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Old 03-21-2014, 10:46 PM   #331
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Originally Posted by Cons_Table View Post

I think the biggest advantage to the 9" is the aftermarket goodies. You can run it virtually stock or you can totally overhaul it with 40 spline shafts, aftermarket housing...etc etc. It just depends on how much u feel like spending
I agree, I was just explaining the basic differences between the two JY axles. with that stuff... we aren't even talking 9 inch anymore as I think he is thinking haha. Common mans 9 vs pro 9. But yes. I mean the sky is really the limit now with aftermarket housings. You can run 14b fronts now. D80gears on a 70 carrier in another housing. All kinds of stuff.


I saw you post in a thread I found the other day and wanted to ask you about it... But forget what it is now. You were talking about moving your rig to 37s and a front axle maybe...

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Old 03-22-2014, 12:18 AM   #332
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So I asked for help 3 times in here to no avail. So I guess I'll just update y'all on what I've done and maybe someone who reads this can tell me if I'm wrong.

Only weekday off work in the foreseeable future so I enlisted my buddy and his bronco to haul the 96-01 JY 8.8 and artec truss and swap kit in the garage to a shop a good friend of mine works. On the way there was almost involved in a 3 car pile up. So got delayed an hour trying to help an elderly injured woman and keep the drugged up at fault driver from doing anything else stupid. And telling law enforcement what happened. Owner is a cool dude who was willing to work with me. So as of right now everything inside is going to be new except the axle shafts. 4.56, electric auburn locker, new bearings seals all that jazz. New rotors, pads and calipers, most likely new lines. Asked about c-clip eliminator(which he wasn't to knowledgable if I should get one or not). And he's going to weld the truss and everything on no problem.


Soooooo..... Since I've asked before and gotten ignored three times now. I assume this axle will be okay on 35's, is a c-clip eliminator necessary-recommended, and are upgraded axle shafts a recommendation? If yes on any of the above, will you all please give me the recommended product brand to buy. Thank you. Have a nice day if you actually read this.

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Old 03-22-2014, 12:23 AM   #333
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saw you post in a thread I found the other day and wanted to ask you about it... But forget what it is now. You were talking about moving your rig to 37s and a front axle maybe...
When I get around to it, I think I wanna build the axles in the jeep similar to what is in the race cherokee. HP44 and 9" rear...but run on 37s. I think with my driving style, it will be plenty strong...especially if I run chromo. I also like the width...not quite full width, but wider than a stock jeep. My buddy runs that setup on his yota (stock shafts) with 37s and dual transfer cases and the v6...and has only grenaded one ujoint when he was in a huge bind. Just one of the many ideas floating around in my head lol.
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:28 AM   #334
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So I asked for help 3 times in here to no avail. So I guess I'll just update y'all on what I've done and maybe someone who reads this can tell me if I'm wrong.

Only weekday off work in the foreseeable future so I enlisted my buddy and his bronco to haul the 96-01 JY 8.8 and artec truss and swap kit in the garage to a shop a good friend of mine works. On the way there was almost involved in a 3 car pile up. So got delayed an hour trying to help an elderly injured woman and keep the drugged up at fault driver from doing anything else stupid. And telling law enforcement what happened. Owner is a cool dude who was willing to work with me. So as of right now everything inside is going to be new except the axle shafts. 4.56, electric auburn locker, new bearings seals all that jazz. New rotors, pads and calipers, most likely new lines. Asked about c-clip eliminator(which he wasn't to knowledgable if I should get one or not). And he's going to weld the truss and everything on no problem.

Soooooo..... Since I've asked before and gotten ignored three times now. I assume this axle will be okay on 35's, is a c-clip eliminator necessary-recommended, and are upgraded axle shafts a recommendation? If yes on any of the above, will you all please give me the recommended product brand to buy. Thank you. Have a nice day if you actually read this.
I have been running a stock 8.8 for around 3 years on some difficult trails. I personally dont think a c clip eliminator or shafts are absolutely necessary. I honestly think the 8.8 could handle a beating on 37s especially with chromos. So if it were me...unless you are a big fan of the skinny pedal...id run it stock and call it good
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:48 AM   #335
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I have been running a stock 8.8 for around 3 years on some difficult trails. I personally dont think a c clip eliminator or shafts are absolutely necessary. I honestly think the 8.8 could handle a beating on 37s especially with chromos. So if it were me...unless you are a big fan of the skinny pedal...id run it stock and call it good
Thank you sir. I might go up to 37's in the future, and if I break a shaft I'll upgrade I guess.

