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Old 09-09-2012, 09:52 AM   #211
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Tailhole. Do you use a regular smooth sleeve with the bottom step or can you deck step sleeve the 4.0. From the posted pictures is looks pretty close to water for a deck step. Just wondering what you use and would there be room.
Thanks
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:56 PM   #212
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Maybe that's what's wrong. I thought I told my wife to pay that awhile back. Is there a place on the sight to pay? Or do I need to get ahold of a certain person?

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Old 09-09-2012, 05:59 PM   #213
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Go to user CP Top left of the screen then go to paid subscriptions. Thats where you do it.
Bob
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:10 PM   #214
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I normally use just a regular sleeve and leave a step on the bottom. There has been certain times that I machine a step on top. And then there is the race motors that take all step sleeves.
I like them to stick up a little, so I normally deck the block with the sleeves in the block then take the sleeves out and cut the block again so when I put the sleeves back in there sticking up .005-.007
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:11 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
Go to user CP Top left of the screen then go to paid subscriptions. Thats where you do it.
Bob
Thanks, I will try that
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:23 PM   #216
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I'm going to do the long rod version.
I have a crank that I offset ground a little got .006 more stroke.
I also have one that that I'm really going to offset but I can't find any .040 bearings and not really wanting to weld it up. Probably just going to use the first one and be happy with it.

I talked to tommy the other day, I want to see what he can do with a stock cam core too.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:56 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole
I also have one that that I'm really going to offset but I can't find any .040 bearings and not really wanting to weld it up.
Have you looked on the jeepstrokers site? Some good info / places to source hard to find parts on there.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:37 PM   #218
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I have looked there a little. But a have problem with A.D.D.
And I seem to like to do things the hard way.
And like to try things, out of the normal, like, sleeve all the holes, bore it to 4in, add .125 to the crank, some 300 ford rods,

For some reason I open my mouth and get into stuff like that. I have managed to stroke about every engine out there.
Nissan 280z to 3.4
409 to 468
Ford 312 to 335
AMC 409 to 426
Ford 351w to 458
Flat head fords
Every Chevy combo
You get the idea

The biggest problem I have is what's needed to do to make fool infection work
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:51 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole View Post

Hows the port job coming along?
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:10 PM   #220
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Hows the port job coming along?
I have the runners roughed in might get to work on it in the morning.
I bought a new mower and been playing with it after I get home. It's bad a$$.
It will mow at 12mph. Lol

Not really want to go to town this weekend.
Texas longhorns are here playing ole miss.
And it's nuts here.

Dang. I for got to pay my dues again.
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:23 AM   #221
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:25 AM   #222
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:31 AM   #223
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That's all the pix i have, i will try to get some more tomorrow
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:58 PM   #224
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Didn't get to work on the head any this weekend, helped a friend put a lift and gears, sye and sway bar on his jeep

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But I took some more pix.
Still just roughed in runners



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Old 09-17-2012, 01:21 PM   #225
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When I said I work on every thing.
This is a pix of the assembly room


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48 flathead ford
04 duramax
77 360 Amc
58 f head jeep
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:46 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole
When I said I work on every thing.
This is a pix of the assembly room

48 flathead ford
04 duramax
77 360 Amc
58 f head jeep
That's cool. I've never seen a flathead block stripped down like that.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:55 PM   #227
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Quick question. Are the timing marks supposed to be lined up like the pic (cam at 1 and crank at 1) or are they supposed to be facing each other (cam at 6 and crank at 12) ??

This pic is how they were alligned before I removed it. I am just wondering if it was assembled right or off by 90* from the start.


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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #228
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Lol... I think I just had a brain issue...

Correct me if I am wrong...

