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Old 10-23-2012, 04:53 PM   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole View Post
Just get a Melling or Elgin and you'll be fine
Thanks for the info.
How important is it to degree in a new cam? I've rebuilt a 1/2 dozen or so ford and gm motors by just lining up the timing marks and putting #1 on TDC on the compression stroke and called it good. But I see on these TV shows these experts always talking about using a degree wheel on the cam. Can you enlighten me on this?

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Old 10-23-2012, 05:27 PM   #272
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Have you tried Isky and American Cam Grinding? If not I'll call them. It's been a while but I believe Isky is grinding 258 cams and I think American is still in business.

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Old 10-23-2012, 05:49 PM   #273
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This is a great threat, thank you!
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:13 PM   #274
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Have you tried Isky and American Cam Grinding? If not I'll call them. It's been a while but I believe Isky is grinding 258 cams and I think American is still in business.
What is a 258 cam?
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:17 PM   #275
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Have you tried Isky and American Cam Grinding? If not I'll call them. It's been a while but I believe Isky is grinding 258 cams and I think American is still in business.
I had forgot all about Isky. Love ther lifters.
Never heard of American.
Get in to that east coast, west coast thing. Im sure there is a lot of stuff over here y'all over there have never heard of. Same with me there is lots of stuff and company's over there I have never heard of.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:26 PM   #276
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I'm just thinking a stock core will not be hard enough to handle a roller lifter.

I have thought about groove then fill with weld.

Lol. I have also thought that I'm getting way out of hand with this. Lol

Would really like to know if it could be done.
I have seen that 505 has rollers but if there isn't any steel cores they must be using cast ones
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:31 PM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdave

What is a 258 cam?
I'm sure he is talking about the 258 engine.
It was the inline 6cyl before the 4.0 (242)
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:17 PM   #278
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I'm sure he is talking about the 258 engine.
It was the inline 6cyl before the 4.0 (242)
Thats what I kind of thought, but wasn't sure. Mine is a 91 which is the first year after the renix motors I believe.
Tailhole did you see my question earlier about the degreeing of cams?
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:36 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdave

Thats what I kind of thought, but wasn't sure. Mine is a 91 which is the first year after the renix motors I believe.
Tailhole did you see my question earlier about the degreeing of cams?
I would. Sure not going to hurt any thing.
Most the time tho. Your not going to get any cam spec with a stock cam.
I have to look it up in the back of the catalog. And then it's still not listed.

I haven't had any trouble with stock stuff by just lining the marks up.
You can spend a lot of money getting set up to degree a cam in.
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:40 AM   #280
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Subscribed. Building a 4.7 right now, care if I get a few questions in for the all knowing?
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:38 AM   #281
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I would. Sure not going to hurt any thing.
Most the time tho. Your not going to get any cam spec with a stock cam.
I have to look it up in the back of the catalog. And then it's still not listed.

I haven't had any trouble with stock stuff by just lining the marks up.
You can spend a lot of money getting set up to degree a cam in.
So basically they are degreeing in a performance grind cam that is something other than stock, correct? That makes more sense to me now.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:23 AM   #282
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When degree'n a cam your making sure the cam and piston are working together.

Best thing is to look it up and read about it. There is no way I could try to explain it on here.
I don't fully understand all of it my self.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:39 AM   #283
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This is what a cam card looks like.
Is really the same as every ones else's card.
When the cam is installed to these spec this is how it will perform. You can see that it ground on 108 with the intake center line on 104. Which means its got 4 degrees advance ground in it.
And if it has been ground correctly the intake opening and closing will be as printed. (26.5 before top dead center and closing 54.5 after bottom dead center)

So if you add 26.5+54.5+180= 261.

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Old 10-25-2012, 07:27 AM   #284
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Thanks for the info thats great.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:42 PM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole
When degree'n a cam your making sure the cam and piston are working together.