Anyone have any reviews on the auburn locker?
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:33 PM   #336
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When I get around to it, I think I wanna build the axles in the jeep similar to what is in the race cherokee. HP44 and 9" rear...but run on 37s. I think with my driving style, it will be plenty strong...especially if I run chromo. I also like the width...not quite full width, but wider than a stock jeep. My buddy runs that setup on his yota (stock shafts) with 37s and dual transfer cases and the v6...and has only grenaded one ujoint when he was in a huge bind. Just one of the many ideas floating around in my head lol.
That's it! Haha. I was looking at hp44s. You're right you can get them at 65" WMS which is like JK width. I considered it too and just pulling it in a little with wheels. Problem is still the same I joints as a 30. So you can do shafts but the super joints and stuff aren't really for DDing since they are needleless. I've heard you can with CTMs but I don't know. A JK axle would work well too and have bigger u joints. I think I might just end up with a hp30 and RCVs and lots of other goodies especially because I wheel with a very light foot. I'm watching classifieds though for anything good that pops up however before I start and commit to a 30.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wondertwin1 View Post

Thank you sir. I might go up to 37's in the future, and if I break a shaft I'll upgrade I guess.

Anyone have any reviews on the auburn locker?
You'll be fine with 37s and shafts. Yukon makes the kit. You get better bearings as well.
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:44 PM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wondertwin1 View Post
So I asked for help 3 times in here to no avail. So I guess I'll just update y'all on what I've done and maybe someone who reads this can tell me if I'm wrong.

Soooooo..... Since I've asked before and gotten ignored three times now. I assume this axle will be okay on 35's, is a c-clip eliminator necessary-recommended, and are upgraded axle shafts a recommendation? If yes on any of the above, will you all please give me the recommended product brand to buy. Thank you. Have a nice day if you actually read this.
I've been in touch with a local axle shop for this same swap. They told me that the c-clips will be fine for 35's or 37's, as long as you're not doing things with it where you should be wearing a helmet. I"m also going with an Artec truss set up but for my 35's I'll put in 4.88 gears. I know that's a debate in itself but I read someone say he's heard folks with 4.56's wish they'd gone with 4.88's, but never the other way around. Plus if I ever want to add some lift and go to 37's, I'm already geared. Bottom line for my axle, Artec, Yukon, Eaton, the rest stock. Good luck.
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:08 PM   #338
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That's it! Haha. I was looking at hp44s. You're right you can get them at 65" WMS which is like JK width. I considered it too and just pulling it in a little with wheels. Problem is still the same I joints as a 30. So you can do shafts but the super joints and stuff aren't really for DDing since they are needleless. I've heard you can with CTMs but I don't know. A JK axle would work well too and have bigger u joints. I think I might just end up with a hp30 and RCVs and lots of other goodies especially because I wheel with a very light foot. I'm watching classifieds though for anything good that pops up however before I start and commit to a 30.

You'll be fine with 37s and shafts. Yukon makes the kit. You get better bearings as well.
By that point, the jeep wont really be a DD...but plenty capable of handling the highway. I know a guy running the superjoints...its not a DD but it frequents the road. I think the key is to keep them "greased." I also know guys that run CTMs fine. The main reason I think id shoot for the HP44 and 9" is cost...it wouldnt be hard to find that axle set up for under 500 and its abundant. JK axles would probably be a different story. I will have to look into that u joint though...I didnt realize they were smaller...or maybe I did haha. Maybe just run RCVs
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Old 03-22-2014, 08:35 PM   #339
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By that point, the jeep wont really be a DD...but plenty capable of handling the highway. I know a guy running the superjoints...its not a DD but it frequents the road. I think the key is to keep them "greased." I also know guys that run CTMs fine. The main reason I think id shoot for the HP44 and 9" is cost...it wouldnt be hard to find that axle set up for under 500 and its abundant. JK axles would probably be a different story. I will have to look into that u joint though...I didnt realize they were smaller...or maybe I did haha. Maybe just run RCVs
I mean for me I'll still DD. and guys like Imped do the same. I agree about CTMs and greasing the superjoints... I do like 4k a year on road if that. Usually less. The 9 rear/hp44 front is cheap initially but the 44 uses 760 joints too so those will be toast on 37s. Jk has a stronger u joint. Not up to snuff for 37s still. Still gota build te axle set and bracket no matter what. I'll stick with the 8.8 since its already build up well. I've read of guys in pirate with very polished 8.8s running 40s. Jk axles definitely cost more. I just was comparing it to the JK axle as the only near stock width half ton options. It does having the strongest ring/pinion of any 44 tho. RCVs are looking good except 1400 for a hp44 or waggy length set.

