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Old 07-25-2012, 05:08 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by TJ_pheonix View Post
just did an 8.8 swap on my 99 tj 4.0 with 31" bfg km2s stock height as of right now. bought a new rear track bar factory replacement style because I couldn't seperate the old trac bar from my d35. here is the only real problem... my tires are uncomfortably close the upper coil perch and I am unsure why. Any help would be great I cant drive it as is maybe I am missing something... I have ordered quality wheel spacers in the meantime. thanks
Your on the right track with the wheel spacers, the 8.8 is slightly narrower than the stock d35 so this will happen.

Its either less backspacing or wheel spacers to solve the problem.

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Old 07-25-2012, 05:14 PM   #62
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I knew it was narrower but I never thought it would be so close(tip of an index finger barely fit). in all of my reading no one has mentioned it being a problem. I suppose with any lift at all it would clear and be problem free but Im trying to keep function as a dd. thanks I hope my alloy spacers get here before Friday so I can take her out and try it.

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Old 08-03-2012, 09:29 PM   #63
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Im really contemplating one from East Coast.Is a limited slip comparable to a locker? Would a limited slip be a good idea in a off road vehicle?
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:44 PM   #64
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Hey guys which axle u guys think is better to go for between these two 8.8? Top one comes of 98 explorer with 5.0l. With over 150,000 miles n botton 2000 explorer 5 speed tranny 2 door with 75,000 miles.


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Old 08-05-2012, 01:58 PM   #65
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Im really contemplating one from East Coast.Is a limited slip comparable to a locker? Would a limited slip be a good idea in a off road vehicle?
limited slip will never truly lock the axle. It will apply resistance to the spinning wheel, but it is unable to lock the two wheels together like a locker can. Limited slip differentials are much cheaper and you dont have to run any cables, wires, or air hoses like you do with a locker. Lockers will be much better offroad than a limited slip could ever be, but many, like me, run a limited slip because its my daily driver and I dont have the funds to install a full locker
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:13 PM   #66
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let me know how you set it up and how it works i really wanna get rid of my track bar in the rear, has clearence issues with the gas tank skid. i am running a 4.5 RE SF short arm lift
I was thinking just weld a mount to the top of the truss but i cant find any upper 3 link arms that dont come with a truss
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:17 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by TJ_pheonix
I knew it was narrower but I never thought it would be so close(tip of an index finger barely fit). in all of my reading no one has mentioned it being a problem. I suppose with any lift at all it would clear and be problem free but Im trying to keep function as a dd. thanks I hope my alloy spacers get here before Friday so I can take her out and try it.
I am running a 4.5 inch lift with my 8.8 and 35s i have yet to have s clearence issue with the coil spring perch but it is still very close. I am probably going to run some spacers to be safe. Also my rims have a 3.5 backspace
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:05 PM   #68
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My question is why is the 8.8 swap so popular when the Ford 9in is such a strong rear axle? I think the 9in is a 28 spline but it can be upgraded I believe.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:21 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by 1jeeplvr
My question is why is the 8.8 swap so popular when the Ford 9in is such a strong rear axle? I think the 9in is a 28 spline but it can be upgraded I believe.
More common, less expensive and not a huge difference in strength when it comes to offroading.

If you need stronger than a 8.8, just step to 1 tons, no need for marginal gain for the expense.
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:24 AM   #70
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Great Thread - I just bought a 8.8 complete Drum to Drum (355s) I think for 100.00 - Going to start building it soon
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:51 AM   #71
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Great Thread - I just bought a 8.8 complete Drum to Drum (355s) I think for 100.00 - Going to start building it soon
Drum? What did you get it out of?
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:37 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by Redsand

Drum? What did you get it out of?
It should have dish brakes not drums from 95- 2001.
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:51 PM   #73
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this is great got an offer on a 8.8 ready for install with matching gears to my front, new disc brakes and 31 spline for 300$ very excited about it. this thread will help out a lot!
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:04 PM   #74
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Im getting mine from East Coast with a E locker. is it worth going with upgraded axles? Also Im starting with 3.07 gears.Will 4.10 gears make a huge improvement?
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:12 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by 1jeeplvr View Post
Im getting mine from East Coast with a E locker. is it worth going with upgraded axles? Also Im starting with 3.07 gears.Will 4.10 gears make a huge improvement?
It depends on what your set up is. If you are going with 33s or 35s you are most likely gonna want 4.56 or 4.88s (depending on engine and transmission). So if you are gonna pay ECGS to install a R&P you might as well pay them for what you want so it only has to be done once. That is just my opinion though. Just remember though, no matter what is in the rear, it will need to match the front.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:15 PM   #76
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It depends on what your set up is. If you are going with 33s or 35s you are most likely gonna want 4.56 or 4.88s (depending on engine and transmission). So if you are gonna pay ECGS to install a R&P you might as well pay them for what you want so it only has to be done once. That is just my opinion though. Just remember though, no matter what is in the rear, it will need to match the front.
Thanks for the input.Originally I was going to go 4.56 but thought it would be too much gear.I keep going back and forth on it.BTW its a 5sp,4.0L 33x12.5 rubber.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:28 PM   #77
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Thanks for the input.Originally I was going to go 4.56 but thought it would be too much gear.I keep going back and forth on it.BTW its a 5sp,4.0L 33x12.5 rubber.
With that combination 4.56 will put you back into the stock powerband. I think 4.10 or 4.56 is acceptable...but most guys with that setup will choose the 4.56 over 4.10.

