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Old 03-23-2013, 05:01 PM   #1
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And I didnt have D/W ???? Video

I dont know how I didnt get the dreaded death wobble??? It started getting noisy & I thought it was just loose but the nut wasent loose when I tried tightening it.Ive worked on Jeeps that had no lift & stock tires that had half the play as mine & I thought I was going to crash with the amount of d/w.
VID_20130323_174829_zps526bcd65.mp4 Video by FMaio | Photobucket

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Old 03-23-2013, 05:38 PM   #2
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i'll bet the hole is wallowed out bad.

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Old 03-23-2013, 05:46 PM   #3
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i'll bet the hole is wallowed out bad.
You might be right.I tightened the nut but it still is loose.I removed the nut and the bar came right out(like you said,hole prob wallowed out) The ball on the trac bar is very loose then jambs up so I do need a bar at minimum.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:58 PM   #4
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You might be right.I tightened the nut but it still is loose.I removed the nut and the bar came right out(like you said,hole prob wallowed out) The ball on the trac bar is very loose then jambs up so I do need a bar at minimum.
yup the hole is toast.

stock height? if so, contact Black Magic Brakes (mrblaine) on the forum and get one of his special taper inserts for this problem. you'll need to find somebody that can TIG weld it in. then you can install a new stock replacement track bar.
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:02 PM   #5
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yup the hole is toast.

stock height? if so, contact Black Magic Brakes (mrblaine) on the forum and get one of his special taper inserts for this problem. you'll need to find somebody that can TIG weld it in. then you can install a new stock replacement track bar.
Would it just be better to just get a new pitman arm? Also I have a 2in susp lift.I unhooked the arm,rolled the Jeep back and forth & its only off maybe a quarter inch so I am getting a stock trac bar.
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:04 PM   #6
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Would it just be better to just get a new pitman arm? Also I have a 2in susp lift.I unhooked the arm,rolled the Jeep back and forth & its only off maybe a quarter inch so I am getting a stock trac bar.
what good is replacing the pitman arm when you have a bad track bar mount and track bar?
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:07 PM   #7
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Sorry,I misspoke.I was thinking it went into the p/a.Not!!! Crap!!!
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:23 PM   #8
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yup the hole is toast.

stock height? if so, contact Black Magic Brakes (mrblaine) on the forum and get one of his special taper inserts for this problem. you'll need to find somebody that can TIG weld it in. then you can install a new stock replacement track bar.
I pm'd him but he doesent sell any type of sleeve.So whats the best way to repair this? i cant seem to find a sleeve anywhere.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:16 PM   #9
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I may start a new thread on fixing my prob.I cant seem to find any reairs on line.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:22 PM   #10
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you need to cut the mount off and weld a new one on.

or find somebody that sells a tapered insert, with the factory tie-rod taper, which can be TIG welded to the cast mount.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:28 PM   #11
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you need to cut the mount off and weld a new one on.

or find somebody that sells a tapered insert, with the factory tie-rod taper, which can be TIG welded to the cast mount.
Id like to get a taper insert but having a hard time finding someone who has one
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:50 PM   #12
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Well is seems going with a currie bar is prob my easiest repair.I think they call for a 5/8 hole to be drilled which should fix my prob.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:15 PM   #13
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Well is seems going with a currie bar is prob my easiest repair.I think they call for a 5/8 hole to be drilled which should fix my prob.
that will fix the problem with the hole, but if you don't have at least 2" of bumpstop extension, that track bar will be smashing into your diff cover.

there is no aftermarket track bar that will fit without a lift and some bumpstop extension. Currie TJS/TJJ and JKS #126 are as high clearance as you're going to get...and both require significant work with bumpstop extension and/or steering to clear at low heights.

at 2" of lift, you can make it work...but it won't be a bolt-and-go affair.

start reading: tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 98 - JeepForum.com
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:57 PM   #14
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Why does this have to be so hard?? I guess iys a Jeep think lol.
TJ for sale
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:53 PM   #15
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you need to cut the mount off and weld a new one on.

or find somebody that sells a tapered insert, with the factory tie-rod taper, which can be TIG welded to the cast mount.
I offered him a clean mount I cut off of a frame that will solve the problem. All it will cost him is shipping. I don't sell the inserts because of the specialized tooling they require.

The hole has to be drilled to .750 with a drill bit. Then it has to be reamed out to slightly larger with straight reamer, then it has to be counterbored 1/8" deep for the shoulder and the whole mess has to be pressed in because it has about a 3-5 thou interference fit. When that is done, it has to be carefully Tig welded top and bottom.

BTW- it isn't a cast mount, it is a steel forging and it welds just fine.
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:22 AM   #16
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I offered him a clean mount I cut off of a frame that will solve the problem. All it will cost him is shipping. I don't sell the inserts because of the specialized tooling they require.

The hole has to be drilled to .750 with a drill bit. Then it has to be reamed out to slightly larger with straight reamer, then it has to be counterbored 1/8" deep for the shoulder and the whole mess has to be pressed in because it has about a 3-5 thou interference fit. When that is done, it has to be carefully Tig welded top and bottom.

BTW- it isn't a cast mount, it is a steel forging and it welds just fine.
You did & I appreciate it.I am looking into a insert & I dont want to take your mount if Im not 100% Im going to use it
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:50 AM   #17
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I offered him a clean mount I cut off of a frame that will solve the problem. All it will cost him is shipping. I don't sell the inserts because of the specialized tooling they require.

The hole has to be drilled to .750 with a drill bit. Then it has to be reamed out to slightly larger with straight reamer, then it has to be counterbored 1/8" deep for the shoulder and the whole mess has to be pressed in because it has about a 3-5 thou interference fit. When that is done, it has to be carefully Tig welded top and bottom.

BTW- it isn't a cast mount, it is a steel forging and it welds just fine.
thanks for clarifying.

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