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Old 05-03-2009, 08:22 PM   #1
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A/C problem

my a/c on my 98 TJ.
is fully charged but not working.

any suggestions? i do not know where to start.

the compressor is fine, and the clutch kicks in and stays engaged.

Thanks.

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Old 05-03-2009, 08:51 PM   #2
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Have you recently charged it? I know from past exp. that if you over charge the system, it will not work. Just a guess.

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Old 05-03-2009, 08:53 PM   #3
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i did recently charge it..

what did u have to do to undo over charging it??

i dont think i did.. but just incase its good info.

thanks
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:04 PM   #4
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Well years ago i just released it like letting air out of a tire. But now they have found out that this was a BAD practice. Now you are suppose to have it serviced where they vacum it out.
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:09 PM   #5
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but years ago when u did that.

did it actually work.? i.e is having it "serviced and vacuumed out" not really necesary??

i just checked the pressure and it was a lil to high..

and i def dont have money to blow on someone "servicing" it. if all i need to do is let some pressure out.
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:11 PM   #6
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Yes it worked, but it was a ford pick-up back in the early 80's late 70's.
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:14 PM   #7
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Toss a pressure gauge on it. I think it is suppose to be at 16psi don't qoute me on that. A haynes manuel will have it or even jerry, dave. If it is to high just let it out like air in a tire. Just remember everything we do is bad to the enviroment. just tryin not breathing it too much
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:18 PM   #8
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Couple questions; Why did you charge it in the first place? Did you charge it yourself? How much freon did you put in? When you say it isn't working, do you mean it is blowing room temp air? Do you know if the compressor clutch is engaging? Having asked all these questions, I will tell you that the best way to remedy an A/C system that is low on freon is to have it evacuated and put under a vacuum for at least 15 min. and then recharge the system with exactly the correct amount of freon as stated on the tag in the engine compartment. Of course, this will likely have to be done by a auto shop or dealer unless you have the equipment or know of someone who has it. If you can answer all or some of these questions, I will try to give you a better answer.
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:39 PM   #9
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last summer it was working fine. winter rolled around and i stopped using it. this summer i cranked it back on and it was blowing out lukewarm air. so i tried to charge it, but there was a leak. so i fixed the leak and charged it again today. itsstill blowing warm air.


clutch is engaging.

other than that when i charged it earlier i put to much in so i just now released some pressure out. so its down to normal pressure. stillnot working.

the condensor is not plugged up, and no other leaks.
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:54 PM   #10
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Feel around the hoses under the hood - near the drier. Are they getting cold at all?
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:01 PM   #11
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no they are not cool at all...
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:11 PM   #12
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does anybody have any ideas???
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Old 05-08-2009, 12:10 AM   #13
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Clutch engages OK
hoses not getting cold
still warm air.

are the hoses getting hot or warm?
You just charged it? How did you do it? Was the system open?

How do you know it's full?

how much does the underhood sticker or manual say it holds? Was the sticker for R-12 or R-134?

How do you know the condenser isn't plugged?

What did you put in, R-134 or R-12? How?

Did you evacuate it?
Did you add oil?
did you replace any parts?

How did you find the leak - dye, sniffer, oil leak?

Have you used the dual gauges or a home inflater kit?
Readings?
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Old 05-20-2009, 04:49 PM   #14
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the hoses are gettin warm almost to hot.

i charged it with r-134 can from checkers.

the manual says 16, thats what is in now-after i let some out.
the jeep is rated for r-134.

im assuming the condensor isnt plugged because i inspected it pretty well. (let me know if theres a special way)

no evacuation, no replacement parts, no addition of oil.

i found the leak by seeing it. it was at one of the dryer ports on top of it. seemed to be just seeping out past the threads of the port, so i put teflon tape on it, now it doesnt leak.

hope this answers all ur questions.enough to answer mine.

thank you again
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Old 05-20-2009, 05:35 PM   #15
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You said no replacement parts, so I assume when you fixed your leak you did not remove anything or add anything, right? Only reason I bring this up is if the system was opened there will be air in the system which is very bad. You pretty much have to start from a negative pressure when you fill up like that (have it vacuumed)... Maybe this was already known but I do remember someone telling me that a few years ago when I had trouble.
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Old 05-20-2009, 05:38 PM   #16
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no replacement parts. but i did remove the drier and its ports completely from the system when i fixed the leak.
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:46 PM   #17
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r-134 should read 32psi on low side give or take a few psi mine works like sh%t at anything less. this is a general psi for all auto ac systems and yes i do ac work on cars and homes
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:47 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwm1986 View Post
You said no replacement parts, so I assume when you fixed your leak you did not remove anything or add anything, right? Only reason I bring this up is if the system was opened there will be air in the system which is very bad. You pretty much have to start from a negative pressure when you fill up like that (have it vacuumed)... Maybe this was already known but I do remember someone telling me that a few years ago when I had trouble.
and yes this needs to be in a negative pressure when you start aroun 1000-2500 microns vacuum
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:54 PM   #19
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so is there a way to vacuum it w out going to a shop??
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:04 PM   #20
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So you opened the system to repair the leak - usually Teflon tape doesn't seal it. You have to replace the little O rings.

