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Old 12-07-2013, 04:27 PM   #271
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Got mine out of a junk yard for $150, bought the Artec truss kit and re-geared it. Works great!

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Old 12-09-2013, 04:00 PM   #272
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I may be able to get a 8.8 which according to the seller has the following ID on it:

s613b 3L73 8 8 4m06

So as I understand from this thread it's a 3:73 LSD

Does anyone know what the rest of the code means?

Is there any way I can check whether this axle comes from a 1996-2001 Explorer (which I understand is what I should be looking for..)

Thanks,
Martin

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Old 12-15-2013, 02:48 AM   #273
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Found it myself in meantime:

S613B = Explorer 95-01
Gear ratio: 3.73
Axle: 8.8 (w/ls diff)

The 4m06 is not clear to me yet though - as I understand may be related to build date and plant.

Martin
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:39 PM   #274
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If i regear my rear end from 3:73 to 4:11 do I need to also do the front?
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:45 PM   #275
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If i regear my rear end from 3:73 to 4:11 do I need to also do the front?
To use 4x4 yes otherwise bad things will happen
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:24 AM   #276
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Are you guys running a 1310 adapter or changing the flange to a 1310 yoke?
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:29 AM   #277
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I use the 1310to1330 bastard u joint. From O'Reillys

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Old 01-25-2014, 08:49 PM   #278
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I installed a 8.8 and a waggy 44 just finished up actually. Now am regearing the front to 4.56 to match the rear. I didn't even run a front driveshaft while driving with mix matched gears as I drive for about 3 weeks to make sure my truss n lift was gonna hold up. I'm planning on finishing the gears in the morning and thinking about welding the front diff for now. I've got manual hubs so shouldn't be a problem right? I'd love a sel lock but just not in the budget right now n I wanna ride.
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:57 PM   #279
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Oh yeah also what are yas talking about on the yokes? I def don't wanna run the small flange that's on my 8.8 and its got a bad spot in it. Is there a yoke that will replace it or a heavy duty flange I can get easy?
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Old 01-25-2014, 11:25 PM   #280
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ECGS flange yoke adapter 1310
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:53 PM   #281
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Firstly, Im a noob here and to Jeeps so you are free to assume I know absolutely nothing about anything....

So, I am looking to swap my axle(D35). Unless a deal comes up soon on a D44, the 8.8 will be going in. One of my questions is at what point does mileage on the donor 8.8 become an issue. I have found a couple with the correct ratio, but the closest one has over 190K on it. I would really like to do this without having to do anything internally to the axle. I am looking for a solid, dependable rear and have no intentions of getting too extreme with this Jeep.

BTW, without any outside labor my math is putting this around the $600 mark...is that about right or have I missed something. Axle..150, Brackets/truss..300, spacers..100, adapter..30, ebrake..??

Thanks for any help.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:37 AM   #282
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I personally don't worry about mileage that much. U should take the cover off and look at the gears and make sure none are broken or chipped.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:19 AM   #283
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I'd probably refresh all the brakes and bad lines and paint it. New gear oil. Wheel bearings.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:10 PM   #284
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Exclamation Jeep parts needed

