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Old 11-09-2012, 04:53 PM   #121
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Hey guys, I'm just reading into the swap and I have a question, what's the difference between the 8.8 and the 9? Which is better for a TJ and what's a good price for just the axle before mounting brackets and all that. Thanks, ill read though the thread to try and find answers but I thought I'd ask meantime.

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Old 11-14-2012, 10:33 PM   #122
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I lucked up and found a wrecked tj that already had a 8.8 with the right gears under it. $500 n 2 afternoons n I was rolling. Research the various options on the 8.8 as there are a lot of them.

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Old 11-17-2012, 09:06 PM   #123
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I dunno why I didn't think of this earlier...but with the limited slip that came in my 8.8 I was putting synthetic in the diff, without needing to add friction modifier. For 4 quarts it was running around 35-40 to do it...more than an oil change lol. Well I am getting ready to put a SOLID diff cover on and thought I'd price out the cost of regular oil with friction modifier...4 quarts plus the modifier ran me about 26 dollars. A ten dollar savings...I'll probably put the fluid in tomorrow with the fancy new cover
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:39 AM   #124
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Im just glad my jeep came with the optional dana 44 in the back..
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:10 AM   #125
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Can anyone tell me how much the different length of the adapter flange on the 8.8 impacts the proper length of driveshaft for the swap?

And can anyone confirm the issue with driveline vibrations/operating angles of the stock driveshaft with the 8.8/stock driveshaft. I would like to get by without the sye/cv for a little while longer if possible til I get stuff for a tuck bought.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:33 AM   #126
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She is in the yard, soon to be in the garage. So the journey begins.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:51 PM   #127
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She is in the yard, soon to be in the garage. So the journey begins.
Have fun n take ur time!
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:05 PM   #128
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Have fun n take ur time!
She's not going in til summer, gota get the bracket kit brakes e brakes flange adapter sye driveshaft and belly skid bought up. Just gona clean her up, check the clutch on the LSD and get the brackets off and prime it this winter as a little side project. I got bored with nothing to do. The local parks shut down for the winter.
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Old 12-01-2012, 07:12 PM   #129
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Here's how mine's sitting at the moment. We have 2 we are building. One's going in my TJ, the other in my stepfather's YJ. Still have to decide if I'm going to attempt the regear myself or pay. Have to build the Waggy 44 as well.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:33 PM   #130
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Great info guys! cant wait to start my 8.8 build .
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:34 AM   #131
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Ok so let me just come right out and ask this, so if I'm reading this right all I need to do this swap is a 8.8 out of a explorer, tj brackets, and a yoke adapter to get me rolling, is that right? Looking at doing this since the spiders on my d35 just crapped out on me.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:56 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by 98 tj sport
Ok so let me just come right out and ask this, so if I'm reading this right all I need to do this swap is a 8.8 out of a explorer, tj brackets, and a yoke adapter to get me rolling, is that right? Looking at doing this since the spiders on my d35 just crapped out on me.
There is a pretty good change you will need a sye/ new driveshaft. The pinion is offset to the side about 2 inches more than a d35. And is a little longer. Some people have done them without. One good thing is you can set up the axle and brackets providing the correct pinion angle and avoid adjustable control arms. They are still a good idea to dial your angle I perfectly but you can definitely run without them if you set it up correctly.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:42 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

There is a pretty good change you will need a sye/ new driveshaft. The pinion is offset to the side about 2 inches more than a d35. And is a little longer. Some people have done them without. One good thing is you can set up the axle and brackets providing the correct pinion angle and avoid adjustable control arms. They are still a good idea to dial your angle I perfectly but you can definitely run without them if you set it up correctly.
Well that just raised the cost a lot dangit, found an axle for 200, figured another 300 for the brakets and adapters and such, with the added sye and driveshaft that's another 500 or so, looks like imma try and find some spider gears for this crappy 35 till I can save cash for the swap.
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:40 PM   #134
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Originally Posted by 98 tj sport

