HI all any help would be greatly appreciated. Here is my situation. I have a 99 Saharah manual trans. 4.0. I haven't had any issues with the clutch (many other problems but not the cluth haha). I have a short drive and barely put any miles on the jeep. I drove the jeep to work and back home the friday before last (approx 6 miles round trip) and then parked the jeep for a week as we left town for vacation. When i returned on Monday i tried to start the vehicle and it seemed as though the battery was low as it cranked slow but it also tried to walk forward like i was tryin to start it while in gear eventhough i had the clutch in. Last night when i finally had time to mess with it i cleaned up the battery terminals and cables (i have to do thsi often they get gunked up) and it started right up like i expected it to. As noted this has happened before so i expected to hop in and take it for a quick drive. When i try to put it in reverse it grinds and when i try any other gear it won't even go in. so after a few of these i check the master cylinder and it was full of fluid like it was suppose to be. then with the key in the off position i pushed down the clutch and took the jeep out of neutral and put it in first and tried to push the vehicle to see if it would move and it didn't it was obviously in gear. This whole thing has me so confused as it was fine before I left and hasn't moved in a week so i don't know how anything could break by sitting there. Is there a fuse or anything that could cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like it's clutch time to me. Either the throwout bearing or the pressure plate is toast. Both are part of the clutch assembly. The only real other possibilty is the hydraulics. Once that's ruled out, it's pull the transmission time.
I had a 99 Sahara and it did about the same thing. It turned out to be a bad slave cylinder. It was an easy afternoon fix. It could still turn out to be the clutch. Remove the lid on your clutch master cylinder, then remove the rubber baffle under the lid and make sure it's full of fluid.
how do i rule out the slave cylinder being or not being the problem? would these parts of the cluth go out like this especially when i haven't driven in a week? that is why i was leaning towards hydraulics. i did check the fluid and it seemed full but i didnt' see a baffle under the lid. There was a long triangle shaped thing that went down into the fluid from the bottom of the lid but i came out when i pulled the lid off is that what u were speaking of? I say it was full of fluid but now that i think of it it was probably about maybe an inch from the actual top of the plastic but i just assumed that was as full as it should be. is that incorrect?
Slave cylinder. It's an easy and relatively cheap fix. Sometimes they leak at the cylinder, sometimes they don't. Get a new one and be done w it. I bought mine about 8 years ago from AutoZone and haven't had any issues w it but lots of people on this site frown on the AutoZone parts... Shouldnt take u longer than an hour to replace
Once you remove the slave cylinder, with the e-brake on, you should be able to take a large screwdriver or bar and manually disengage the clutch by pushing against the throw out bearing arm (the part the slave cylinder pushes against), If it goes in really easy, or won't go in at all, then you have a clutch issue. If it goes in with some good pressure on it, then change out the slave cylinder.
no other tests thent o take off the slave cylinder? if i replace just that do i have to bleed it? is it easier to replace the master and slave all at once? if i replace both do i not have to bleed it?
You don't have to disconnect the hydraulic line to the slave to remove it to check. Simply get out a 13mm socket (I think) and rachet and take off the two nuts that hold it to the bell housing and lay it to the side. Make sure no one presses down on the clutch with it out or you will have a mess. It's not very likely that the master cylinder is bad. If the clutch is okay, I would start by just replacing the slave. Bleeding isn't hard...the directions will probably come with the slave cylinder. Similar to bleeding brakes.
Whether the problem is the slave cylinder or the clutch, the slave cylinder will have to be removed. (unless you plan on taking it to a shop)
Ok so I think it is the slave valve and I am going to take it off and replace... How do I get the hose from the master cylinder off of the slave?
Just checked my Haynes book. It says that master cylinder, slave, and connecting hydraulic line are serviced as an assembly and that if ones faulty, all must be changed as a unit since 1994. Sorry, didn't realize that.
So I got thebslave cylinder undone from beneath the jeep found out there is a little roll pin you punch out to get it out. Haven't done that yet. When looking under the dash at where the clutch is I saw on the end of the bar that moves inside the cab when you pusj the clutch in there was a black box with wires comeing out. Those wires weren't plugged in... could this be tge issue?