The cam moves at 1/2 the speed of the crank, so on every other rotation they will be right next to each other (cam at 6 o'clock and crank at 12 o'clock).
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:50 AM   #229
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Nope your right. TDCC and TDCE both line up 180 apart.
Heads coming out nice btw.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:16 PM   #230
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Line up the dots. Makes it easer to time. But your actually timing on number 6 firing.
But that's fine just make sure you time your ignition on number 1 firing.
All motors have two pistons at TDC at one time. (except, 3 cyl, 5 cyl, and rotarys)
The cam controls which cyl is on compression. So yes, you could but the cam in 180 from the crank and still be in time.

Note: this does not work on all engines
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:27 PM   #231
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Quote:
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When I said I work on every thing.
This is a pix of the assembly room


Attachment 161046

48 flathead ford
04 duramax
77 360 Amc
58 f head jeep
Which one? The 4 banger?
That's a f head jeep, it's only half a flat head.
The ex valves are in the block and the intake valves are in the head.
The L head had the both valves in the block.
You'd think jeep would have named that one f head???

The engine in front (or behind) is a flat head ford. Which I think is the coolest engine ever built.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:14 PM   #232
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Got a chance to "think" about this head I'm working on.
And thought about putting larger valves in it.
Started looking at valves, and looks like valves out of a GM LS engine will work out. Dodge Hemi looks good too.

Not sure if this has been posted on the web or not. If it has, does any one have any input?
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:55 AM   #233
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Bingo here ya go. You were right on. It is LS1 valves.
Maize Kustoms - Jeep 4.0L to 4.6 Stroker Build
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:05 AM   #234
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Bingo here ya go. You were right on. It is LS1 valves.
Maize Kustoms - Jeep 4.0L to 4.6 Stroker Build
Well, um. Yea. I think I'm going a little different route.
That guy ever get that built and running?
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:59 PM   #235
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Thread says yes but not much power. Just posted it because of the LS1 valves he used. Golen makes 270hp and passes smog. You ought to do much better than that, after what you told me you do there.
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:39 PM   #236
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I did some measuring and the cross sectional area and valve size is about right as it is.
I'm thinking about just doing a good 5 angle valve job and use stock size valves.
But my mind changes by the hour.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:14 AM   #237
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I'd rather have 300 lb/ft from 1500 to 3000 than 270 hp @ 5500 in a jeep that might never see that rpm except for mud. Trading velocity for peak flow usually makes for a lazy motor. 5 angle with backcut 1.94 x 1.6 or 1.5 would make more sense in a torquer 6. But then I have never looked into the ports so I am only going off generalities. Oh yeah one other thing we found is 30 degree seats on .450 lift motors made more total airflow under the curve with more velocity. IE smaller hole. The 30 seat opens the curtain wider sooner.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:24 AM   #238
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:35 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
I'd rather have 300 lb/ft from 1500 to 3000 than 270 hp @ 5500 in a jeep that might never see that rpm except for mud. Trading velocity for peak flow usually makes for a lazy motor. 5 angle with backcut 1.94 x 1.6 or 1.5 would make more sense in a torquer 6. But then I have never looked into the ports so I am only going off generalities. Oh yeah one other thing we found is 30 degree seats on .450 lift motors made more total airflow under the curve with more velocity. IE smaller hole. The 30 seat opens the curtain wider sooner.
You right on with the 30d seat. And I have thought about that.
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:41 AM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
I'd rather have 300 lb/ft from 1500 to 3000 than 270 hp @ 5500 in a jeep that might never see that rpm except for mud. Trading velocity for peak flow usually makes for a lazy motor. 5 angle with backcut 1.94 x 1.6 or 1.5 would make more sense in a torquer 6. But then I have never looked into the ports so I am only going off generalities. Oh yeah one other thing we found is 30 degree seats on .450 lift motors made more total airflow under the curve with more velocity. IE smaller hole. The 30 seat opens the curtain wider sooner.
Thats the trick, keep the port small and the air big.
Thats one thing I read in that thread, he did a trumpet shape port. And he said "to slow the air down" and that is what happend.

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