or available.
COOLER LINE AND FITTING SERVICE
The cooler lines and fittings are NOT serviceable .
Damaged fittings or cooler lines are to be replaced as
assemblies.
Fittings swedged into cooler line hoses are serviced
only as part of the entire cooler line.
COOLER LINE AND FITTING SERVICE
The cooler lines and fittings are NOT serviceable .
Damaged fittings or cooler lines are to be replaced as
assemblies.
Fittings swedged into cooler line hoses are serviced
only as part of the entire cooler line.
I have a 30RH not a 34RH but they should be close? I had my trans rebuilt and my check valve was damaged. It was a plastic ball inside the driver-side line. The valve and line must have been updated a few times because the dealer had several part numbers that were updated from the original part numbers. The shop called the dealer and found 2 options. A entire line with the check valve inside of it and just the check valve. I think the check valve is a retrofitted part? The entire line was about $90 and just the check valve was $10. The trans shop said they could cut the line and splice in the $10 check valve with hose clamps. I am supposed to stop back at the shop next week when the check valve is in. I will see if they have the actual part number. The benefit of the entire line and built in check valve is one less hose clamp to fail or leak.
This is what i'm getting at. Dealer here says one thing and you guys are saying something different. Im taking your words over the dealer. Let me know how it turns out. I really appreciate the input.
Yes i checked and thats when the parts guy said he can get me the valve for 46 and change. The second time i called them, a different parts guy said i can drop the tranny and put a live kit in it. And again was told mine didnt have one. He checked for bulletins and didnt see one. My son, working at oriellys in mahattan ks and student, found a bulletin about it in about 5 min. No confidence in my local dealer. I mustve been typing it it wrong on the internet. I was looking for transmission cooling lines. Kept getting me fittings. I'll check out the website and hopefully get what i need. Thanks again for the info
Today I got the oil cooler pressure valve in. I have restored my confidence in my dealer. They were able to find a diagram of where its supposed to be. The other thing I had to purchase was a barb tite fitting to screw to the end of the valve so I can attach it to the line. Rubber hosed it on either end. Got it installed and took it for a drive. So far no leaks and everything is operating as should be. Now the test is to let it sit overnight. I'll know for sure in the morning when I take it to work. If this works, and I think it will, this route is a lot cheaper then buying the lines. The valve was 46.65 from the dealer. Part # 55116910AA. The barb tite was part #677.04.66. Not sure if thats a dealer specific or nation wide. Was in a bin. That was 5.90. Total with tax 56.91. Heres a couple pics. I want to thank everyone for they're input, it was and is valuable to me. I'll do a quick post tomorrow and tell if it works.
Attachments
Ya, let me know. If mine sits over night, 12 hours, it is fine and moves, but 24 hours, It will slip for 3-4 seconds until it wants to go.
Will do. Did notice one thing. I drove it around some more, and don't know if its my imagination, but it shifts so much better, hold first and second gear longer on a load and doesnt lurch or hit as hard putting into gear. But when I got home and went into reverse I noticed what sounds like a burst of air. Kinda like release of pressure. But it only did it once. So We'll see. Theres only one way to put that valve in.
PERFECT!! Started it up after sitting for 14 hours, which is plenty long for mine. Put it in reverse and worked like a brand new tranny. It shifts better and acts like new. Im guessing that the valve also regulates the flow, and before without it was a free for all. But i still have the noise like a pressure release when i put it into reverse from drive, but not all the time. I'll investigate that a little more. Dont want to ruin the trans.
I finally took my TJ back to the trans shop last Tues for the valve. It's a very common problem and shops know how to fix the problem with OEM and aftermarket parts. Like I said before there were 2 options. I thought both were dealer options before. One is a aftermarket part. A new line with the valve inside or just a valve that has to be spliced into the existing line. I think the new line is a factory Mopar part. Cost was something like $100 retail or $74 wholesale jobber price. I went with the separate valve that had to be spliced in for $8. I think the valve is aftermarket. It is made by Sonnex and ordered through a company that supplies transmission parts to shops, Trans Star Industries. The part number is #A367610. The valve is inside a metal housing and a compression fitting so it is installed like a metal brake line using a flaring tool so no hose clamps. It is spliced right into the metal part of the line. The shop measured the trans fluid overnight and pressure checked it to make sure the valve worked and checked for leaks. No problems. All I had to pay for was $8 for the valve, the shop installed for me as part of the rebuild.
To be honest the factory Mopar line and built in valve might end up costing the same if you had to pay someone to do the labor of cutting, flaring, splicing in the valve in? It's not hard to do, it's just like splicing a metal brake line. It is a solid connection without clamps though. It's nice to have a option if you are handy.
To be honest the factory Mopar line and built in valve might end up costing the same if you had to pay someone to do the labor of cutting, flaring, splicing in the valve in? It's not hard to do, it's just like splicing a metal brake line. It is a solid connection without clamps though. It's nice to have a option if you are handy.
Ya that sounds like a more solid way of doing it. I talked with one of our trans shops, but didnt like theyre answer. They didnt recommend even installing one. Wasnt clear on his thought process. Seems to be working fine. And that noise hasnt happened again since this morning. I wouldve rather not had to use clamps, but wasnt going to take it to a shop for that.