Need to find a new driver side window and rear window for my TJ soft top.. Near Burleson, Tx and for a decent price! Please Let me know if anyone is selling or knows someone who is selling!
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:02 PM   #285
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first time 8.8 swap question here. Do I need to remove the axles before I start welding on my Artec truss kit. I am going to run the stock Ford internals for now.(4.10 limited slip,31 spline), but I need to know if I need to remove axles before welding.
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:23 PM   #286
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Hmmmm. I would say no but I always pull everything to check and clean it anyways. It also makes the axle lighter and easier to handle and let's heat disperse from the welding easier. Just watch you don't overheat the bearings/seals from welding.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:33 PM   #287
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Any testimonials as to how the disc brakes work after the swap, with or w/o a proportioning valve??? This may my deciding factor on doing the swap.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:21 PM   #288
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Hmmmm. I would say no but I always pull everything to check and clean it anyways. It also makes the axle lighter and easier to handle and let's heat disperse from the welding easier. Just watch you don't overheat the bearings/seals from welding.
While I am a pretty decent mechanic, I am by far NOT and an expert on Hypoid gears. I bought the rear from a reputable salvage yard that supplies used parts to insurance companies. They inspected, and gave me a warranty on the diff. So if I go digging around in there with my limited diff knowledge, I may do more harm than good. I can pull axles, I am just scared to pull the carrier.
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:02 PM   #289
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Any testimonials as to how the disc brakes work after the swap, with or w/o a proportioning valve??? This may my deciding factor on doing the swap.
Witch convertion r u talking about?
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:55 PM   #290
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That would be the conversion this thread is dedicated to. 8.8 Ford explorer rear. I assumed that pretty much everyone who did this went with the disc brake models.
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:11 PM   #291
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What in the world is the little shock like bracket on the pinion? And can someone please give me a complete list of what I need to order for ALL internals. Is a master rebuild kit the same as a master install kit? Is there someplace I can order everything?
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:09 PM   #292
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That would be the conversion this thread is dedicated to. 8.8 Ford explorer rear. I assumed that pretty much everyone who did this went with the disc brake models.
Well if u get the axle from 96-2001 model they all come with dish brakes so is no need to make any convertion to it. Unless u want drums intead rotors.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:41 AM   #293
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When you replace an axle that has drum brakes with one that has disc brakes arent you converting to disc brakes? I have a Fox body Mustang and this is also a swap option for them as well(drum axle to disc axle). With the Mustang you have to have the proportioning valve, but most people are saying this isnt so with the Wranglers. I was just wondering how well the brakes actually worked well without the valve.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:34 PM   #294
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Mine works fine without the proportioning value. I was skeptical at first but it works.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:59 PM   #295
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When you replace an axle that has drum brakes with one that has disc brakes arent you converting to disc brakes? I have a Fox body Mustang and this is also a swap option for them as well(drum axle to disc axle). With the Mustang you have to have the proportioning valve, but most people are saying this isnt so with the Wranglers. I was just wondering how well the brakes actually worked well without the valve.
Ok i did the convertion with out changing the valve and i can tell you that u wont see any differents on the braking power it just feel like if i have drums. I did it cause its easy to work on and i want it to have disc front n rear but it just my thing. But if you are doing it cause u want more braking power you gona need to do some mods in the front brakes since you got more stoping power in the fron then the rear. I hear that there its an upgrade pads and rotors for the front but im not quiet sure about it, hope that answer your question
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Old 02-06-2014, 01:26 PM   #296
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Well my 8.8 swap came to an abrupt halt, spent a day cutting and grinding all the explorer brackets off. When I was done I stepped back to look at my work and noticed the axle tubes are bent.UGHHHH. I didnt notice this at the time of purchase. I even called a fellow Jeep friend over to look at it. He even said that if I hadnt told him he would not have noticed it either. But it is pretty bad, measured at the axle flange there is 1/4 in difference front to back. With 33 in tires mounted it turns into about 3/4 in "toe in" on the front. The tubes are bent forward. I guess the donor explorer was rear ended. Well back on the axle search. This is the second time I have been burnt on a donor 8.8
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:18 PM   #297
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You can straighten them easy... Take it to a shop or you can do it at home. Short description involves stabilizing the axle ends up on jack etc stands and using something heavy to push/pull the axle the way you want it bent. I think you bend it 5x as far as you want it then let it spring back and you'll get the amount you want.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:21 PM   #298
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You can straighten them easy... Take it to a shop or you can do it at home. Short description involves stabilizing the axle ends up on jack etc stands and using something heavy to push/pull the axle the way you want it bent. I think you bend it 5x as far as you want it then let it spring back and you'll get the amount you want.
Can't be that easy can it? I called a shop and thy quoted me almost $400 to straighten one tube :/
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:37 PM   #299
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Can't be that easy can it? I called a shop and thy quoted me almost $400 to straighten one tube :/
Mine was bent in an accident and they tweaked it back. Idk the exact price but 400 sounds high. If he can find another axle might as well but he can try the DIY as well lol. If insurance didnt pan out for me I was gona do it myself.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:32 PM   #300
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Yeah I saw several write ups on how to straighten one at home. I just dont know if its worth the risk. The salvage yard honored the warranty and told me to bring it back tomorrow. I'm afraid if I keep it and try to fix it myself, I will be unsuccessful and stuck with the bent diff and out $243. I will have to find another one though. I cant let all these parts go to waste and dont feel like returning them to Artec. Even if I scrapped the project..then what would I do? D44s are stupid expensive and in my opinion sinking any money in this D35 like chromo shafts and a truss is like setting money on fire. I guess I'm just back on the hunt. Here is a pic of the bent housing, I swear with all the factory brackets and dirt it wasnt this noticable.
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