Well that just raised the cost a lot dangit, found an axle for 200, figured another 300 for the brakets and adapters and such, with the added sye and driveshaft that's another 500 or so, looks like imma try and find some spider gears for this crappy 35 till I can save cash for the swap.
Yeah it's cheap but not dirt cheap. Sure you can get away without it but if you DD you want the sye/cv.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:44 PM   #135
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I have a 2000 tj wrangler and i wanted to know if i had to get a certain year on the explorer or mountaineer to be able to swap to the 8.8? And would i be able to swap both the front and rear ? Thanks 915-422-8171 if you have a chance to reply =) thanks
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:32 AM   #136
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I think u want a 96 or newer as they've got disk brakes n some have factory lim slips n 4.10 gearing. You'll need aftermarket e brake cables or fab something. I've never heard of a 8.8 front, all explorers I've ever seen are either ifs or wishbone up front. So you can only source rear from that. Depending on how big your going the Dana 30 from a Cherokee goes well with the 8.8. It's a high pinion n is sup to be a stronger unit than the tj 30. I'm building an 88 waggoneer Dana 44 to go on my 01. I've been dabbing brackets for bout 2 months now for bit. To swap an axle that's not set up for tj coil susp I'd plan on a pro doing it. Lot of work n headache to do yourself. I'll never do it again.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:50 PM   #137
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I have been through this thread a few times and I haven't seen this, though I might have missed it. I was wondering if I am running 3.73 gears in my Jeep currently, and I get an 8.8 with 3.73 gears, will these be compatible or are the 3.73 gears different somehow?
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:03 PM   #138
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I have been through this thread a few times and I haven't seen this, though I might have missed it. I was wondering if I am running 3.73 gears in my Jeep currently, and I get an 8.8 with 3.73 gears, will these be compatible or are the 3.73 gears different somehow?
they will be compatible with the front 3.73s. don't go trying to install your jeep gears in the 8.8 or vice versa though.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:29 PM   #139
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I'm doing the 8.8 swap I was wondering what the pinion angle needed to be before I weld the brackets. I have a four inch lift and I am going to use a sye and cv drive shaft. Also how do you measure the driveline length to order from Tom woods when the offset is in there?
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:51 PM   #140
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I'm doing the 8.8 swap I was wondering what the pinion angle needed to be before I weld the brackets. I have a four inch lift and I am going to use a sye and cv drive shaft. Also how do you measure the driveline length to order from Tom woods when the offset is in there?
at 4.5 i think mine is in the 25 to 30 degree angle, do you have an sye kit, and a double carden join drive line or transfer case drop, it does matter, i do recommend at least adjustable upper control arms
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:18 PM   #141
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Yes I am getting a double cardan from Tom Woods I'm just not sure how to measure it since the pumpkin is offset on the 8.8.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:03 AM   #142
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Ok so I'm fixing to start working on my swap and was wondering, what u guys thought was more needed; a sye and dc shaft, or adjustable control arms, I know both are recommened, but I only have 1000 to spend right now on the swap, and I'm figuring around 500 for the axle and the artec truss leaving me 500 for either the sye and driveshaft or the arms, I'm leaning more toward the sye and driveshaft so that I can also get rid of my transfercase drop to give me a little more clearence, and plus I think I can get the pinion angle pretty close since I am going to weld the brackets on anyway, but just wanted to c what u guys thought
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:15 PM   #143
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As long as you are very careful and smart about setting your pinion angle you don't need the arms. That's what I am doing. Save up for the arms after and slap them on for some fine adjustment, but I am not going to unless I need to because I will be converting to a triangulated 4 link in a few years and don't see the point in spending money on expensive links I wont use. Just make sure you account for the little bit of axle wrap under throttle so your pinion angle is set for what it would be under power, not at rest.
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:30 PM   #144
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As long as you are very careful and smart about setting your pinion angle you don't need the arms. That's what I am doing. Save up for the arms after and slap them on for some fine adjustment, but I am not going to unless I need to because I will be converting to a triangulated 4 link in a few years and don't see the point in spending money on expensive links I wont use. Just make sure you account for the little bit of axle wrap under throttle so your pinion angle is set for what it would be under power, not at rest.
Didn't think our tjs experienced axle wrap??? Any idea how to account for that, this is news to me didn't know about that.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:12 PM   #145
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Didn't think our tjs experienced axle wrap??? Any idea how to account for that, this is news to me didn't know about that.
That may be the wrong term for it, but yes the pinion angle changes by around 2 degrees based on how much throttle it is under. It's more like just ever so slight axle wrap (nothing compared to a YJ or other leaf springs) and the suspension change because of the weight shift. Let me dig up a few threads on it.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:14 PM   #146
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That may be the wrong term for it, but yes the pinion angle changes by around 2 degrees based on how much throttle it is under. It's more like just ever so slight axle wrap (nothing compared to a YJ or other leaf springs) and the suspension change because of the weight shift. Let me dig up a few threads on it.
Youd mean deflection of the bushings while under torque. On the road itll be very very minimal, offroad still minimal.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:24 PM   #147
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"Some folks prefer to have the pinion angle about 1 degree less than the drive shaft angle. The reasoning here is that when you apply power to the rear axle, it will load the rear axle a bit and the pinion will lift a small amount. I don't have a problem with this and if you want to set yours up that way, it is just fine. I have cartridge joints on my lift and so there is no rubber bushings to compress when power is applied....so I really won't see much of a pinion angle change when I apply power to the rear axle. If this were a YJ, with leaf springs, then you would want to set your pinion several degrees below the drive shaft as the springs will allow some axle wrap which will cause the pinion to lift upwards when power is applied. "

