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Old 02-15-2011, 02:48 AM   #1
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Question am i Dooomed!! it wont pass emissions!

Hi
i am posting here to see if someone has had the same problem as me. Let me explain

Jeep wrangler x 2006,
2inch lift, 15 wheels and the only mod
a k&n intake.

I got it and it showed no problems, after a month code P0133 came on,
and i was o well just an Oxygen sensor, well i replaced the first two for
just in case i would miss it. then i went to do emission test so i could get it registered,
wel it didn't passed, on the computer it showed 3 monitors not being active
Evap system not ready
Catalyst system not ready
cant remember the third one, though the guy running the test
said he had never seen that error showing up on the screen. And on the tj it would not even show the check engine light, well i came home after 2 hours of driving and thinking what could be the problem,,
well the check engine light came back on my way home, same code P0133,
i thought well maybe the sensor came defective, so i returned it and got another one,
well went back to do the test and the same freaking problem,,
it would show the same thing and the check engine light came back on again, showing the same code!!
well i found some info after some research on how to activate those monitors but it estates you have to drive the car on a special manner. really i havent tried that because it seems unrealistic,
i have never seen a guy driving in that way saying "oh i am activating the systems so i can pass emission" sarcastic but you get it..

help me guys,, what can be the problem here

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Old 02-15-2011, 05:53 AM   #2
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It's not unrealistic , same with my 98 I bought last summer , fail 7 times, luckily I know the owner , but he gave me these driving tips that will infact close the ports that are saying not ready. And if a state cop asks what you are doing , show him the steps written out on the paper as proof so you don't get a hard time ::

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Old 02-15-2011, 05:55 AM   #3
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And ps

This problem was because of the computer being reset after battery was replaced when I bought it, some CPU's just don't restart like they are supposed to. At least that's what it was in my case. Hope this helps
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:20 AM   #4
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The P0133 could also be caused by a leak in your exhaust system.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:16 AM   #5
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You could always move somewhere that doesn't test...
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:29 AM   #6
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hope this helps

I work at a garage on the weekends in PA and I have seen a bunch of cars over the years fail emissions for the same reason. What you need to do after you disconnect the battery or clear a code from the computer is go through a drive cycle usually it like 50 to 100 miles. and then your computer will be ready but if your check engine comes on during the drive cycle you will have to fix the cause and then clear the code and go through the drive cycle again.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:13 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rubtj
I work at a garage on the weekends in PA and I have seen a bunch of cars over the years fail emissions for the same reason. What you need to do after you disconnect the battery or clear a code from the computer is go through a drive cycle usually it like 50 to 100 miles. and then your computer will be ready but if your check engine comes on during the drive cycle you will have to fix the cause and then clear the code and go through the drive cycle again.
^^^^^ what he said.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rubtj View Post
I work at a garage on the weekends in PA and I have seen a bunch of cars over the years fail emissions for the same reason. What you need to do after you disconnect the battery or clear a code from the computer is go through a drive cycle usually it like 50 to 100 miles. and then your computer will be ready but if your check engine comes on during the drive cycle you will have to fix the cause and then clear the code and go through the drive cycle again.
x2 You can't just clear the code and go get checked out. there is a time requirement that the engine runs diagnostics on itself after the codes are reset to check and make sure the problem is not there anymore.

I would check the wires to the o2 sensor, and follow them as far as you can to where they meet with the rest of the wiring harness. See if any place is worn or melted which could be causing your o2 code. and then to check the exhaust for leaks, with the engine running run your hand about an inch away from the pipe (ideally it would be cool from sitting for a while) and see if you feel any pin holes where exhaust is escaping.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:16 AM   #9
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I still think z max makes anything pass. I didn't read the thread at all, but z max always worked for me before in other cars.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:36 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by NEWWRANGLEROLDCJ7 View Post
I still think z max makes anything pass. I didn't read the thread at all, but z max always worked for me before in other cars.
That stuff just cleans your emissions. It wont effect the moniters, which is the problem here.
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:05 PM   #11
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Sounds like a 50 cent fix for both problems.

The O2 heater circuit isn't working - check ALL your fuses.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:16 PM   #12
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The o2 sensor circuit has a fuse?

Did you replace the correct sensor? 0133 is for the bank one upstream. It would be in the front manifold above the precat. What brand did you use. I recently changed mine with Bosch and both upstream sensors popped the heater codes (0133, 0155). (I had the same code on my Durango with a Denso O2 sensor and a Bosch sensor cleard the code on it, go figure)
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:03 PM   #13
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Yes, the O2 sensors do have a fuse - sort of.
The power for the sensors heaters comes from somewhere - not the computer itself. Wherever it comes from is going to be a fused line. NOTHING is unfused.
And - most people think the computer gets all it's voltage from the ECM fuse, but pull that fuse and you'll still see 12 volts getting in the computer from something else. I forget just what it's tied in with - blower, dash lights, radio - could be most anything labeled something else

Since it's very slow to respond - both the sensors and computer to close the portals, it sounds like it may be that alternate source.

