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Old 11-27-2012, 01:38 PM   #1
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Battery problems

The last couple of mornings that it was cold the tj wont start. It just acts like the battery is going bad. I had it tested this am and it checked out. Rated at 500 CCA and came in at 459 CCA. with 13.18 volts. It looks like the battery is about 8 years old so I thought for sure it would be just need a new battery. Tonight I will take the cables off the post and take the wire brush to it. Any other ideas? The battery takes a charge ok.

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Old 11-27-2012, 01:48 PM   #2
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that might not be enough cca when it's cold..if you buy a new one you might want to get a more powerful one

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Old 11-27-2012, 02:32 PM   #3
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That might be worth trying. I think it calls for a size 34. I have only owned it for about a month but its never really just fired up really strong like most vehicles i'm used too.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:12 PM   #4
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It looks like the battery is about 8 years old




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Any other ideas?

Buy a Diehard Platinum - 850 cold cranking amps and $20 off as of now.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:51 PM   #5
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I'll be getting mine tomorrow. Current battery is status/age unknown, and with Diehards being on sale...
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:53 PM   #6
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500 cca seems low to me but, something to check are the cables running both to your starter and your grounding wire. If you have corrosion around the cable ends or just inside the insulation where they have been stripped it could be that your cables are not up to handling the amps. Try cleaning the terminal ends and check those out, however a 8 year old battery I would plan to replace anyway. If running a winch I would also look at getting a deep cycle and I generaly get a marine/industrial grade.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:04 PM   #7
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X2 on 500 CCA not being much, and deschte's advice to check the battery connections is very astute.

Remove both battery connectors & then use a wire battery brush to clean the posts and inside of the connectors so they are bright & shiny clean. Then reinstall them and tighten the clamp nuts so the connectors can't be twisted/rotated/moved around with your hands.

Doing that will help that 550 CCA battery put out all the power it is capable of... not to mention take care of any intermittent connection problem that is usually the root cause of the problem you described.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:09 AM   #8
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When I looked at the battery it looks like it says sept 04. Its an Interstate. I took the battery cables off last night and cleaned them up. I didnt check the cables on the other end though. This morning it barley started. It seems like the longer it sits the weaker the battery gets. I think mabe Ill get a new battery and go from there. I thougt maybe there was something drawing from the battery that Im not aware of but Im not sure what that would be.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:31 AM   #9
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Looking at the battery again and cant find any model # or any rating info on it. I think the guy at sams found that 500 cca # from his book. I think my TJ is listed as needing 500 CCA.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:38 AM   #10
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Buy a Diehard Platinum - 850 cold cranking amps and $20 off as of now.

$200 for a battery
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:40 AM   #11
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In our jeep one of the cells cracked due to cold and probably other reasons but it would always die or take a few cranks to start. Ended up being a battery with 700 cca I think (not too knowledgeable in batteries) and the thing turns over no problem on a cold day even after sitting for a week.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:41 AM   #12
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Looking at the battery again and cant find any model # or any rating info on it. I think the guy at sams found that 500 cca # from his book. I think my TJ is listed as needing 500 CCA.
for just a few dollars more you can get one with 8 or 900 cca's.It will be much better and won't hurt your jeep in any way
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:16 AM   #13
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for just a few dollars more you can get one with 8 or 900 cca's.It will be much better and won't hurt your jeep in any way
Higher CCA's are obtained through the use of thinner plates. Thinner plates shorten battery life. When it comes to CCA's, less can be more.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:28 AM   #14
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I found a Bosch at pep boys that is 950 ca and 770 cca. It has a $20 rebate and you can use there $25 off of $100 coupon so should be around $70.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:32 AM   #15
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I found a Bosch at pep boys that is 950 ca and 770 cca. It has a $20 rebate and you can use there $25 off of $100 coupon so should be around $70.
not bad
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:06 PM   #16
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Sale on Diehards ended yesterday apparently, either that or it was on internet purchase only. In any case, I've got a new battery now.