So now I guess it depends on when you want to spend the money...either now and have ECGS install it and have your front axle done separate by someone else...or you wait and have someone do both axles at the same time.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:32 PM   #78
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I just pulled up the axles on ECGS...

3.07 gears dont appear to be a factory setup for the 8.8...so you would be forced to pay an extra 550 dollars for these. If you are going to spend that kind of money I would DEFINITELY upgrade to the ratio you need. 3.07s isnt really adequate for 33s...so Id defintely consider paying the LESSER 535 towards 4.56 rather than wasting it on 3.07s.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:08 PM   #79
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Scoobyjeep, I just recently finished with the 8.8 swap and I used the Artec kit. I love it and everything works perfect for me. I have a long arm lift in so not sure how much difference there is to the short arm.
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:58 PM   #80
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Now Im back to wanting 4.56's. Its like a ping pong game with me lol.Seems that way for most of my decisions & somehow everything USUALLY turns out ok.
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Old 09-02-2012, 11:04 PM   #81
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I put 4.88's in my 97 TJ. That's with a Ford 8.8 in the rear, Dana 30 front. It has a 2.5l 4 cylinder, 5 speed, and 35" BFG mud terrains. I would have gone with a lower ratio, but 4.88 is the lowest you can go with the Dana 30. This setup makes 4th gear sort of usable on the highway, and you can use 5th once in a while going down hill. When I bought the Jeep it still had the Dana 35 in the rear, 4.10 gears. The jeep drove ok with that setup, even here at altitude in Reno. However, it did dog it up hills. Bottom line - go with the lower range gears!
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Old 09-02-2012, 11:29 PM   #82
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There were a couple of questions about limited slips in the rear axle. I put Detroit Truetracs front and rear in one of my trucks (a D90). Not quite the performance of full lockers, but I use the Defender as my daily driver. I'm also going through the Rubicon again this next week, and it chugs through with no issues.

On a TJ (like my 97) which is really RWD most of the time a limited slip is much better for a daily driver. Less stress on the axles, and way better performance than an open diff. I'm a fan of helical gear limited slips like the Truetrac or much more expensive Quaife compared to any of the clutch type (although I have the ford traclock in the rear of the Jeep). There's a great deal of useful info on gears, differentials, lockers etc. on the Great Basin Rovers website - gbrutah.com. Bill Davis, the owner, has a huge amount of experience with heavy duty drivetrains and it's worth listening to his opinions.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:01 PM   #83
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Hey guys I stared workin on the swap from d35 to 8.8. Now I need advice on what gears I should have. I'm running 33'x10.50x15. I got d30 on front. Stock suspention, on my 8.8 I got 373 gear. I'm not into off road as I would like to but I stay more on the beach n highway. Ne advice would be appreciated!
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:56 PM   #84
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hey Pedro, I have 33's also and went with 4.56 gears. i dont think you will be dissapointed. I also installed a new speedo gear too to get the speedo back to normal.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:29 PM   #85
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hey Pedro, I have 33's also and went with 4.56 gears. i dont think you will be dissapointed. I also installed a new speedo gear too to get the speedo back to normal.
Cool man! Yeah I'm gona go with those but things change I had the money for the sway but now I don't so I'm gonna have to wait to get it back since I'm planning on doin the swap to the 8.8 plus new gears.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:33 PM   #86
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hey Pedro, I have 33's also and went with 4.56 gears. i dont think you will be dissapointed. I also installed a new speedo gear too to get the speedo back to normal.
Hey u do have the 4.56 fron n rear right? What set up u got? D35 rear n d30 front? Or somethingelse
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:27 PM   #87
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Great info, thanks!!
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:33 PM   #88
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Does anyone knows if I need to cut these brakets off or not?meanwhile I got a few pics on my swap.

Attachment 173707



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Old 10-30-2012, 06:36 PM   #89
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I havent had a problem with those brackets on mine. I also believe that I still have that plug in my 8.8. You should be good. If you plan on using the stock swaybar though, you will probably have to shave a little off of the diff for it to clear.
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:51 PM   #90
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I havent had a problem with those brackets on mine. I also believe that I still have that plug in my 8.8. You should be good. If you plan on using the stock swaybar though, you will probably have to shave a little off of the diff for it to clear.
Both brakets or the one by the pinion? N yeah I might have to use the stock swaybar. Got pics on ur swaybar?

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