Don't worry about your caster angle, it should be fine... it is the toe-in that really needs to be adjusted after installing a suspension lift. The camber angle isn't adjustable either, not that it usually needs adjustment.
Installing a suspension lift with stock fixed length control arms does two things... 1) It very slightly pulls your axles closer together, shorting your wheelbase a tad. 2) It very slightly decreases your front axle's caster angle by rotating the axle a tad. That slight reduction in caster angle is actually a good thing for larger tires since you don't want quite as much caster angle for a larger tire like you'll be running with your new suspension lift.
Besides, the caster angle isn't a critical angle... so long as there is enough caster angle to provide good return-to-center for the steering wheel after completing a turn, it should be fine.
Finally, setting the toe-in is WAY too simple to pay a shop to do it for you. You can set it yourself in your driveway more quickly than you can drive down to the alignment shop. Results will be every bit as accurate too.
Here is a good webpage for the basics of how to set your own toe-in and recenter your steering wheel. Basic Jeep Front End Alignment
. It's truly an easy thing to do, the alignment shops hate it when people learn it's not black magic.
Set the toe-in so as explained on that webpage, the fronts of your tires are between 1/16" and 1/8" closer together than they are in the rear. All you need is a tape measure, a wrench to loosen the bolts that hold the tie rod, & a big set of pliers. With a small amount of care, your toe-in will be every bit as accurate as the latest whiz-bang laser alignment shop can produce. Hard to believe, maybe, but very true. Set the toe-in first, then re-center the steering wheel which is just as easy. No, you don't remove the Pitman arm to recenter your steering wheel, there is an adjustment link on the drag link that makes that job extremely easy.
Finally, here's a good way to do it where the distances between the tires are more easily measured. Nothing more than two 1" square pieces of alumumum tubing marked at points equal to your tire diameter, and held to the brake rotor by a spring clamp.