For those in doubt, it's 48 month full replacement warranty, then the next 52 months is a prorated warranty.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:23 PM   #17
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$200 for a battery

and worth every penny.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:35 AM   #18
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So I bought the DieHard Platinum a week or two ago, and noticed an issue tonight. I was running a dedicated wire to the stereo so it will run hot (so I don't need the key to run the stereo). The battery terminals, even when completely tightened down, are not tight. They're not going to fall off, but I can pull them off relatively easily. I have not had any electrical issues since installing the battery.

I thought about giving it a little 'southern engineering' and just cutting up an aluminum can and giving each terminal one wrap of it, but I'd rather do it right.

Has anyone else run into this? AFAIK, they're the stock wires. I was going to replace them, but it's a PITA to find out what to replace them with. None of the auto parts stores I looked at had listings for individual vehicles - you just have to measure and figure it out. I wasn't prepared, so it didn't happen, at least not yet.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:33 AM   #19
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Both of my top leads were that way. I modified the connector on the cables. Pulled the bolt and cut about 1/16th" off one side so it would tighten down more.



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Old 11-29-2012, 09:36 AM   #20
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Here's how to fix your battery terminals so they fit tight again... it's free, easy, and takes maybe 10 minutes.

Look at the connectors and you will notice they are loose because the gap that allows them to clamp around the battery is gone... the gap has disappeared & you can't tighten them any tighter than the gap is allowing them.

Remove the nut & bolt that clamps the connector shut. Use a Dremel tool or hack saw blade to cut maybe 1/8" from both sides of the gap. The material is lead so it is easily cut. That will give you a 1/4" gap that will allow the connector to be tightened securely again.

Not only that but you should connect your stereo to the Power Distribution Center's 12v feed stud on the rear of the PDC instead of the battery itself. The 12v feed/power stud is directly in front of the battery under a small snap-off cover at the rear of the PDC. Not inside the PDC itself where the fuses/relays are, under the separate cover where the battery connects to it. The stud has a nut on it you can remove to place another ring connector on to power yoru stereo/cb/etc.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:53 AM   #21
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Not only that but you should connect your stereo to the Power Distribution Center's 12v feed stud on the rear of the PDC instead of the battery itself. The 12v feed/power stud is directly in front of the battery under a small snap-off cover at the rear of the PDC. Not inside the PDC itself where the fuses/relays are, under the separate cover where the battery connects to it. The stud has a nut on it you can remove to place another ring connector on to power yoru stereo/cb/etc.
May I ask why not directly on the battery itself? Just curious.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:22 AM   #22
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May I ask why not directly on the battery itself? Just curious.
does not hurt to go directly if you use an inline fuse.I hook the fuse directly to the terminal so that the entire line will be isolated in case of a short
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:23 AM   #23
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Okay gotcha. Yeah I have inline fuses on my amp and cb wires that I run straight to the battery
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:33 AM   #24
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May I ask why not directly on the battery itself? Just curious.
Just because once you see the 12v stud, you'll immediately see that it's the ideal point from which to pick up 12v for your radios. Plus its attach point is under that snap-off cover that makes for a cleaner look & installation.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:24 PM   #25
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Just because once you see the 12v stud, you'll immediately see that it's the ideal point from which to pick up 12v for your radios. Plus its attach point is under that snap-off cover that makes for a cleaner look & installation.
I'll have to look at that tonight. I did use an inline fuse, so I'm OK there. After reading your post and seeing the pics in the post above, I realize I'm not stock. They're not the 'normal' lead terminals, but cheap-feeling steel. There is a nut on the positive one, which is where I connected the wire, so it does look clean. The stud you mentioned may still be better, and I should have just enough length to reach it.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:40 AM   #26
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Well I checked and cleaned the cables on the starter and ground and still the same. I picked up a Bosch battery at Pep Boys this mourning. I was abel to get one with 1000 CA and 850 CCA for $59. Never had a Bosch before so we will see.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:47 AM   #27
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Well I checked and cleaned the cables on the starter and ground and still the same. I picked up a Bosch battery at Pep Boys this mourning. I was abel to get one with 1000 CA and 850 CCA for $59. Never had a Bosch before so we will see.
thats a heck of a deal
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:24 AM   #28
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New battery seems to have fixed the problem.

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