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Old 04-15-2009, 09:00 AM   #1
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AAHHHG! Why is my IOD fuse keep blowing?

Ok, i went and bought a new fuse for my headlights. I put it in, turn the lights on and it instantly blows!!! I have not done or touched anything electronical or any wires. At $3.09 a fuse this is starting to cost me. What can cause it to blow? I see there have been other threads about this subject, but none state what was done to correct the problem. HELP! See my thread (Need help with FUSE? 30 AMP.) for pic's.

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Old 04-15-2009, 09:07 AM   #2
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If the fuse is blowing, it's likely because there's a short somewhere in the wiring. You might follow the wiring from the lights to the fuse as much as possible, looking for burnt, worn, crossed, pinched, or otherwise look guilty. Have you done any wiring work under the hood recently?

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Old 04-15-2009, 09:13 AM   #3
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Not at all. The olny wiring i've done was with my fogs about 2-3 weeks ago. The headlights were working up untill last night.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:37 AM   #4
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OK Guy's i found the problem, hope this helps out for some others. The other day i was cleaning my engine carpartment. So GA "TJ" got me thinking. I remembered i moved some wires by the headlights to clean underneath, WAHLAA i found the cause, both headlights have wires that have NO Insulation around them! Right at the connectors. I don't know what happened to them but they are bare. So when i moved them to clean i pressed two of them together causeing the short. I have pic's look where the screw-driver is pointed too. Thanks everybody!!!!!
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:39 AM   #5
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Pic's
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:00 AM   #6
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What would cause this to happen? I've never seen insulation just deteriorate. Especially right by the connector.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:37 AM   #7
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Insulation on automotive wiring has a higher heat resistance and is tougher to avoid chafing. I've seen many connections with the jacket burned back like that and its due to a poor connection and or over loading. Check the connector for more damage, if its gotten to hot the plastic connector around the pin will be burnt or deformed also. My guess is it was just a weak connection that caused it.
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:18 PM   #8
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Yep. I'd second 4point on this. poor connection, too much juice through the circuit or my personal favorite, moisture. Sometimes you can get conductive liquids forming a path between two close connections. This can give you the short, and potentially enough juice to cook the coating.
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:52 PM   #9
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Grab some heat shrink and waterpoof electrical tape and fix them. Then die-electric the connection again. It will be good as new after that.
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:57 PM   #10
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Grab some heat shrink and waterpoof electrical tape and fix them. Then die-electric the connection again. It will be good as new after that.
That's what i was forgetting to get today! Heat shrink tubeing. Thanks for the reminder "jdhallissey".
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:57 PM   #11
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Grab some heat shrink and waterpoof electrical tape and fix them. Then die-electric the connection again. It will be good as new after that.
That may work. But I have found that after that much heat has been applied to the metal tabs they lose their ability to retain the proper tension to make a good connection. If that has happened you can buy a new head light connector at the auto parts store and splice it in.
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:03 PM   #12
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That may work. But I have found that after that much heat has been applied to the metal tabs they lose their ability to retain the proper tension to make a good connection. If that has happened you can buy a new head light connector at the auto parts store and splice it in.
Thier working now, i just have the three wires split apart with some black electric tape around them, untill i can fix it the correct way. Thanks again everybody.
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:53 PM   #13
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you could even wrap them in electrical tape like you have then heat shrink it then rewarp those wires induvidually again. Then side the plastic tubing over it and tape that with water proof tape. It should not melt away again if it does then your looking into the relays being bad.
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:03 PM   #14
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And Oh by the way....quit washing it!!!!!!
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:50 PM   #15
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And Oh by the way....quit washing it!!!!!!
I was waiting for someone to chim in about that. LOL It's just after seeing "blacktoothgrin"s ride, i felt inadequate.
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:34 PM   #16
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To heat shrink it will require cutting the wire downsteam somewhere. i would get the brush on insulator that 3M sells. That stuff works miracles.
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Old 04-15-2009, 07:58 PM   #17
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It should not melt away again if it does then your looking into the relays being bad.
TJ headlights don't use a relay, at least not on my '97.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:31 PM   #18
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I was waiting for someone to chim in about that. LOL It's just after seeing "blacktoothgrin"s ride, i felt inadequate.
Glad to see you found the electrical problem.

And there's no shame in keep'n your Rig clean Dave.
At least, I FEEL NO SHAME...lol
Keep it up!

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Old 04-16-2009, 10:54 AM   #19
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So what do you use/do to keep it looking that nice.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:00 AM   #20
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We need a new "dirtiest engine compartment" thread for us others.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:01 AM   #21
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I try to keep mine clean but it don't look like that.
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:25 AM   #22
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I am in for the dirtiest engine I will get the thread started this afternoon!
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:43 PM   #23
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Well, it started off in pretty good shape from the guy that I bought it from.
As for me, I just use warm water/elbow grease/armor-all and some tlc.
I know there is some other nice and thick protective coating that can be put on it and let dry, right after you clean it. It's supposed to last for a few months at a time, but I don't know what it's called. Anyone know the name of that stuff?
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Old 04-16-2009, 03:11 PM   #24
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I use a spray & shine from honda. They make it for thier motorcycles. You don't need any water just a rag. You spray it on (foam) let it sit for about a minute then rub off. It leaves a wax like shine, it takes off grease/bugs/tar/ dirt. That's what i used to clean my fenderwells for the first time. They were loaded with road grime. I thought they were black untill i saw "blacktoothgrin's" pic's. Took me about 30-40 minutes to do both. The can cost about $8.00
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Old 04-16-2009, 05:44 PM   #25
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Here's a pic of the spray, Blactoothgrin my engine is not as clean as yours-YET. LOL

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