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Old 01-11-2014, 11:53 AM   #1
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8.8 bracket setup? 170amp mig enough?

Picked up a cheap harbor freight 170amp mig welder for $169 today to mess around with and do light jobs now im wondering if i could tackle my 8.8 brackets with it. You guys think it will be enough?

Ill be using it with shielding gas not flux wire if that makes a difference. Also, my jeep does not see an abusive off road life, just trails and some mud.

How hard is it to setup the brackets and get them in the right place for the tj on the 8.8? i have the artec truss.

thanks guys!

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Old 01-11-2014, 12:27 PM   #2
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I just finished my 8.8 swap and I set up the brackets and tacked them on. I didn't have the confidence to weld them on, plus I just have a120 amp welder. The setup wasn't too bad I just measured the location of the brackets on the stock axle and mimicked them. I didn't have the article kit though, just .1875 in brackets. I think 170 amps is enough but check the rating on the welder for thickness. Some of your brackets are .25 right?

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Old 01-11-2014, 01:04 PM   #3
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Would this be the Chicago Electric one you can buy at Harbor Freight? The truss is 1/4" and the axle tubes are 3/16". Stitching the truss together is going to be at the upper limits of the welder.

I used a nice 220v MIG with the truss, not sure I would use anything smaller for this.
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Old 01-11-2014, 01:28 PM   #4
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as said, 170amps will be really pushing the duty cycle to the limit. you may not get adequate penetration, especially if you're not very experienced.
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Old 01-11-2014, 01:33 PM   #5
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I'd be more concerned with the person doing the welding than the welder itself. You could do with that welder, if you know how to weld. Even with a 220v welder won't do the job if you don't know how to do it.
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Old 01-11-2014, 02:15 PM   #6
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i'd be more concerned with the person doing the welding than the welder itself. You could do with that welder, if you know how to weld. Even with a 220v welder won't do the job if you don't know how to do it.
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Old 01-11-2014, 02:25 PM   #7
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as said, 170amps will be really pushing the duty cycle to the limit. you may not get adequate penetration, especially if you're not very experienced.
Duty cycle is a really god point. If it is the Chicago Electric it's only rated for 20% at 110 amps. The top plug welds for the truss will eat up this duty cycle.
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Old 01-11-2014, 02:52 PM   #8
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Well then its settled i won't even attempt to burn the in fully lol. Any forseable problems if I were to use it to tack the brackets on for test fitting and then take it to a more experienced welder to fully burn them in?

Wish I had the cash for a good welder like I use at work from time to time but who could pass up a good deal for a light duty unit lol
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:18 PM   #9
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but who could pass up a good deal for a light duty unit lol
I passed up such things plenty. Bought a used reman Hobart 140A 110V off craigslist at first, then sold it once I had enough to get a Millermatic 211 Autoset w/ Dual plugs (140A on 110V & 210A on 220V).

I paid more for the used Hobart than you did for the new HF junk, and sold that Hobart for almost what I paid for it. You can't go wrong with Hobart, Miller or Lincoln. Some like ESAB too. Anything else really isn't worth opening your wallet.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:18 PM   #10
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hmmmmm good advice lol how about a hobart handler 140? would that be enough for some 3/16 axle brackets? might sell this Mig to a friend ( ill loose a little but not much) if the used hobart 140 i found will do the trick with some preheating.

i know a 220 machine would be the absolute best but im trying hard to stick with a 115 machine until i can spend the 500+ to have someone run a 220 line the the shed where im working. i considered using a 220 8/3 extension cord run off our pool circuit but those buggers are expensive themselves........>
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:02 PM   #11
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The larger Miller and Hobart machines are dual voltage. Personally when I invest in a welder it will be a Millermatic 211 or Hobart Handler 210. Both can operate on either 110 or 220 with the quick change of the plug.

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