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Old 12-10-2012, 02:40 PM   #301
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Lol... Good thinking looks nice!

I am still envious of your shop and skills!!

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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:23 PM   #302
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[QUOTE=tailhole;3087527]Well I didn't want to go Christmas shopping. So I took a stock set of rods and polished the beams and reworked them with some ARP bolts.
Turned out pretty nice.

Attachment 186266

Stock



Attachment 186267

How did you go about doing that?

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Old 12-10-2012, 10:17 PM   #303
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50 grit, then 80 then a wore out 80, on a drum sander.
Then 120 cartridge rolls on a die grinder.
Then about 15 min in the shot blaster.
And finished it up in the glass bead cabinet.

Used a hammer on the old bolts, and a arbor press to install the new ones.

Then reworked them.

I think they turned out pretty cool.
I haven't done any Rods like that in many many years.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:38 PM   #304
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Takes a lot of work to make a silk purse outa that sows ear. Looks nice and should handle lots of go. Please don't stop showing what your doing. It is my lone performance motor fix on the forum.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:11 PM   #305
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I'm just slowly working on the motor on some spare time.
I have done screwed up 2 cranks. Not really junk, just not going to be able to use a cheep piston and rod. ( offset ground it .090 and down to 2in journal) the plan was going to use small journal 6in Chevy rod
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:04 AM   #306
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My crank and rods have already been balanced and reconditioned, would it be worth it to have them deburred and polished and do you think it would need balanced after that? I've also been wondering if there's any way to tell if the machine shop ACTUALLY shot peened and magnafluxed your parts?
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:44 AM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole View Post
50 grit, then 80 then a wore out 80, on a drum sander.
Then 120 cartridge rolls on a die grinder.
Then about 15 min in the shot blaster.
And finished it up in the glass bead cabinet.

Used a hammer on the old bolts, and a arbor press to install the new ones.

Then reworked them.

I think they turned out pretty cool.
I haven't done any Rods like that in many many years.
Is there a real advantage to doing that?
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:53 AM   #308
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Idk. Some say it does.

Me? I think it's a pretty stock rod. No mater what I do to it, it's still a stock rod.

I do like a better bolt and think it helps
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:31 AM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97wrangler-242
My crank and rods have already been balanced and reconditioned, would it be worth it to have them deburred and polished and do you think it would need balanced after that? I've also been wondering if there's any way to tell if the machine shop ACTUALLY shot peened and magnafluxed your parts?
No I really think it would be worth it.
Yes to be right it would have to be rebalanced.

It's a dust used to mag the crank, so you can't tell.
Shot blast will leave a rough texture. And on the crank about the only place you'll tell is on the snout. That's if they didn't cover it.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:50 PM   #310
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This is from a race rod salesman's point of view. Polishing first removes surface inclusions and stress risers. These are places where surface cracks start and propagate from there. That is a very good thing. Shot peening after compacts the surface structure and makes it more dense also improving the rods fatigue strength. The only thing about doing them after you have rebuilt them is you would have to have them resized again unless you could keep the bearing and pin surfaces covered so they did not get compacted by the shot.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:07 PM   #311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole

No I really think it would be worth it.
Yes to be right it would have to be rebalanced.

It's a dust used to mag the crank, so you can't tell.
Shot blast will leave a rough texture. And on the crank about the only place you'll tell is on the snout. That's if they didn't cover it.
So you think it is worth the extra money? I was thinking of it like what gunner below had mentioned below about removing stress risers because I've always been told the cracks start around places that aren't smooth from the way it was cast.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
This is from a race rod salesman's point of view. Polishing first removes surface inclusions and stress risers. These are places where surface cracks start and propagate from there. That is a very good thing. Shot peening after compacts the surface structure and makes it more dense also improving the rods fatigue strength. The only thing about doing them after you have rebuilt them is you would have to have them resized again unless you could keep the bearing and pin surfaces covered so they did not get compacted by the shot.
My rods have already been shot and resized so if I had them only deburred and polished would it REQUIRE shot peening again?
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:34 PM   #312
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Update on mine...

Took it on a 50 mile drive. First long drive I have taken it on because I didn't trust it yet and didn't want to get stranded. I was listening to it the other day driving by a really long wood fence that is right up against the road, and thought it was slightly detonating in 2nd gear with light throttle. I used the fence to bounce the sound off so I could hear it better (works great if you want to listen to your engine).

Well, this drive confirmed it... It is still detonating. And its doing it bad under load. About 3/4 throttle and it starts clattering and sounding like you are shaking around a trash bag full of aluminum cans.

There is a video on YouTube where the guy has audio of it and that's exactly what mine sounds like. I will see if I can either get good audio of mine or post that link.

I think I am done with it. I am going to start looking for another engine or a stock crank and rods and pistons and build it back to stock. I'm tired of dropping $$ on it, and not getting to enjoy it. I don't know what could be wrong and don't have a reputable builder around here that I trust to have them look into. That would probably cost another arm and leg anyway.

If I go back to stock, and really want more power, I have seen a turbo kit you can add to the 4.0 that you just bolt onto the intake manifold.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:25 PM   #313
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Here a pix of the older cam bolt.

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Old 12-19-2012, 09:43 PM   #314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsfun00
Update on mine...

Took it on a 50 mile drive. First long drive I have taken it on because I didn't trust it yet and didn't want to get stranded. I was listening to it the other day driving by a really long wood fence that is right up against the road, and thought it was slightly detonating in 2nd gear with light throttle. I used the fence to bounce the sound off so I could hear it better (works great if you want to listen to your engine).