Something sucks almost anyway you look at it unless its a 60. HP44 narrowed to waggy width with high steer arms and waggy RCVs sleeves and trussed with cryo'd gears would be ideal for weight vs strength for 37s. You're looking at 3 grand though.... You can do a 30 for 1800-2000 but unit bears and ball joints and brakes are basically inadequate. Not to mention steering at that point.
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:57 PM   #340
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The axle bearings are getting replaced. Are y'all saying to get the c-clip eliminator and aftermarket shafts? Also, anyone have any reviews on the auburn locker?

Also, I was dead set on 4.88's. But they talked me down to 4.56's. Can't find any hard proof of which is better or has the better rpm.
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Old 03-23-2014, 02:30 AM   #341
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Yes get the shafts. 4.56 is good.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:45 PM   #342
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Nice!!!
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:49 PM   #343
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I'm running 8.8 and waggy 44 front. Rolling on 37s with 4.56 gears. It does ok on the highway but not low enough on trail. If your still at the option phase I'd go 4.88s. Had them under my last Tj. Just my opinion though
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:45 PM   #344
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Getting started on my 8.8 build and have a question about the rear sway bar . Do I reinstall it and add brackets on it ? My Aretec truss is in transit will it have a place mount bar ? Do I need a rear sway bar ? Do I need a aftermarket sway bar like a Curry and mount to frame or can I ues stock one for a while . This is still my DD with some highway use .
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:05 PM   #345
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A friend of mine had a TJ, ditched the rear sway bar when he lifted it. He didn't have the 8.8 but I don't think it matters.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:06 PM   #346
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Good question regarding the Artec. That's on my list too
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:45 PM   #347
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It comes with brackets that go on the axle and your sway bar bolts right up. Might need to trim a little on the housing ear for clearance I think depending. I'll see if I have a pic...

You can see the flat brackets in this pic. It just bolts up right there just like stock.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:39 AM   #348
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Thanks for photo what I wanted to see hope my parts get here soon .
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:29 PM   #349
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brake backing plates

Where can I get new backing plates for the 8.8 without ging to ford ? Looked at Dorman but they do not show them for a 97 explorer
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:39 PM   #350
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The junkyard. They should all be the same.
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:00 PM   #351
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Yes I can get them there but I don't want more rusty ones
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:36 PM   #352
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Don't get rusty ones then. Haha. Just clean Em up and paint.
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:01 PM   #353
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Yea I sandblasted right thru the ones that came with the axel have all other parts cleaned and painted need some nice ones if possible
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:12 PM   #354
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Do I really need to get adjustable control arms? the tab is really adding up, I only have an Old Man Emu 2.5" lift.

Also, has anyone compared the width measurements between the dana 35 and the ford 8.8, the beginning of the post is very different from what I got:

Dana 35 61"
Ford 8.8 56 5/8"

I am gona run OEM wheels, and want to know what spacers to buy?
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:53 PM   #355
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Mine were in good condition so I don't know what to tell ya.


I would get the arms.

You measured the width wrong or have the wrong axle.
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:27 PM   #356
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Tacked all brackets up on Aertec truss and all looks good only thing is that I need to finsh all welding and paint then install gears and shafts . Has anybody had trouble with fitment after tacking truss up .? My jeep is a dayily driver and dont want to take axel out and test fit new . I feel I have been spot on with all mounts . I check mesurements after I tacked them on new axel . Any thoughts ???
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:48 PM   #357
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If I'm reading your post right id go Ahead and weld as long as you know shocks Etc will clear and bolt up. That was my issue doing it how the directions said. Apparently artec has new shock mounts now tho. They even shipped me them free!
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:20 AM   #358
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Well on my 3rd 8.8 now, SMH. The first 2 were junk straight from the get go. 1st one had grenaded carrier bearings and a case full of glitter, the second was bent, Now this one seems good. She is all tacked up and ready for a test fit. It is 3.73 LSD I am going to have to re-gear the front to match. It is currently 3.07. Anybody have any budget minded tips for re-gearing the front. It looks like it is going to cost me dang near $500 to 3.73 the front. All the salvage yards around here want $800+ for a donor D30 already geared 3.73. So that is not a option.
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:11 AM   #359
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Craigslist/forums. People toss them all the time.
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:20 PM   #360
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Well on my 3rd 8.8 now, SMH. The first 2 were junk straight from the get go. 1st one had grenaded carrier bearings and a case full of glitter, the second was bent, Now this one seems good. She is all tacked up and ready for a test fit. It is 3.73 LSD I am going to have to re-gear the front to match. It is currently 3.07. Anybody have any budget minded tips for re-gearing the front. It looks like it is going to cost me dang near $500 to 3.73 the front. All the salvage yards around here want $800+ for a donor D30 already geared 3.73. So that is not a option.
Where are you located? I know a guy that does gears for $100.

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