But it's back together now.
You charged it again - now you say it's 16 - I assume that's static pressure, engine off and time enough to equalize? That doesn't really tell much except that there's slight pressure where you put the gauge. Something could be plugged completely but it'll backfeed and read that.

Hoses get warm, not cold
Still blows warm air
Clutch stays engaged. Does it cycle?
If you just put one can in, it may not be enough.

I'm just guessing, but I think it needs about 2 cans of the 12 oz size of R-134. That's 24 oz, or about 1 1/2 lbs.

The reason to evacuate is to get any water out, and purge it of air. Under vacuum water vaporizes at room temp. But there's another way - put a little r-134 in, maybe 1/4 can, then let it out. That will wash out the water and air. Then do the final filling. Greenies will have a fit, but to hell with them.

Put the gauge on the low side - suction side - measure it while it's running, AC on full blast, windows closed. Let it run a few minutes to stabilize. It should read about 30-40, but not over 40.
If lower, add freon.

If higher - either you have too much in or system is plugged between where your gauge is and the compressor inlet. Like the dryer may be plugged up.

Be sure where you put the gauge is on the low side - same as where you fill it.
If you have access to a dual gauge set or a high side gauge, the high side should be around 200-250. Your manual will tell exactly.

Low - 30-40
High 200-250

Check your service manual.
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:27 PM   #21
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i replaced the o ring as well, but it wasnt the oring that wwas the problem somewhere down the line the previous owner took the port off and when he put it back on it got stripped and the threads got crookid so the actual port doesnt seat all the way on the o ring. but ya tef tape worked to make up the difference.

other than that hjow do u tell if it cycles?? when i turn on the a/c (car on obviously) i turn it to max a/c highest setting. the clutch turns on a few moments after the start of the car, then it takes an additional few moments for actual air to come out of the vents.
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:40 PM   #22
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It should blow air as soon as you turn on the blower. It should not take awhile. But that's not what's stopping the cold.

Cycling - the compressor clutch engages, you can see the whole clutch turning, then it disengages for a short time (the outer portion of the clutch stops turning,) then engages, then disengages - over and over. That's cycling.
Normally it should stay on until it reaches temp (cold) then it cycles. But it's cold then.

But it will do that if there's some, but not enough freon in the system to work properly. If it's totally empty, then the clutch won't engage at all. Then either static charge it with one can, or bypass the switch.

Partially full - What happens is the static pressure is enough to close the switch, but when the compressor comes on, it creates enough suction to make the switch think the system is empty, so it shuts it off - over and over again - cycles on and off.

Tell us the pressures. At least the low side engine running, and if it's moving or not.
Make sure your gauge is capable of 250-300 lbs if you are going to test the Hi side. The wrong gauge can explode.
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:44 PM   #23
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its just staying on,, at least it seems like it.

i will try these things u have listed tomorrow and let you know what happens....

thx foreverything. BOLO for my results posted tomorrow
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:09 PM   #24
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when u say hi side and low side.

do u mean for high side; the part where it goes from the compressor to the firewall of the jeep?

and low side; the part where it goes from dryer to the compressor?

if so, both stems are reading 25 -26 rite now. wiht the jeep off.
should i measure it with the jeep on?
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:19 PM   #25
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am i suppose ti fill it on the dryer? or on the stem that is going from the compressor to the firewall?

the can i got from checkers only fits the stem going from compressor to the firewall.
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:50 PM   #26
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The dryer - the terminal is a little larger too.

Thats where checkers fits - the low side (low pressure side.)

That's where you fill it.

Based on your question - DO NOT CONNECT ANYTHING TO THE OTHER ONE.

Yes, as I said, the pressure with the engine off is nearly useless.

Tell us what it reads with the engine RUNNING, AC on HIGH, windows closed - let it run about five minutes like that, then read the gauge. Also note what the outside temperature is - that affects the readings too.

To see if the compressor is running - LIKE I SAID BEFORE - LOOK at the clutch!




How many cans did you put in since you had it open the fix the leak?
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:56 PM   #27
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well...
today i completely emptied the pressure out of the low side and started at zero, pu t two cans of 12 ounce freeon in and its at 35 psi right now and blowin cold.
finally!!

what a pain in the ass that was, i was bout to take my shotty to that damn a/c...

thx for all the hhelp every one. def would not of been able to do it wiht out all the input.

if any thing goes wrong ill let u know.


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