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Old 05-09-2016, 11:43 PM   #601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rods50 View Post
Will an "off the shelf" SYE and CV driveshaft set work with this swap??
Yes with a driveshaft of correct length. Nothing special. Ensure you adjust the axle placement and pinion angle correctly with adjustable control arms if changing to the SYE/double cardan shaft.
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:11 PM   #602
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Yes with a driveshaft of correct length. Nothing special. Ensure you adjust the axle placement and pinion angle correctly with adjustable control arms if changing to the SYE/double cardan shaft.
I used the same driveshaft that was used with my Dana 35. Just changed the flange to fit the 8.8 and bolted it right up. I bought the flange and bolts from ECGS along with the other required items to build the 8.8 such as the brake lines and cables, etc.

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Old 05-18-2016, 11:56 PM   #603
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Originally Posted by K9HDLR View Post
I used the same driveshaft that was used with my Dana 35. Just changed the flange to fit the 8.8 and bolted it right up. I bought the flange and bolts from ECGS along with the other required items to build the 8.8 such as the brake lines and cables, etc.
He asked about an SYE. Stock shaft won't work with a SYE. You can use the stock shaft fine if you aren't doing an SYE, just like you did.
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:20 PM   #604
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Starting my 8.8 project next week using the Artec Truss. Did you guys remove the axle shafts and seals before welding? Or did you weld the brackets on with the Axle shafts still in the tubes?
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:46 PM   #605
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I welded th truss with the axle an seals in place
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:19 PM   #606
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I welded th truss with the axle an seals in place
Ok...thats what I will do then.

Got my truss and flange. (Wife is not happy me doing inventory in her living room. lol)

Picking up an 8.8 in 4.10 tomorrow ($220).

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Old 06-15-2016, 06:23 PM   #607
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When I did mine I took everything out, just an empty shell. But I replaced everything other than the shafts.
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:18 PM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
Ok...thats what I will do then. Got my truss and flange. (Wife is not happy me doing inventory in her living room. lol) Picking up an 8.8 in 4.10 tomorrow ($220).
I removed everything before welding. There's a lot of welding and I didn't want to risk damaging seals, and bearings. Pretty easy to have an empty shell and I was replacing seals anyhow. Just my two cents
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Old 07-15-2016, 05:13 PM   #609
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Finally got it all configured and ready to bolt in.

Old D35 coming out..



F8.8 Ready to go in...
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Old 07-15-2016, 05:15 PM   #610
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Pic after tack welding the brackets on...

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Old 07-28-2016, 05:35 PM   #611
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Is there a brake guru here for the swap?? This has been a LONG process for me doing it a couple hours at a time and doing a few other things. After getting everything bolted together and ready I popped a brake line and replaced the two front lines. During all that it must have tripped the proportioning valve(which I cant seem to reset). Im not sure how this effects braking, but I just raised the rear end, put the jeep in drive and applied the brakes. There is enough brakes to slow the wheels down, but not enough to stop them. The jeep seems to brake about the same as it did before the swap, but there just isnt much much stopping the back wheels. Not sure what direction to go.
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:34 PM   #612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rods50 View Post
Is there a brake guru here for the swap?? This has been a LONG process for me doing it a couple hours at a time and doing a few other things. After getting everything bolted together and ready I popped a brake line and replaced the two front lines. During all that it must have tripped the proportioning valve(which I cant seem to reset). Im not sure how this effects braking, but I just raised the rear end, put the jeep in drive and applied the brakes. There is enough brakes to slow the wheels down, but not enough to stop them. The jeep seems to brake about the same as it did before the swap, but there just isnt much much stopping the back wheels. Not sure what direction to go.
I would re-bleed the system. Right rear first, then the left rear, right front, and left front...in that order.

When I did my 8.8, I only had to mess with the rear lines (and bleeding the rears). So I no quite sure why you had to mess with the front lines. I didn't have to mess with the proportioning valve at all.
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Old 08-01-2016, 03:22 PM   #613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rods50 View Post
Is there a brake guru here for the swap?? This has been a LONG process for me doing it a couple hours at a time and doing a few other things. After getting everything bolted together and ready I popped a brake line and replaced the two front lines. During all that it must have tripped the proportioning valve(which I cant seem to reset). Im not sure how this effects braking, but I just raised the rear end, put the jeep in drive and applied the brakes. There is enough brakes to slow the wheels down, but not enough to stop them. The jeep seems to brake about the same as it did before the swap, but there just isnt much much stopping the back wheels. Not sure what direction to go.
Also make sure you got the calipers on the correct sides. The bleeder valve needs to be on the top. If you put them on the wrong side the bleeder will be on the bottom and they will not bleed all the air out and you will not get good break pressure. (Don't ask me how I know this.)
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:45 PM   #614
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Also make sure you got the calipers on the correct sides. The bleeder valve needs to be on the top. If you put them on the wrong side the bleeder will be on the bottom and they will not bleed all the air out and you will not get good break pressure. (Don't ask me how I know this.)
Yep...I almost made the same mistake. This is how it should look, bleeder valve above the brake line fitting.