Well im not sure, it didnt do it before i put the valve in. And yes i found out the same info about the torque converter. Im definitely no expert, but i swear it shifts and works better. I took a drive this afternoon and it worked flawlessly.
trans in drive all the time
i have a problem with this jeep i bought its an 84 cj7 it has a chevy 383 in it with dana out of 3/4 chevy in it . i got the jeep because alot of the foot work is done on it already . the kicker is it has an adaptor plate on it with and dodge or jeep tranny . heres my issue . every gear and i mean every gear i put it in is drive . i can put it in park and it will hold it there but you can still here the load on it . i took valve body out cleaned it all up i adjusted the bands correctly i think . put it all back together and same thing maybe a little better seems like it goes in reverse but just sounds like i have my foot on the brake and it goes no where . the other issue is i dont know exactly what trans is in there , i thought it was a 904 but after looking and looking at pictures and diagrams it looks to be a 32rh . any help would be appreciated . the wife and kids cant wait to get dirty .
i have a problem with this jeep i bought its an 84 cj7 it has a chevy 383 in it with dana out of 3/4 chevy in it . i got the jeep because alot of the foot work is done on it already . the kicker is it has an adaptor plate on it with and dodge or jeep tranny . heres my issue . every gear and i mean every gear i put it in is drive . i can put it in park and it will hold it there but you can still here the load on it . i took valve body out cleaned it all up i adjusted the bands correctly i think . put it all back together and same thing maybe a little better seems like it goes in reverse but just sounds like i have my foot on the brake and it goes no where . the other issue is i dont know exactly what trans is in there , i thought it was a 904 but after looking and looking at pictures and diagrams it looks to be a 32rh . any help would be appreciated . the wife and kids cant wait to get dirty .
Just wanted to say thanks to KenG for posting that part number. Lots of conflicting info out there on this notorious check valve. My local dealer said the lines were available separate, but had no knowledge of the check valve. My current Jeep hasn't developed the delay just yet, but I can hear the pump cavitate for about a half-second the first time I start it up in the mornings. The cooler the temperature, the louder it is. If I start it in Neutral, it's dead quiet. Been looking at different options including the Sonnax manual valve, but prefer to keep it simple.
Update: The check valve didn't solve the noise issue I mentioned in my previous post, but the Sonnax 22771-09 manual valve did. The new manual valve charges the converter in Park and does away with the need for the check valve.
Threadsurrection.
I've got all the same symptoms. Fluid leaks after sitting over night or longer (mine isn't a daily driver so it sits for days or weeks at a time), hesitation out of park but otherwise no adverse driving behaviors.
I've taken it to a trans shop several times where a bunch of seals have been replaced. During the last trip there over a year ago, he mentioned the vslve inside the torque converter, but didn't want to do that until he could rule out seller issues. Since then I found out about the check valve and I'm convinced that's my problem.
Here are my questions.
1. Is the check valve in the rubber or metal line?
2. This is the passenger side, right?
3. When changing the whole line, is it replaced from the radiator back or just the hard line back?
4. If I went with an aftermarket trans cooler, will that line have its own check valve or will I need to still replace the line?
5. Is there a write up/complete parts list on the Sonnex valve install?
6. What is meant by "manual valve"?
I've got all the same symptoms. Fluid leaks after sitting over night or longer (mine isn't a daily driver so it sits for days or weeks at a time), hesitation out of park but otherwise no adverse driving behaviors.
I've taken it to a trans shop several times where a bunch of seals have been replaced. During the last trip there over a year ago, he mentioned the vslve inside the torque converter, but didn't want to do that until he could rule out seller issues. Since then I found out about the check valve and I'm convinced that's my problem.
Here are my questions.
1. Is the check valve in the rubber or metal line?
2. This is the passenger side, right?
3. When changing the whole line, is it replaced from the radiator back or just the hard line back?
4. If I went with an aftermarket trans cooler, will that line have its own check valve or will I need to still replace the line?
5. Is there a write up/complete parts list on the Sonnex valve install?
6. What is meant by "manual valve"?
1. On models with the 32RH it's where the rubber line connects to the metal line. I can't speak for the 04 & later Overdrive models, as I have no hands-on with those.
2. The line goes along the drivers side of the engine beside the oil pan, the check valve screws onto the front of the metal line.
3. The only part of the line I replaced was the check valve itself.
4. Just going out on a limb here, but I'm guessing the aftermarket cooler won't have a check valve of it's own.
5. Other than the valve, filter & fluid, that's about it. Mine had a Mopar reusable pan gasket. If that's what yours has, I suggest staying with it, as I had issues with the rubber gasket that came with my filter leaking afterwards. Valve body removal is required to do the Sonnax manual valve, and it's kind of tricky getting the park rod back into place once you've removed it. If you're not 100% comfortable with going into an automatic trans, I'd suggest taking it to somebody who is.
6. The manual valve is in the valve body, and it's the valve that is directly moved by the shift lever.
The overnight fluid leak is more than likely going to be the seal where the manual lever (the lever that attaches to the manual valve) passes through the case.
2. The line goes along the drivers side of the engine beside the oil pan, the check valve screws onto the front of the metal line.
3. The only part of the line I replaced was the check valve itself.
4. Just going out on a limb here, but I'm guessing the aftermarket cooler won't have a check valve of it's own.
5. Other than the valve, filter & fluid, that's about it. Mine had a Mopar reusable pan gasket. If that's what yours has, I suggest staying with it, as I had issues with the rubber gasket that came with my filter leaking afterwards. Valve body removal is required to do the Sonnax manual valve, and it's kind of tricky getting the park rod back into place once you've removed it. If you're not 100% comfortable with going into an automatic trans, I'd suggest taking it to somebody who is.
6. The manual valve is in the valve body, and it's the valve that is directly moved by the shift lever.
The overnight fluid leak is more than likely going to be the seal where the manual lever (the lever that attaches to the manual valve) passes through the case.
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