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Old 02-07-2014, 04:57 AM   #301
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Yeah I saw several write ups on how to straighten one at home. I just dont know if its worth the risk. The salvage yard honored the warranty and told me to bring it back tomorrow. I'm afraid if I keep it and try to fix it myself, I will be unsuccessful and stuck with the bent diff and out $243. I will have to find another one though. I cant let all these parts go to waste and dont feel like returning them to Artec. Even if I scrapped the project..then what would I do? D44s are stupid expensive and in my opinion sinking any money in this D35 like chromo shafts and a truss is like setting money on fire. I guess I'm just back on the hunt. Here is a pic of the bent housing, I swear with all the factory brackets and dirt it wasnt this noticable.
I would think it would b fairly easy for the junkyard to get u another able seeing as how common they are.

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Old 02-07-2014, 06:56 AM   #302
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Does look bent pretty good. If you don't wana try to straighten it, just pick up a new one.

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Old 02-12-2014, 02:51 PM   #303
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I'm planning this swap, still in the research phase. I'm hearing that a better idea than a c-clip eliminator and chromos is to use ford 9' axle shafts and pressing in the bearings. I have no idea what that means but I'm told that the c-clip elim isn't strong enough for side hits, even though I've never heard of this being a problem.

Also, I found an axle that has a spool instead of a selectable locker. Can a spool be easily swapped out or are there modifications made that make this impossible?
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:03 PM   #304
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Are any of you guys keeping the LSD and happy with that or going full case locker
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:11 PM   #305
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Since I'm spending the money I'm going with a selectable locker, probably Eaton.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:20 AM   #306
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I am thinking on buying a 3.73 Limited slip 8.8 tommorow for 70 dollars, my question is . With the Limited slip diff, can i upgrade to 4.88's as in Re Gear and still use the Limited slip diff? I know with the TJ's dana 35 you cannot use the carrier when you regear.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:28 AM   #307
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I am thinking on buying a 3.73 Limited slip 8.8 tommorow for 70 dollars, my question is . With the Limited slip diff, can i upgrade to 4.88's as in Re Gear and still use the Limited slip diff? I know with the TJ's dana 35 you cannot use the carrier when you regear.
Depends on the carrier break idk what the carrier break is on a 8.8
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:41 PM   #308
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I am thinking on buying a 3.73 Limited slip 8.8 tommorow for 70 dollars, my question is . With the Limited slip diff, can i upgrade to 4.88's as in Re Gear and still use the Limited slip diff? I know with the TJ's dana 35 you cannot use the carrier when you regear.
Yes you can.
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Old 02-15-2014, 06:22 PM   #309
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Actually I think the only thing you might need is a notched cross pin. No carrier break on the 8.8.
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:09 PM   #310
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Thanks guys, i think ill pull the trigger on it tomorrow as opposed to going with a g2 30 spline kit for the d35. I can't seeing it being too expensive, axle = 70$ , artec truss = 400$ roughly, gears 200$, adapter, ebrake cables, i think that is all
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:24 AM   #311
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For Installing In YJ:
Rear speed sensor plug: Dorman P/n # 555-013
Rear E-Brake Cables: Crown P/n's DBC-03 & DBC-04
For the Outer Soft Lines Use: 2 RH hoses p/n: H1457A
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:06 PM   #312
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i have a 98 tj with an 8.8 rear 4.10 gear ratio on 33's with 4-inch of lift. front axle is a 30 with stock parts. what are my options to re-do the front to make it stronger? do i need a G244 front axle and spend 2700$ or can i do something else with a shop? i sent ECG an email but am just curious ab your veiwpoints on this matter. thx, scott
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Old 03-15-2014, 11:52 PM   #313
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What size tires do you wana build for?
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:05 PM   #314
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35's max. thx, scott
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:06 PM   #315
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can i just get some inner sleeves and gusset's welded to front with chromolly axle shafts to reinforce the 30?
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:13 PM   #316
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What are y'all running for shafts? I'm dropping it off at the shop Friday along with the artec truss and bracket set. I want 4.88's and an ARB locker. What else do I need? C-clip eliminator? Also. How do I set up the brake lines and e-brake cable???
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:00 AM   #317
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I'm running 37s on my 8.8 with 4.56 gears. Think I just had a wheelbearing go down. Not sure though. Been raining. How hard is it swapping bearings on the 8.8? This is a c clip axle right? I bought the axle already set up n just threw it in the rear if my 01 Tj.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:28 AM   #318
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I'm running 37s on my 8.8 with 4.56 gears. Think I just had a wheelbearing go down. Not sure though. Been raining. How hard is it swapping bearings on the 8.8? This is a c clip axle right? I bought the axle already set up n just threw it in the rear if my 01 Tj.
Factory it's a c clip axle but whoever built it could have done a c clip eliminater kit on it.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:37 PM   #319
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Nope didn't get that lucky on cclip. broke 4 of the 5 studs so I get to pull the axle. 4.56 is a thick gear n the pin ain't wanting to clear. Anyone got any tricks??
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:55 PM   #320
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Nope didn't get that lucky on cclip. broke 4 of the 5 studs so I get to pull the axle. 4.56 is a thick gear n the pin ain't wanting to clear. Anyone got any tricks??
You have two popular options:

1. Some people say a notched cross pin...but im still not quite sure how this works

2. Shave down the inside corner of the one or two teeth on the ring gear so that the cross pin will clear. It doesn't take much, and it won't affect the integrity of the gear. I opted for this option...it was free and easy. I did it with a dremel
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:59 PM   #321
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Here is an example of what you have to do if you grind it.

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Old 03-17-2014, 01:59 PM   #322
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can i just get some inner sleeves and gusset's welded to front with chromolly axle shafts to reinforce the 30?
Sleeves and shafts will help. The u joint and gears are weak points then. Just use good u joints. You could look into super joints or the almost alloy kit too. Which is cheap and wel on keeps the ears from deforming.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:29 PM   #323
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What are y'all running for shafts? I'm dropping it off at the shop Friday along with the artec truss and bracket set. I want 4.88's and an ARB locker. What else do I need? C-clip eliminator? Also. How do I set up the brake lines and e-brake cable???
Try again.
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:34 PM   #324
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so I found an 8.8 on craigslist for $100. it has 3.73 (same as my D30), LSD, disks, out of a 98 explorer with 65k on it.

all I need to get it under my TJ is:
-a bracket kit:
TJ Wrangler Rear Axle Bracket Kit [Axle Kit-TJ] - $199.00 : Mad 4 Wheel Drive
-flange adapter:
Ford 8.8 1310 Adpater Flange TJ,YJ,XJ,ZJ
-e-brake cables from any of these:
03-06 TJ Rubicon
03-06 TJ with rear discs
94 Grand Cherokee with rear discs (you have to specify discs as drums were standard that year)
95-98 Grand Cherokee ANY as all had rear discs

is that it? I have no lift, no tummy tuck and only plan to run 33s
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:11 PM   #325
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Thanks for the help guys....
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:16 AM   #326
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A local shop told me that as long as I'm not going bigger than 35" tires and have the disc breaks, I don't need a c-clip eliminator. The weak point is the ring and pinion, which is by no means weak. So according to them its just brackets and e-brake, and if needed, gearing and a locker, maybe some upper adjustable control arms.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:39 AM   #327
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A local shop told me that as long as I'm not going bigger than 35" tires and have the disc breaks, I don't need a c-clip eliminator. The weak point is the ring and pinion, which is by no means weak. So according to them its just brackets and e-brake, and if needed, gearing and a locker, maybe some upper adjustable control arms.
Weak points are shafts and carrier not ring and pinion. You'll be fine on 35s.
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:17 AM   #328
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Oops, it was shafts and carrier. I stand corrected.

By the way, what makes a Ford 8.8 different from a Ford 9 inch? Where do they measure from? Probably a stupid question but this is really the first time I've needed to educate myself on rear axles.
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Old 03-21-2014, 02:52 PM   #329
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Oops, it was shafts and carrier. I stand corrected.

By the way, what makes a Ford 8.8 different from a Ford 9 inch? Where do they measure from? Probably a stupid question but this is really the first time I've needed to educate myself on rear axles.
The ring gear is .2 inches larger but it's also thicker and thicker teeth. The pinion Is also say beefier on the 9. The housing is different and center section drops out separate.
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Old 03-21-2014, 05:50 PM   #330
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The ring gear is .2 inches larger but it's also thicker and thicker teeth. The pinion Is also say beefier on the 9. The housing is different and center section drops out separate.
I think the biggest advantage to the 9" is the aftermarket goodies. You can run it virtually stock or you can totally overhaul it with 40 spline shafts, aftermarket housing...etc etc. It just depends on how much u feel like spending

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