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Old 09-15-2013, 08:54 PM   #1
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4 link break on rear axle housing

So I went up one of the harder trails I've ever done since I've had a ton of work on my '99 TJ done in the Tonto National Forest just north of Phoenix on a trail called the "Sunflower Mine", and had one of the control arm mounts on my rear driver's side of the axle housing break off.
It almost exactly broke off slightly above but along the weld and am a little irritated because I wasn't pushing the Jeep too hard and feel as if the break is a little premature considering all the suspension and undercarriage work I've had done recently.
I never bottomed out the entire trail and drove really thought out lines and was able to get up the boulders and obstacles the first time every time throughout the trail.
I understand these breaks happen but does anyone have advice for me moving from here on out as far as reinforcement?! I plan on getting much heavier duty axles at some point in the future maybe even ProRock 60's when I put on bigger tires but as for now, any temporary suggestions?

Thank you in advance!

- Greg

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Old 09-15-2013, 09:23 PM   #2
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What rear end? New brackets welded on or factory? If new then I would say go back to where you got the work dond and have them install new brackets that are more stout.

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Old 09-15-2013, 11:45 PM   #3
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They could have spent too much time on that one weld to fill it or went too slow with too many amps and got the metal too hot. It may have gotten too hot and became brittle. If that's the case I would be suspect of every weld they did.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:02 AM   #4
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So basically after talking with them today, it was a stock weld on that rear left axle housing so they ordered me a 3/16 cold rolled steel rubi express mount, little pricey it seems with labor but I need it fixed ASAP since I am moving this week. They said $330 with labor and the mount. Ridiculous if you ask me, they said the weld should take 5 hours but that they could do it in 3. Any thoughts? Good move or no?
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:06 AM   #5
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330 to weld on one bracket?

The brackets (2 of them) on the high end are like 65.

To weld them on should only take around an hour. Tops


I got my 8.8 all welded up with an axle truss etc. for around 500. That is having a buddy weld everythign on for 100. but still


That sounds like way to much to me.



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Old 09-17-2013, 05:10 PM   #6
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$330 would get you well on your way to a decent used 220 welding machine. Spend a couple hours using it. Voila.

It's not rocket science.
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:20 PM   #7
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One bracket is going to take them 5 hours to weld...?
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:33 PM   #8
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So the outcome was $330 as I said before BUT I went with the upgraded mounts that Rubicon Express puts out that are much more bulkier than the stock mounts and he also had to replace my break line that nearly was completely broken in half which would've been a pain in the ass on the trail but it looks a lot better but this brings me to a new question....

Should I keep bulking up my stock Dana 30/35's or look to get a new set of axles in the future?!

I love to rock crawl and hit some really rugged and aggressive trails out here in Arizona which has always been my main focus with my Wrangler. Look at my profile but I already have lockright lockers installed on both the front and rear axles, 35" tires, and new rear spicer driveshaft. I'd hate to have to get rid of all this to get new axles....

I plan to maybe go a little bigger on the tires in a couple years when the current treads go out but don't like putting money into things that I'm not able to upgrade or directly improve in the future - in other words, putting money into my current axles where I might have to buy new ones in the future. I plan to get a lot of really good parts all around the Jeep from engine mods to anything else that will make it more powerful, solid, and durable so I'd hate to have a weak link in a major area like the axles.

Any suggestions?
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:48 PM   #9
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The second one is obviously of my original stock mount on the rear right side of the axle and the other one is of my new mount on the rear left side
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:42 AM   #10
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You have locked 35's on a Dana 35 and haven't broken it yet?? Wowzers. To answer your question, yes I would look at either a Super kit for the Dana 35 or a Dana 44 swap.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:47 AM   #11
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haha broken what yet the axles or axle housings? I guess I've been looking at a lot of posts and don't really understand why the lockers have such a playing force in breaking axle components? Is it because of the added stress to the axles when they lock up?
I guess my second question is how big can you go with Dana 44's up front and on the back? Or are you just suggesting keep my D30 up front and only swapping the D35 for a D44 in the rear? I have lockers in the front and back too don't forget.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:20 AM   #12
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Then again I guess after researching a lot of posts and forums I think I gotta stop looking bigger and build up what I have - I suppose that's a typical Jeep owner for ya, always wanting the biggest and baddest but doesn't have the money (Just Empty Every Pocket - right?)

Let me rephrase my last question here, from this post below that I found, is the following possible:
Run my stock Dana 35 in the front (and maybe at some point bulk it up with some sleeves and trusses and throw some Chromo's in it) then get a strong Ford 8.8 in the rear (and eventually bulk that up too with some sleeves and trusses and throw some Chromo's in it)??
My end goal would be to have a super solid rig runnin' no bigger than 35's that I can beat up crawling and running some hard trails.

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Old 09-25-2013, 08:38 AM   #13
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$330 would get you well on your way to a decent used 220 welding machine. Spend a couple hours using it. Voila.

It's not rocket science.
It may not be rocket science, but I've sure been around enough work done by "rocket scientists" that makes my life miserable that I'd gladly have had the owners pay that much before I got it to get the brackets at least put in the right spot. I just did one where they welded the front lower brackets on an inch to the outside of where they normally go. That created a lot more than 300 bucks worth of misery, clearance issues, and problems with shocks and brakes.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:42 AM   #14
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One bracket is going to take them 5 hours to weld...?

Welding the bracket is 10 minutes at most. Cutting the old one off, getting access to cut it off and clean it, putting it all back together, prep, post weld paint, alignment and everything else it takes to make sure it is done right is not a small task unless you and the customer don't care much how it turns out.
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:49 AM   #15
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Welding the bracket is 10 minutes at most. Cutting the old one off, getting access to cut it off and clean it, putting it all back together, prep, post weld paint, alignment and everything else it takes to make sure it is done right is not a small task unless you and the customer don't care much how it turns out.

This. Just yesterday I had to weld a driver seat bracket on a '92 XJ. (Not sure what happened). I quoted the customer 1.5hr. They could not understand how a couple 1 1/2" welds could take an hour and a half. I reassured them that it would be better to remove the seat, remove the bracket from the seat, and clean the old paint off before I welded the bracket, and squirt some black paint on it when I was done.
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Old 09-26-2013, 12:05 AM   #16
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This. Just yesterday I had to weld a driver seat bracket on a '92 XJ. (Not sure what happened). I quoted the customer 1.5hr. They could not understand how a couple 1 1/2" welds could take an hour and a half. I reassured them that it would be better to remove the seat, remove the bracket from the seat, and clean the old paint off before I welded the bracket, and squirt some black paint on it when I was done.
I agree and that is how I meant to word the phrase - I assumed that everyone would have figured that that included everything. But still with that being said, do you think a Ford 8.8 in the rear should be my next step then bulking up the D35 in the front?

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