Well, this drive confirmed it... It is still detonating. And its doing it bad under load. About 3/4 throttle and it starts clattering and sounding like you are shaking around a trash bag full of aluminum cans.

There is a video on YouTube where the guy has audio of it and that's exactly what mine sounds like. I will see if I can either get good audio of mine or post that link.

I think I am done with it. I am going to start looking for another engine or a stock crank and rods and pistons and build it back to stock. I'm tired of dropping $$ on it, and not getting to enjoy it. I don't know what could be wrong and don't have a reputable builder around here that I trust to have them look into. That would probably cost another arm and leg anyway.

If I go back to stock, and really want more power, I have seen a turbo kit you can add to the 4.0 that you just bolt onto the intake manifold.
Dang dude. What the hell?
Someone has put a hex on that motor or somum.
What kind of cyl pressure do you have now?
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:57 PM   #315
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Fuel rail pressure? Needs a dyno run with a fuel sensor in the pipe and a timing light during loading.
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:01 PM   #316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97wrangler-242 View Post
So you think it is worth the extra money? I was thinking of it like what gunner below had mentioned below about removing stress risers because I've always been told the cracks start around places that aren't smooth from the way it was cast.



My rods have already been shot and resized so if I had them only deburred and polished would it REQUIRE shot peening again?
If you polish away the dimples you have removed the surface compaction. I would not do it. Shot peening is fine for a mostly stock rpm range. I'd rather shot peen than polish if I had to chose one or the other.
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:36 AM   #317
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Alright, thank you. Are there any major do's or donts when building these 4.0s, especially with cam selection?
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:09 PM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsfun00 View Post
Update on mine...

Took it on a 50 mile drive. First long drive I have taken it on because I didn't trust it yet and didn't want to get stranded. I was listening to it the other day driving by a really long wood fence that is right up against the road, and thought it was slightly detonating in 2nd gear with light throttle. I used the fence to bounce the sound off so I could hear it better (works great if you want to listen to your engine).

Well, this drive confirmed it... It is still detonating. And its doing it bad under load. About 3/4 throttle and it starts clattering and sounding like you are shaking around a trash bag full of aluminum cans.

There is a video on YouTube where the guy has audio of it and that's exactly what mine sounds like. I will see if I can either get good audio of mine or post that link.

I think I am done with it. I am going to start looking for another engine or a stock crank and rods and pistons and build it back to stock. I'm tired of dropping $$ on it, and not getting to enjoy it. I don't know what could be wrong and don't have a reputable builder around here that I trust to have them look into. That would probably cost another arm and leg anyway.

If I go back to stock, and really want more power, I have seen a turbo kit you can add to the 4.0 that you just bolt onto the intake manifold.
Your cam card lists specs with 1.6 rockers. Do you have 1.6 or 1.5? I forgot which you have. With 1.5 the cam will act smaller and build more cylinder pressure. Just a thought.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:26 PM   #319
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1.6 is stock
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:13 PM   #320
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Great thread. So tailhole, for your personal Jeep would you go 3.8 or 4.0? Which do you think is the better overall engine?
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:50 AM   #321
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What's the cranking pressure now?
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:32 AM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 TJX
Great thread. So tailhole, for your personal Jeep would you go 3.8 or 4.0? Which do you think is the better overall engine?
Hard to beat the 4.0
Both are good engines tho
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:23 PM   #323
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Sorry, I haven responded.

I have an appointment next week to get it on a dyno. I will post up everything I get from that. Graphs and everything.

I haven't checked the cranking pressure, will do that today. Along with another fuel rail pressure check.

It smells like it is running really rich. The dyno test will tell alot more.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:37 AM   #324
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Thought a post a pix of the older rear seal.

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And the cap



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Old 02-06-2013, 10:54 PM   #325
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Got the crank done.
Ended up getting a extra .012 stroke
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:54 PM   #326
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:32 PM   #327
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4.0 engine question

Firts i would like to tell you.....great job on the documentation of the rebuild. It looks great. Secondly i would like your pro opinion on a current problem I'm experiencing with my 4.0 engine in my 1999 xj. I got this jeep two years a go with 38k only. It had been sitting at a state police inpoud in michigan for 8 years. I had to rebuild the engine due to issues it had developed by just sitting in the lot. The knuckle head tha did the rebuild must have f..ked something up.

Im hearing a slight knock at cold startup only. The knock is not there emmediately it creeps in about 30 to 40 seconds after i fire it up and then it slowly dissipates and eventually dissapears. I've tried replacing the oil filter with mobile 1 and wix but still have the same problem. I tried lucas engine oil stabilizer, marvel mistery oil....all in vain. Running out of options here.....need guidance.

Thanks
Mauro
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:59 PM   #328
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Was it rebuilt or just freshened up?
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:10 PM   #329
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Rebuild

It was a rebuild at least that is what I paid for. One thing I noticed was that the engine was re-painted. I'm now getting a bit paranoid thinking he might have gotten a junkyard engine, painted it and dropped it in. Hard for me to prove unless there is a way to identify an engine to a vin match.

I know that if a rebuild is performed correctly I should not be having this problem.

I'm kind of bogged down by the whole thing. I paid $2200 for it and stupidly enough did not ask for receipts on all new parts used and the labor warranty has run out. This is what you get for being honest and trustworthy.


Any info is appreciated.

Thanks
mauro
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:57 PM   #330
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Looks like the intake could use a little help.
The scribe mark is the intake gasket size.



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