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Old 09-27-2009, 09:01 PM   #1
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4in to 6in lift, need some help??

just curious what it would take and if its really worth it. Would like to take my 2003 up another inch or 2 if possible. Could i just add coil spacers, or what would be the best way to handle this? Also with a 4.0 and Automatic, would it be able to handle a 6 inch lift without putting alot of extra ware and tear on everything. Would like to hear the pro's and cons and what it would take to do this..

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Old 09-27-2009, 09:03 PM   #2
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Old 09-27-2009, 10:26 PM   #3
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What set up are you running now?
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:21 PM   #4
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You have 4 inches now? what cha looking for out of an additional 2 inches? If you say running 35's you got room now. Just add a (nearly mandatory) 1.25 Body lift for the tummy tuck.
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:33 PM   #5
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I kinda am going the sameroute you want to, Right now I have 2in spacers and love them but wouldlike to ADD 4in of lift, and I to had some concerns! I was told I would probubly need a SYE, possably longer drive shafts and do something(i forget) with the trac bars, but that is what someone told me so im not really sure. I hope some one will clairify what myself and you will need to do in order to get our 6in lift.
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:40 PM   #6
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ok issue with running a 2 inche spacer rather than just 6 inche springs is that the spring will full compress and can become bound. (damaged) I ran 2 inche spacers on my rubi when I put a winch on the front just to level it springs would bottom out before shocks and sucks. Spacers are a TEMP fix for rub issues at best IMO.


If you add 4 inches of lift to your jeep you WILL need a SYE and a new rear driveshaft. Also need to get the right shock for the height of lift you get.

I could go on but If you research a bit you will see the most common setup for a 4 inch lifted TJ is 4 inch lift 1.25 BL, 1'' Motor mount lift a tummy tuck, SYE.

That will net you 35's np. Add some tube fenders and most 37s will fit.
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:07 AM   #7
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lift

I would just like to have 6" of lift without putting alot of extra strain on the motor, trans, etc... as well as maintaining somewhat of a decent ride. My buddy is telling me just to put some 2" spacers on my coil springs, as i already have a 4" lift. Im not a big fan of body lifts, for some reason they just dont look right, to many gaps to look at. maybe someone has a remedy for this. plus with a bodylift dont have to extend a bunch of things, like transmission linkage, wires, etc... also are there any cons to running 35's?
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:46 AM   #8
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I would just like to have 6" of lift without putting alot of extra strain on the motor, trans, etc... as well as maintaining somewhat of a decent ride. My buddy is telling me just to put some 2" spacers on my coil springs, as i already have a 4" lift. Im not a big fan of body lifts, for some reason they just dont look right, to many gaps to look at. maybe someone has a remedy for this. plus with a bodylift dont have to extend a bunch of things, like transmission linkage, wires, etc... also are there any cons to running 35's?
What set up are you running now? I understand you have a 4" lift, but that could mean a complete 4" lift where you've got adjustable control arms, adjustable trackbars, CV Driveshaft, SYE, etc . . . or it could be an entry level kit with fixed arms and a Dropped Belly. You can't just chuck 2" spacers and nothing else as that is basically a cheap way of making your springs longer which will affect everything else from your driveline angles, steering, shock length, etc. If you have a complete kit now, you might be able to make it work with some adjustments, different shocks, etc., but if you have a basic 4" kit, you'll have a lot of parts to buy. The 1.25" BL along with a 1" MML would be all you should need for 35.

And yes there are definitely cons to running 35s . . . bigger tires = extra weight = more stress. Things to look at with 35s . . . Steering . . . that cheesy stock tierod won't last long. Axles . . . most recommend having D44s if you are running 35s, but lots of people run them with the 30/35 combo, but you will be putting extra stress on axle shafts gears, etc, especially if you are fond of the skinny pedal. Yet another area to consider is gearing . . . what are you at now? Most recommend 4.88s or 5.13s with 35's . . . if you've got 3.73, it's probably going to be a dog.
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:51 AM   #9
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(waits for more info before getting further in depth)
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Old 09-28-2009, 02:15 PM   #10
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Simple- take off your lift you have now. Go buy a rockcrawler long arm kit will run you 3kish and it will be 6in and your done. Best way of doing it.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:50 PM   #11
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hmmmm

not so sure i want to spend another 3K, talk to guy at 4 wheel parts and he tells me i need 2" poly spacers, a new drive shaft with something, and adjustable something arms. spacers cost about $100 and then the drive line etc.. cost about $600 and then the arms cost about another $450, not so sure i even want to spend another $1500 on 2" worth of lift... might just have to stay with the 4"....
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:03 PM   #12
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not so sure i want to spend another 3K, talk to guy at 4 wheel parts and he tells me i need 2" poly spacers, a new drive shaft with something, and adjustable something arms. spacers cost about $100 and then the drive line etc.. cost about $600 and then the arms cost about another $450, not so sure i even want to spend another $1500 on 2" worth of lift... might just have to stay with the 4"....
Ummm....don't listen to 4 Wheel Parts.