Best thing is to look it up and read about it. There is no way I could try to explain it on here.
I don't fully understand all of it my self.
CompCams has a really good "how to" online that I printed and will use.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:58 PM   #286
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I put the rockers on this morning and looks like the new cam lift may cause coil bind ...aka... bottom out (compress more than they can compress by design) the springs.

Just by turning it by hand it appears to be FULLY compressing the valve spring at max lift.

I can't tell if I really need more room. Or if they are just maxed out. I will probably have more time this weekend to really measure everything...

What's the mechanical differences between using shims and using shorter push rods?
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:53 PM   #287
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If you can get a .060 feeler gauge between the coils your fine. But you shouldn't be coil binding.

On the push rods you should need a longer one if anything.

Feel free to call me tomorrow or this weekend. And I will try to walk you through it
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:30 PM   #288
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You might check with Isky. They were doing the Hard Face Overlay on your core cams. Basically a welded stock cam with a hard weld wear surface. Worked pretty good on Hi lift square profile short track cams for motors you could not get billet cores for. Not so good for High V/S pressures or RPM's because of the soft core. But for a 6000 rpm 6 it might work out. And check out their new No needle roller, pressure fed bushed roller tappet.
Here ya go for a link.
http://www.iskycams.com
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:52 PM   #289
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Wasn't it shobeck (I know the spelling is wrong) that was doing that years back.

You know what's funny that you mentioned hard cast over lay.
I had bought a kit a while back and ended up using it up on lawn mower blades.
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:18 AM   #290
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Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts
A few have. This link is WebCam. They did my motorcycle cams for my Suzuki. They can do car cams also. You can even change lobe spread somewhat with this as well as intake/exhaust centerlines and asymmetrical or inverse lobe profiles. Mine was given a max curve. Only added 4 degrees at .050 but 10 at .200. Also went from 116 l/s to 105 l/s. 99 intake C/L. Anymore and the bucket dug into the lobe. Bumped it from 95 to 119 at the rear wheel with no loss of bottom end torque. Topped 167@7200 RWHP out of an 1800 cc V-twin. There was a lot more left in there. The valves almost kissed at split overlap. 4 valve pent roof. Anyway talk to them. Their nice guys.
Bob
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:12 PM   #291
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It's ALIVE....

It's all together and running strong!!!!

The camshaft was the problem.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:19 PM   #292
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Yeeeeehaaa We need pics and videos.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:24 PM   #293
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Good to hear. Glad it all worked out.
It's been a long time coming. I bet your ready to ride. I need to get to work on mine now.

I did start polishing the beams on some stock rods tonight. Going to see how that turns out.
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Old 11-21-2012, 03:44 PM   #294
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Good to hear. Glad it all worked out.
It's been a long time coming. I bet your ready to ride. I need to get to work on mine now.

I did start polishing the beams on some stock rods tonight. Going to see how that turns out.
Yours is going to be super custom and expensive with all the work you are doing.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:53 AM   #295
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Attachment 8595

Here is the cam card from mine. It produces solid power and has enough duration to bleed off the compression that was causing my issues.


sent in the midst of ...
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:54 AM   #296
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Attachment didn't work the first time

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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:49 PM   #297
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Glad you found out what the problem was. You learned a lot along the way. Congrats on becoming an engine builder. Tailhole should be a proud papa. This was a fun read and I hope it continues with the rest of his motor.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:58 PM   #298
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So it runs good and feels strong?

Does it feel worth all the trouble?
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:10 PM   #299
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So it runs good and feels strong?

Does it feel worth all the trouble?
I will have to see what the dyno says to determine whether it was worth the added cost, time and frustration.
Although I realize this could have been way easier and taken far less time had I picked the right engine builder to start with.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:10 PM   #300
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Well I didn't want to go Christmas shopping. So I took a stock set of rods and polished the beams and reworked them with some ARP bolts.
Turned out pretty nice.

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Stock



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Super stock

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