Anyone ever install a Slip Yoke Eliminater? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:35 PM   #1
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Anyone ever install a Slip Yoke Eliminater?

I just lifted my 04 Wrangler X and got the drive shaft shake. I already installed the Tcase drop kit but it didn't help. Not wanting too but I now have to do this one myself, out of funds. I have read the directions for the procedure and know that I have to remove and crack the Tcase. Has anyone installed one of these kits and have any advice?

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Old 10-06-2009, 08:47 PM   #2
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you donīt have to remove the t-case. the whole installation under the car does only takes a while longer than removing tha t-case.

i installed a SYE on my TJ this spring. after an afternoon it was done.

the only annoying thing were these XXXXX lock rings.

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Old 10-06-2009, 09:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
you donīt have to remove the t-case. the whole installation under the car does only takes a while longer than removing tha t-case.

i installed a SYE on my TJ this spring. after an afternoon it was done.

the only annoying thing were these XXXXX lock rings.

What did you use to get the lock rings off? and you did the hole job under your jeep? I was expecting gears to fall out if it wasnt setting flat.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:00 PM   #4
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I used a spezial lock ring tool for that.



After removing the rear driveshaft and yoke you have to remove a seal and a lock ring at the end of the rear housing where the speedo gear is installed. Itīs a bit tricky to remove this lock ring because there isnīt much room beside it.



You also have to remove the front driveshaft and pinion yoke because you have to pull out this shaft later.

While removing the rear TC case take care of the oil pump thatīs on the right shaft and itīs hose that ends in the left of the TC. Thereīs also a little magnet at the left bottom of the TC.

On the pic belos the oil pump is blue, the hose is red and the magnet is green.



When you removed the rear housing it looks like that.



Then you pull out both shafts incl. the chain.



After installing all gears from the old to the now shaft you have to put in the two shafts and the chain. Then you only have to reassemble everything (incl. the new rear housing for the speedo gear).
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:42 PM   #5
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looks like nicolas beat me to putting up pics. his are better anyway if your doing it while its in your junk. i took the case out of mine because i was doing the clutch and a few other things while i was in there but getting the case out without removing the trans looked to me like it would be a pita because of no room to get to the bolts. those snap rings are a REAL PITA and i say you MUST invest in a good quality pair of snap ring pliers, cheapies just wont cut it here. there really isnt much inside of a transfer case and i allways tell people its a great place to start learning about how the insides of your drivetrain work.

a few things worth noting, there are no gaskets on the transfer case you just use rtv so make sure the mating surfaces are clean before you bolt it back up, use alcohol (no, beer wont do it here). the transfer case has slots for a flat blade screw driver to crack it open, use them but a rubber mallet helps too. if you take the case apart and the chain is looser than nico's, replace it for peace of mind and so you dont have to later. lube the gears and new shaft with engine assembly lube or atf before assembly.

o, one big pita difference between your transfer case and nico's is that yours will have a harmonic balancer on the output shaft and that has to come off before you can get the case apart. i could not find a puller big enough to fit over the end of the output shaft and still get a bite on the dam thing. it has 3 holes in it designed to put bolts in and push it off but i had no luck with them and broke 3 bolts off in them. i cursed at and beat on that thing for HOURS before i found a way to get it off. i bought the biggest pulley puller that napa carries, i couldnt find a harmonic balancer puller that was the correct size for the holes in this thing they were all designed for engine balancers. the one that they had did not fit over the output shaft and bite on the balancer so i had to cut a few inches off the shaft, that thing is hard to cut through but dont worry about making a pretty cut since your throwing the shaft away anyway, this is a grinder or torch cut a hacksaw or sawzal will not do. even with the shaft cut down i couldnt get a bite on the balancer so i had to drill the rubber out of it so i could get the outer weight off to get the outside diameter down to where i could catch it. once i got that done it was cake to get off. moral of the story, either find a really big puller, hope yours comes off easier than mine (my junk is a 2000 and had ~200,000 miles when i did it), or just be ready for the annoying job. getting that thing off of there is the hardest part of the whole job, it took me less than an hour to do the rest of the work once that thing was out of my way. you wont be putting the balancer back on so you can destroy it and not worry about it.

if i was closer to WV i would gladly help you with it but NJ is a little bit of a drive. im sure you could find someone that will help you with it if you provide the beer. theres plenty of people around that love wrenching on these things.
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:20 PM   #6
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Thanks for the information guys. Maybe it wont be as bad as I thought. Thanks for the pics too, like they say a picture is worth a 1000 words.

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