That being said, the answer is quite simple, 6 inches of lift is too much for a short arm lift. Also, like others have said, you don't need 6 inches to clear 35's. If you really want to go to 6 inches you need to forget the short arm lift and go with a long arm and going long arm will cost a lot of coin.
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:11 PM   #13
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$475 ROKMEN 97-02 TJ/LJ High Clearance TT Skidplate + JKS MML, JKS BL

http://www.rokmen.com/products/skid_...elly_skid.html

$195 ROKMEN TJ/LJ Gas Tank Skidplate

http://www.rokmen.com/products/skid_...tank_skid.html

That is a pretty solid setup. But this is assuming you already have a SYE since you have yet to answer that question. THIS is all ya need to gain more room. Still more options like an engine skid too. I understand and feel same way about body lifts. Using a 1.25 BL is about standard for any GOOD belly pan. Her is an example of necessary evil. After you put on a 1.25 you will not even notice it. DO NOT go 2 inch body lift.
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:26 PM   #14
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Ummm....don't listen to 4 Wheel Parts.

That being said, the answer is quite simple, 6 inches of lift is too much for a short arm lift. Also, like others have said, you don't need 6 inches to clear 35's. If you really want to go to 6 inches you need to forget the short arm lift and go with a long arm and going long arm will cost a lot of coin.
X2. And . . . Ummm . . . don't let 4 Wheel Parts touch your Jeep either!!!

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i need 2" poly spacers, a new drive shaft with something, and adjustable something arms.
You're attention to detail is impressive Save your money and keep doing your research, it'll save you a lot of
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:31 PM   #15
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Listening to some idiot from 4 wheel parts is like asking someone at Walmart advice on your Jeep. Only the Walmart guy won't sell you some crap you don't need.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:48 PM   #16
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lift

to the best of my knowledge i dont have the Slip yoke E??
not sure what the "E" stands for, but i dont think i have it, maybe someone could post how to tell, but again i dont think i have it..

With this being said could someone tell me the best way to make this happen if i decide to go from 4" to 6" just want to keep it simple and not spend a ton of cash for another 2" so lets hear how you all would handle it???
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:53 PM   #17
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to the best of my knowledge i dont have the Slip yoke E??
not sure what the "E" stands for, but i dont think i have it, maybe someone could post how to tell, but again i dont think i have it..
The E stands for Eliminator...just snap few pics of the rear driveshaft and TC area and post them to see if you have one or not.

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Originally Posted by 288sunny View Post
With this being said could someone tell me the best way to make this happen if i decide to go from 4" to 6" just want to keep it simple and not spend a ton of cash for another 2" so lets hear how you all would handle it???
You will quickly learn that there is no way to "keep it simple and not spend a ton of cash"! You still haven't given us any specifics on the set up you currently have, but chances are if you don't want to just add a BL, you're going to need to whip out the check book or credit card. Although 2" doesn't seem like a lot, it is in this case and pretty much changes everything.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:16 AM   #18
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to the best of my knowledge i dont have the Slip yoke E??
not sure what the "E" stands for, but i dont think i have it, maybe someone could post how to tell, but again i dont think i have it..

With this being said could someone tell me the best way to make this happen if i decide to go from 4" to 6" just want to keep it simple and not spend a ton of cash for another 2" so lets hear how you all would handle it???
Here is the thing, to go to 6" your going to need a full set of adj control arms, vs the stock ones if you dont already have them. Also your going to need front and rear adj tack bars. Your going to need an SYE and new rear drive shaft. Figure 5-6 hundred for the SYE and shaft. and that or more for arms.. so where at 1k.. Now the fun part.

If your jeep drives great now, don't expect it to stay that way.. going to 6" on short arms can be great, bad, or in the middle.. you might get death wobble... thus if it was my jeep and everything was fine right now.. I would add a 1.25"-2" body lift and be happy.

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