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Old 06-19-2013, 04:38 PM   #1
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So I have a 2001 4.0 Automatic TJ. The A/C has not been blowing cold, and the nearly 100° temperatures here in Dallas have been killing me. Not being a car expert, I'm not really sure where the AC compressor is under the hood. What it seems to me is that it is right under the power steering pump. If I am correct, the belt is not moving, and I'm guessing this is why the AC isn't working . Does this sound correct? Any expertise would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 06-19-2013, 04:52 PM   #2
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Ummmm if that belt is not turning you have worse issues than the A/C. Are you 100% certain that the belt does not turn at all when the engine is running?

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Old 06-19-2013, 04:58 PM   #3
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Maybe he means the clutch on the AC compressor is not moving?


This could prove interesting.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:59 PM   #4
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Maybe he means the clutch on the AC compressor is not moving?

This could prove interesting.
I hope that's the case.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:04 PM   #5
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This time when I turned it on the belt started running...so I guess that's not my issue. If the belt is running, how can I tell if the compressor is working or not?
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #6
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This time when I turned it on the belt started running...so I guess that's not my issue. If the belt is running, how can I tell if the compressor is working or not?
The front of the compressor will spin if it is engaging.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:22 PM   #7
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The front of the compressor will spin if it is engaging.
So if this is spinning, the compressor is engaging?

I appreciate the assistance.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:26 PM   #8
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No that's the normal pulleys. The compressor is all the way to the left Topside of the engine looking in. If the very front piece is spinning then it is engaging.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:30 PM   #9
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:37 PM   #10
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No that's the normal pulleys. The compressor is all the way to the left Topside of the engine looking in. If the very front piece is spinning then it is engaging.
Left side too is leading me to this...am I right now?

Thanks again
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:44 PM   #11
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Left side too is leading me to this...am I right now?

Thanks again
That's the alternator, if you meant the pulley in the middle, you had it right the first time. The center portion of that must turn in order for the compressor to work. It is switched so it will cycle on and off. Open your door or windows and set the ac to max on the highest speed. If it goes on and off, on and off quickly, in other words, doesn't stay engaged for a while, you're probably low on freon. It should stay engaged.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:45 PM   #12
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Left side too is leading me to this...am I right now?

Thanks again
No, thats the alternator, follow the black hose in your pic, it will lead to the compressor.
Not to question your mechanical skills but you really need to have a buddy with some car repair skills to help you with this or take it in to a shop. There are alot of components of the HVAC system that would stump most of us on WF.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:53 PM   #13
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That's the alternator, if you meant the pulley in the middle, you had it right the first time. The center portion of that must turn in order for the compressor to work. It is switched so it will cycle on and off. Open your door or windows and set the ac to max on the highest speed. If it goes on and off, on and off quickly, in other words, doesn't stay engaged for a while, you're probably low on freon. It should stay engaged.
So this black piece should be spinning?
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:57 PM   #14
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No, thats the alternator, follow the black hose in your pic, it will lead to the compressor. Not to question your mechanical skills but you really need to have a buddy with some car repair skills to help you with this or take it in to a shop. There are alot of components of the HVAC system that would stump most of us on WF.
Oh don't doubt it, I'm taking it to the shop for sure hahaha, I just wanted to make sure it wasn't an easy fix that would save me some money
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:58 PM   #15
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So this black piece should be spinning?
Yes with the A/C on and ambient temp high enough which I'm sure it is in Texas.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:01 PM   #16
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Yes with the A/C on and ambient temp high enough which I'm sure it is in Texas.
Well I guess that's my problem. That hasn't spun at all and I'm running max ac with both doors open in the 90°-95° heat. I'll take it to a shop somewhere and get it all sorted out. Thanks a bunch to everyone who helped me troubleshoot.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:31 PM   #17
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So I guess the next question is will replacing the ac compressor as a whole fix the situation? Or is it something on a larger or smaller scale?
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:41 PM   #18
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So I guess the next question is will replacing the ac compressor as a whole fix the situation? Or is it something on a larger or smaller scale?
Could be a lot of different things. Have it checked out by a shop
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:44 PM   #19
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If the compressor is not coming on at all or is shutting on and off most likely just needs to be charged (doesn't have enough refrigerant) just did it in shop today on my jeep, it's very simple.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:55 PM   #20
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Wonder how many pictures it'll take to find the low side connection?
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:59 PM   #21
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Wonder how many pictures it'll take to find the low side connection?
Don't worry, I won't even try
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:23 PM   #22
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I just had my A/C fixed. Here's what I found out along the way.

1. If the A/C clutch does not engage at all you may be totally out of refrigerant. Apparently the system is smart enough to not burn up your compressor by trying to cycle it on and off without refrigerant. This was the case with my system.
2. If you charge your system aka adding refrigerant (like the kind you buy at Walmart or Auto Parts store) to the low pressure side of the system you may get your compressor going for a period of time. This is what I did and temporarily had cold air.
3. If you have a really slow leak you may get weeks or months out of a charge. For my situation I got 3 days so I had a pretty big leak.
4. Plan on paying about $75 plus the cost of refrigerant plus the cost of dye to add to the system for the shop to find the leak.
5. My leak was in the condenser and it cost $433 to replace it and get the system up and working again. If it had been the compressor I am sure it would have been double that.

Good Luck
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:31 PM   #23
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I just had my A/C fixed. Here's what I found out along the way.