Checking ALL the fuses can't hurt even if it isn't that - it's a good place to start - and it's free.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:12 PM   #14
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I work part time at a shop that it right next door to a smog shop. Since they are not allowed to do the repairs, we get the work. As mentioned above, after resetting the computer you need to drive it for a minimum of 30 miles or so to reset everything. Sometimes you may need to drive longer. We monitor as we drive so we can see the sensors come on line.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:37 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Steve-9 View Post
It's not unrealistic , same with my 98 I bought last summer , fail 7 times, luckily I know the owner , but he gave me these driving tips that will infact close the ports that are saying not ready. And if a state cop asks what you are doing , show him the steps written out on the paper as proof so you don't get a hard time ::

7 times!!! wooww and i am dying for failinf 3 times,
do you happen to remember those driving tips?
i found the steps on how to drive the car but they are different since one is for
toyota/lexus and the other for ford i think..
and here is another problem, my permit just expired lol so i think if they get me without permit its going to be a hell of a problem lol
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:38 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by JDsDream View Post
The P0133 could also be caused by a leak in your exhaust system.
I will be checking that tomorrow after work, i will let you know, thanks
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:41 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by 04rubtj View Post
I work at a garage on the weekends in PA and I have seen a bunch of cars over the years fail emissions for the same reason. What you need to do after you disconnect the battery or clear a code from the computer is go through a drive cycle usually it like 50 to 100 miles. and then your computer will be ready but if your check engine comes on during the drive cycle you will have to fix the cause and then clear the code and go through the drive cycle again.
when you say drive cycle you mean with those steps that i was talking about right?
or you just mean driving the car on a trip? i have the P0133 code right now, though i have driven the jeep for almos 300 miles now, if i go to do the emission test, would i pass even if i have that code and all my monitor show as ready?
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:44 AM   #18
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x2 You can't just clear the code and go get checked out. there is a time requirement that the engine runs diagnostics on itself after the codes are reset to check and make sure the problem is not there anymore.

I would check the wires to the o2 sensor, and follow them as far as you can to where they meet with the rest of the wiring harness. See if any place is worn or melted which could be causing your o2 code. and then to check the exhaust for leaks, with the engine running run your hand about an inch away from the pipe (ideally it would be cool from sitting for a while) and see if you feel any pin holes where exhaust is escaping.
i just checked the wires and i dont see any problems, thoug i would like to try with a tool that measures the voltage or ohms,, cant remember the name
i will check for exhaust leaks tomorrow, i hope that is the problem
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:52 AM   #19
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The o2 sensor circuit has a fuse?

Did you replace the correct sensor? 0133 is for the bank one upstream. It would be in the front manifold above the precat. What brand did you use. I recently changed mine with Bosch and both upstream sensors popped the heater codes (0133, 0155). (I had the same code on my Durango with a Denso O2 sensor and a Bosch sensor cleard the code on it, go figure)
yeah i did replaced the correct one, why do jeeps have 4 sensors!!! and all of them have different end!!!
i also used a Bosch one from autozone, though i dont really trust the brand, but i have received 2 returns so the sensor was not the problem...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrich View Post
Yes, the O2 sensors do have a fuse - sort of.
The power for the sensors heaters comes from somewhere - not the computer itself. Wherever it comes from is going to be a fused line. NOTHING is unfused.
And - most people think the computer gets all it's voltage from the ECM fuse, but pull that fuse and you'll still see 12 volts getting in the computer from something else. I forget just what it's tied in with - blower, dash lights, radio - could be most anything labeled something else

Since it's very slow to respond - both the sensors and computer to close the portals, it sounds like it may be that alternate source.

Checking ALL the fuses can't hurt even if it isn't that - it's a good place to start - and it's free.
so lets say a fuse for the radio burns,,, and the sensors were tied to it,, the computer would recognize an error right away because of the faulty fuse?.......
i checked all the fuses and they are all right... i will look for a wire harness map of the tj and see where is the sensor getting volts from,,
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joehernandez View Post
yeah i did replaced the correct one, why do jeeps have 4 sensors!!! and all of them have different end!!!
i also used a Bosch one from autozone, though i dont really trust the brand, but i have received 2 returns so the sensor was not the problem...



:
All of the connectors are the same. All of mine with the same sensor for all 4 locations. Some brand and sites do list different part numbers but the difference is the length of the cable.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Neil F.

All of the connectors are the same. All of mine with the same sensor for all 4 locations. Some brand and sites do list different part numbers but the difference is the length of the cable.
Mine has 2 connectors that are different from the other 2.

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