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97 TJ Battery Cables

7K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  E.Schrimsher 
#1 ·
I am having issues where my battery gauge jumps to 19. I pulled over and shut it off, but now it does not start. I was going to replace the battery cables but I can't find them. I even called the dealership and they said it was discontinued and they could not help me. Any help would be appreciated.

The manufacturers part # is #56009705.
 
#2 ·
Are you sure it's bad cables? Sounds like a bad voltage regulator in the PCM. That would also explain the lack of starting
 
#3 ·
Pull them off and go to the parts store... buy universal cables in the right length... you may have to splice body ground and pdc wires but just use good butt connectors and marine (glue lined) heat shrink or heat shrink butt connectors
 
#5 ·
I replaced the terminals and the issue went away for about a month. Then after a rainy day drive to work and after finishing my work day, I went out and it did not start. Hooked up some jumper cables and it struggled, but it did start. Then after about 3-5 seconds the battery gauge jumped to 19. I shut it off. Then tried to start it and it did nothing. Jumped it again (it struggled again to start) and rushed home with the battery gauge at 19. Luckily I only live 5 miles from work, so not a long time at a reading of 19. Any help is appreciated.

I will check some connections today.
 
#7 ·
Get a post and terminal cleaner and go to work on them. Nice and shiny. Its amazing what little corrosion can affect starting and voltage issues.
 
#8 ·
Yeah just went through this with mine the past couple weeks. Dash volt gauge would jump up to 19 intermittently. Mostly when there was a high amp draw, A/C on high. Gradually got worse through the days to where it would do it no matter what. When the dash gauge pegs out check it with a multimeter at the battery to confirm you have an actual over charge.

Since I've done some work on the charging system over the last few months I could rule out bad grounds, PCM voltage regulator (it's now an external VR), clean connections, Alternator (new a few months ago), even went as far as cleaning and tightening all the connections in the instrument cluster.

Turns out the battery was failing even though it started the Jeep just fine and held a good charge for days on end without running the engine.

So start with cleaning all your connections including grounds, as grounds is one of the contributors to an over charge condition, then get your battery load tested replace if needed . If that doesn't do it do the alternator test as described in the FSM. If that checks out then there's only one thing left, voltage regulator which is internal in the PCM.

There are alternatives to replacing the PCM if it does turn out to be the voltage regulator. https://alternatorparts.com/external-voltage-regulator-high-output-alternator-kit.html
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the help.
I plan to check connections today.
The only reason I think it might be the cables, is because if I wiggle or remove the positive cable, it starts sometimes, so I was thinking maybe it is corroded somewhere that I can't see (maybe inside the sheething or cable wrap?).
I have cleaned the battery posts and replaced the terminals, so I am hoping, it is just a bad connection somewhere.
If I end up replacing the cables, what gauge cable should I use?
 
#12 ·
4 ga will be fine... you could upgrade to 2 ga but not needed
 
#13 ·
I found a thin green wire that has separated at an old splice. It starts at another old splice in a yellow wire. The green wire the runs down an over towards the cab. The green wire the goes into the wall separating the cab from the engine. What is this wire and I sure hope this is the cause of my issues. 1st pic is where the green wire is seperated from itself. 2nd pic is where it starts at the old splice in the yellow wire. 3rd is where the yellow wire connects.
 

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#15 ·
Ain't no telling what previous owners have done. That looks like some kind of add on but hey if you're sure that where it all connects hook it up and see what happens.....

likely no real damage in that short of a distance.... then again anything is possible
 
#16 ·
i reconnected the green wire.
It did not start on its own.
Tried to jump it and it struggled to start but finally did. Seemed like it was going to shut off so a kept my foot on the gas pedal to keep it running. After a minute or two i let off the gas and it idled ok. The battery gauge stayed above 14 but did not shoot all the way to 19. I let it sit idling in the driveway for about 5 minutes and battery gauge stayed just above 14. Decided to do a test drive and I only got about 1/4 of a mile away and battery gauge jumped to 19 so turned around and went back to house. Shut it off in the driveway and then tried to start it again and it won't start.
Will wait until it cools down and go back to checking other connections.
 
#17 ·
Try charging the battery....I've figured out that anytime the alternator is putting out more than 14+/- volts the dash mounted volt gauge will peg out. When the battery is low or the there is a high amp draw the voltage regulator will ramp up the voltage/amperage to try and charge/maintain the battery voltage.
 
#18 ·
Had the battery tested and it was just ok. Old and and he said it should be replaced before winter, so I just replaced it now.
All connections other than that little green wire were good.
I took the alternator off and brought that over to be tested. It failed the test.
Replaced the alternator and so far everything seems good. Starts good and battery gauge is normal. Keeping my fingers crossed it stays this way.
Thanks for all the help. I'm not much of a mechanic and suggestions help me out big time. Thanks.
 
#19 ·
I just had the same thing happen to me. I took my battery to get tested which showed fine. I purchased new battery terminals and took off the negative cables from the engine along with the firewall. I cleaned them thoroughly then put it all back together. It cranked right up with the battery gauge back to normal.
 
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