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Old 08-03-2016, 11:40 AM   #615
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So after having driven with the 8.8 for a few weeks now...I am overly impressed with it. Awesome stopping power now. But the unanticipated benefit is how much smoother driving my TJ is now. I don't know if it is due to the extra weight of the 8.8 on the rear, but driving feels more solid, stable and balanced.

Very glad I went this route!
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:47 PM   #616
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hey you crazy kids, I have question for those that have the artec truss. Are the bolt holes for the control arms small? I have savvy control arms with Johnny Joints. I went to go hang the rear axel and the bolt holes in the bracket are to small. Has this happened to anybody else?
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:00 AM   #617
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I had to drill mine out. IIRC, I used a 9/16" bit.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:56 AM   #618
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So after putting my hard top back on for the winter, I have noticed that I do have some slight driveline vibrations. After thinking about it, it may be impossible to get the correct geometry with the typical sye/cv shaft setup. The side to side difference between the output shaft and the pinion cant line up even with the correct pinion angle. Trying to figure out what to do now...Two cardan driveshaft?
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:17 AM   #619
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Originally Posted by Rods50 View Post
... After thinking about it, it may be impossible to get the correct geometry with the typical sye/cv shaft setup. The side to side difference between the output shaft and the pinion cant line up even with the correct pinion angle.
I feel like, because of the lateral offset, combined with the limited length of driveshaft, you have to get the (vertical) pinion angle as true as possible. The guy that put mine on adjusted the artec control arm bracket position before welding to dial in pinion angle, and did a pretty spot on job. My TJ still has factory arms in the rear, but adjustable arms will allow you to get that dialed in. I also went with a SYE & DC shaft. No vibes here except for the tires.
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Old 11-17-2016, 09:10 PM   #620
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Does your drive shaft have two cardan joints or one? Im thinking I need to replace the universal at the rear with a cardan.
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Old 11-19-2016, 02:15 AM   #621
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Originally Posted by Rods50 View Post
Does your drive shaft have two cardan joints or one? Im thinking I need to replace the universal at the rear with a cardan.
Double cardan joint at the Tcase end, single U-joint at the rear end.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:35 PM   #622
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You have to be getting vibrations. I didnt really notice mine till I put my hard top on.
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:35 AM   #623
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Originally Posted by Rods50 View Post
You have to be getting vibrations. I didnt really notice mine till I put my hard top on.
Like I said, only vibes are from a known bad tire.
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:49 PM   #624
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No vibes on mine.
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:58 AM   #625
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You have to be getting vibrations. I didnt really notice mine till I put my hard top on.
Assuming it is not a bad u-joint, I would recheck your pinion angle. I have not heard of anyone having to do a cardan at the pinion.
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Old 01-05-2017, 08:20 AM   #626
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If the pinion angle has to be "perfect", how could you ever get it that close with the offset between the transfer case and pinion? Maybe I am being a little picky, the vibration is not bad and it can only be felt when accelerating. Without a load on the driveline you cant feel it.
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:07 AM   #627
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The offset really don't seem to matter...but I do understand your concern.

This link suggests that you have the full weight on your vehicle (that means your hardtop) when setting the pinion angle. If it were me, I would try setting the pinion angle 1 degree less than your driveshaft angle. (mentioned toward the bottom of this article.)

Pinion Angle Alignment - 1
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:46 PM   #628
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So if the offset creates 3 degrees at the pinion its not as important as if the pinion angle creates 3 degrees at the pinion.(im using 3 deg for sake of argument)

I dont think a universal joint cares where the angle is coming from.

I am going to give ECGS a call to see what they think.
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:49 PM   #629
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just mounted in my ECGS 8.8 with my new 35s today the front end is getting regeared now but i will try and get some pictures when i can

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