Pinion Angle Alignment - 1

There are quite a few on pirate as well.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:26 PM   #148
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Youd mean deflection of the bushings while under torque. On the road itll be very very minimal, offroad still minimal.
Yep that's the term I was looking for, plus how the momentum shifts the center of gravity to the back, like why the front end rises when you accelerate and drops when you brake, affects the angle slightly under drive. When not doing adjustable arms it's important to get it right down to the nitty gritty single angles.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:37 PM   #149
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Ok one more question, I was thinking I might go with the artec truss but I saw a set of brackets on mad4wd I think it was for 200, have u heard anything good/bad about these, don't really think ill need the truss, biggest I ever plan on going is 35s, and that would save me a little over 100$ to go toward rear upper control arms, also since the weak points of the 8.8 are the case and that they are c clip what are u planning on doing to help there, I was thinking of puttin in a detroit and possibly doing a c clip eliminator but idk about that since the 8.8 has disc brakes doesn't that keep the axle from walking n the event of a break?
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:01 PM   #150
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Ok one more question, I was thinking I might go with the artec truss but I saw a set of brackets on mad4wd I think it was for 200, have u heard anything good/bad about these, don't really think ill need the truss, biggest I ever plan on going is 35s, and that would save me a little over 100$ to go toward rear upper control arms, also since the weak points of the 8.8 are the case and that they are c clip what are u planning on doing to help there, I was thinking of puttin in a detroit and possibly doing a c clip eliminator but idk about that since the 8.8 has disc brakes doesn't that keep the axle from walking n the event of a break?
My possibly best jeep friend used those brackets on this 8.8, and they have had no issues. we wheel rausch creek, rock run, and lots of local places here in PA with no issues with them. I am going with the truss so it's easy to tri 4link later and to run 37s. With 35s I think you should be fine with the stock unlocked axle, if you plan on locking it you could do the c-clip elim and that would make the axle stock width again as well. the 8.8 is a stout axle and I wouldn't worry about any "weak links" with 35s.

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