1. If the A/C clutch does not engage at all you may be totally out of refrigerant. Apparently the system is smart enough to not burn up your compressor by trying to cycle it on and off without refrigerant. This was the case with my system.
2. If you charge your system aka adding refrigerant (like the kind you buy at Walmart or Auto Parts store) to the low pressure side of the system you may get your compressor going for a period of time. This is what I did and temporarily had cold air.
3. If you have a really slow leak you may get weeks or months out of a charge. For my situation I got 3 days so I had a pretty big leak.
4. Plan on paying about $75 plus the cost of refrigerant plus the cost of dye to add to the system for the shop to find the leak.
5. My leak was in the condenser and it cost $433 to replace it and get the system up and working again. If it had been the compressor I am sure it would have been double that.

Good Luck
That's all true, I would never do any of those Walmart bottle refrigerant things, especially the ones that come with a "sealer" to help stop leaks, because they ruin the machines that actually recover, boil out any moisture that's built up while your refrigerant was low, and then charge your system.
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Old 06-20-2013, 02:13 AM   #24
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I just had my A/C fixed. Here's what I found out along the way. 1. If the A/C clutch does not engage at all you may be totally out of refrigerant. Apparently the system is smart enough to not burn up your compressor by trying to cycle it on and off without refrigerant. This was the case with my system. 2. If you charge your system aka adding refrigerant (like the kind you buy at Walmart or Auto Parts store) to the low pressure side of the system you may get your compressor going for a period of time. This is what I did and temporarily had cold air. 3. If you have a really slow leak you may get weeks or months out of a charge. For my situation I got 3 days so I had a pretty big leak. 4. Plan on paying about $75 plus the cost of refrigerant plus the cost of dye to add to the system for the shop to find the leak. 5. My leak was in the condenser and it cost $433 to replace it and get the system up and working again. If it had been the compressor I am sure it would have been double that. Good Luck
Thanks for the advice. I'm getting it checked out in a few days
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #25
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Thanks for your postings on this thread. I've got the same issue withy 2000 TJ Sahara (A/C not cooling). Will have that checked by a shop as well.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:20 PM   #26
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Well I added some freon. And now the compressor engages. But only for 2-3 seconds. Then it stays for for another 5-10 seconds. And repeats. The gauge on the freon says it's at about 50-55 psi when it kicks in for those 2-3 seconds. But then it drops all the way down. The 50-55 psi is close to the "red zone" on the gauge, which is says not to enter. Do y'all know what I should do?
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:33 PM   #27
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Your AC pressures should read approx 25psi on the low side and 225psi on the high side. Your system operates on a pressure cycling system to avoid damage and evaporator freezing the low pressure switch cycles the compressor clutch off when the lo pressure reaches approx 18-20psi. It will re-engage the AC clutch when the pressure rises above that.
I'm guessing your using a "Top-off" kit that only has a low pressure gauge? If so your seeing normal operation and need to add a little more Freon.

Be careful the AC system contains hi pressures and Freon which can freeze burn your skin, eyes etc.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:56 PM   #28
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There's a pressure switch in the system that will not engage the AC compressor clutch if the pressure is low enough. If your TJ didn't have this feature, when you are low 134a, the compressor would continually cycle on/off. This kind of repetitious on/off duty cycle is hard on the compressor. Worse yet, if enough oil has atomized and escaped with the leak, then the compressor would cycle on/off and could cause internal damage to itself. For now, you can probably assume it is good that the compressor is not cycling at all.

The most likely cause is that you've got a leak in the AC system. This happens ALL THE TIME to many many vehicles. In my personal experience lots of leaks happen at the schraeder valves on the systems high/low pressure lines.

Here's sort of the bottom line as I see it... You could pump your system up with a couple cans of 134a from your local autoparts store and get a dye test kit (linky) and black light it to see where the issue lies.

The problem here is that you don't know how much oil is still in the system so even if you got it functioning again, you may have way too much oil in the system and plug up the orifice tube. OR you could get too little and shorten the life of the air compressor pump...

If you want to do it right, it would be a good idea to actually take it to an HVAC shop. The thing they have that most guys do not, is a pump that removes and captures your "freon" (actually 134a) and captures the oil in a separate bottle. When they refill your system they should check how much PAG oil you need and either make it up, or remove some before recharging your system. Plus they have more sophisticated tech for checking for leaks --"sniffers" that beep like a geiger counter when exposed to escaping freon. Plus a reputable location will guarantee or warrantee their work for a period of time.

Most Jeep stuff is completely home fixable, but IMHO this is one case where it's definitely ok to outsource the work so it is done right.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:02 PM   #29
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Update: I can't get the compressor to stay engaged. It starts then stops. I can't read the pressure unless the compressor stays engaged. How could I get it to stay engaged? If this is past my novice skill set, I can take it to a shop somewhere and let them deal with it. Thanks for all the help, y'all
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:25 PM   #30
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Update: I can't get the compressor to stay engaged. It starts then stops. I can't read the pressure unless the compressor stays engaged. How could I get it to stay engaged? If this is past my novice skill set, I can take it to a shop somewhere and let them deal with it. Thanks for all the help, y'all
If you haven't added freon then I'd take a wild guess and say that you're still low.

I used to add some until it stayed engaged long enough to check the pressure. This is, of course, if you haven't already added any.

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