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97 TJ won't slip in gear

1K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  ntjeffret214 
#1 ·
So my problem started a few months ago, it would grind when I would attempt to go into reverse even when I'd go into a forward gear. It eventually started affecting my forward gears, mainly 1st and 2nd, by resisting going into gear. It feels like theres a wall blocking it from going into gear and I'd have to pump the clutch to get it to slide in. The weird thing is is that sometimes it goes perfectly into gear without any problems but then other times I have to fight it. I changed out my trans fluid with 10w30 and it shifted perfect for about a month or two but it just recently went back to not wanting to go into gear. I thought it was my synchros going bad but I saw zero metal shavings when I changed the fluid. The clutch was also replaced 20,000 miles ago by the previous owner. So my next step is to replace the slave and master cylinder, I feel like there is air getting in my slave cylinder that is preventing my clutch from fulling engaging, while pumping the clutch is pushing it out. Which I feel like would explain the randomness of my transmission. Does this seem like it could solve my problem?
 
#2 ·
You could try Redline MTL or Redline MT90 tranny fluid for your AX5 - AX15, whichever you have. The MTL is a lighter weight more suitable for cold climates and the MT90 is supposed to work well for those in more temperate climates.

If that doesn't work, then I'd change out both master and slave cylinders for your clutch.
If and When your changing out that master cylinder, be mindful of the connector that your clutch pedal drives in - (it completes the connection for the starter, and is the reason why you must push the clutch pedal in to turn the ignition). It's a long plastic gizmo that's kind of tricky to snap off.
 
#4 ·
I think you're likely on the right track in thinking it's a hydraulic issue. My guess is that either the master or slave cylinder is intermittently allowing fluid to seep by the piston cup. This may be hard to diagnose for sure without replacing the hydraulic system. It would most likely appear to work normally if you pulled the slave and tried it because there wouldn't be sufficient pressure against the slave in a test.

If you decide to replace it, buy the master, slave and inter-connecting line prefilled and prebled as a unit.
 
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