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Old 03-21-2013, 04:12 PM   #1
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Bent Frame.... Take a look.

So, this happened a while back and I am finally planning on getting this fixed.

First, I want to say that the triangle of death is a nono

Secondly, where should I take this to be fixed? What kind of craftsman would you trust to fix this?

I want it done right and it's gonna cost what it cost.

Heres a few pics. It's the same on the other end too.

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Old 03-21-2013, 04:46 PM   #2
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Any body and collision repair shop will be able to fix it. I had the same thing happen when I got in a wreck. The front tow hook peeled the frame horn back like how yours is. As for cost just go to different body collision shops to get estimates

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Old 03-21-2013, 04:50 PM   #3
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If you're handy with a torch, hammer, and a pry bar that could be easily fixed in a few minutes..
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:36 PM   #4
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If you're handy with a torch, hammer, and a pry bar that could be easily fixed in a few minutes..
X2, saw my buddy straightening a frame out on a truck, hammer, pry bar and a torch worked pretty well
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:55 PM   #5
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Are you sure a torch and hammer will be enough, considering bumpers/recovery points are going to be transmitting all that force through the frame at those locations?
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:35 PM   #6
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Are you sure a torch and hammer will be enough, considering bumpers/recovery points are going to be transmitting all that force through the frame at those locations?
Might need a pry bar, as well as some long bolts threaded into the holes to help straighten it. Yes, it can be done.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:54 PM   #7
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If you can find a bolt long enough thread it through the bottom until it touches the other side. Then take a torch and heat the top and tighten the bottom bolt. It might take some persuasion with a bfh but I feel like it would be easier to push the dent out then hammer it flat.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:15 PM   #8
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If you can find a bolt long enough thread it through the bottom until it touches the other side. Then take a torch and heat the top and tighten the bottom bolt. It might take some persuasion with a bfh but I feel like it would be easier to push the dent out then hammer it flat.
No, you can't hammer it flat from the top as-is, but I'll guarantee a hammer will come in handy on the final flattening of the top.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:21 PM   #9
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No, you can't hammer it flat from the top as-is, but I'll guarantee a hammer will come in handy on the final flattening of the top.
That's why you use the bolt from the bottom to press the dent up either close to flat or more than flat while heating it then you would flatten it.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:25 PM   #10
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That's why you use the bolt from the bottom to press the dent up either close to flat or more than flat while heating it then you would flatten it.
The pushed down section can't be pushed up in a linear fashion, as it's not pushed straight down so simply using a bolt as a jack screw won't work very well. The end of the bolt will need to travel sideways where it's pressing on the lower inside of the frame rail as it's tightened up. I'd thread a bolt in, heat bent section, and put a small pipe over the head end of the bolt and pull it sideways to pull that section up.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:28 PM   #11
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Or put the end of a pry bar on the tubular cross member and pull up while heating.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:30 PM   #12
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But these are just my opinions on what I'd do based on 25 or so years of experience in welding and fabrication.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:43 PM   #13
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This.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H

thread a bolt in, heat bent section, and put a small pipe over the head end of the bolt and pull it sideways to pull that section up.

Then this
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H
Or put the end of a pry bar on the tubular cross member and pull up while heating.

Or this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJspeed
Any body and collision repair shop will be able to fix it. As for cost just go to different body collision shops to get estimates
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:53 PM   #14
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Take it to a collision shop, this whole hammer bolt thingy wont work. Most likely the bolt will push the bottom section of the frame down since it hasnt been work hardened and heating the end of your frame rails without knowing what your doing is asking for trouble. If you get it to hot you will ruin the integrity of the metal ( red hot is too hot) newer frames can only be heated to a certain temp for a certain amount of time.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:59 PM   #15
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Take it to a collision shop, this whole hammer bolt thingy wont work. Most likely the bolt will push the bottom section of the frame down since it hasnt been work hardened and heating the end of your frame rails without knowing what your doing is asking for trouble. If you get it to hot you will ruin the integrity of the metal ( red hot is too hot) newer frames can only be heated to a certain temp for a certain amount of time.
If red hot is too hot, how do you explain all the non failed areas on frames that are welded and I guarantee you they were red hot and if they weren't, the weld didn't penetrate?
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:12 PM   #16
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If red hot is too hot, how do you explain all the non failed areas on frames that are welded and I guarantee you they were red hot and if they weren't, the weld didn't penetrate?
You dont splice newer frames like you can the older frames. Its a liability. Yes you weld on frames, yes you weld on sheet metal and it gets red hot, and yes you need adequate penetration but its a consolidated heat and its why you use air blowers to cool the area when done. Heating a 6" section of a frame horn for several minutes repeatedly is going to ruin the metal
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:40 PM   #17
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Only the front 2 or 3 inches need to be red hot. The rest can be protected with wet (soaked) rags. That repair should take about 5 minutes a side, total, and won't cause any harm. I guarantee it'll support the bumper safely when finished.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:54 PM   #18
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You dont splice newer frames like you can the older frames. Its a liability. Yes you weld on frames, yes you weld on sheet metal and it gets red hot, and yes you need adequate penetration but its a consolidated heat and its why you use air blowers to cool the area when done. Heating a 6" section of a frame horn for several minutes repeatedly is going to ruin the metal
I wouldn't call the technology in the TJ frame anything resembling "newer". It is formed on a mandrel bender, it's not hydroformed, it's not special steel, and it welds, takes heat, and does what you need it to with normal fabrication skills just fine.

I've cut up, hacked, sawed, welded, plasma cut, stretched, shortened, bobbed, and outboarded shocks on at least 50 of them with exactly zero issues.

I would take a rose bud and a prybar to the frame horn so fast your head would spin and when I was done, it would not fail.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:00 PM   #19
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I would take a rose bud and a prybar to the frame horn so fast your head would spin and when I was done, it would not fail.
That's what I'm saying.. That's a 5 minute per side job, and I guarantee the bumper will fit as good or better than it did from the factory, and be just as strong.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:03 PM   #20
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Are you sure a torch and hammer will be enough, considering bumpers/recovery points are going to be transmitting all that force through the frame at those locations?
keep in mind, when these guys say torch, they don't mean a propane handheld unit. it won't get hot enough. these guys are talking about the real deal - an oxygen-acetylene torch. if you watch someone who is really skilled with an oxy-acet torch, they could straighten that out, with minimal hammer and pry bar use, in minutes without problem.

if you're that worried about metallurgy changes, wrap it up in a tin foil and a welding blanket and let it cool slowly for an hour....but i can assure you that you will never noticed the difference.

they've been building bridges and skyscrapers with welding & oxygen-acetylene torches for over a century. with skill, it's perfectly fine for your Jeep's frame to.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:08 PM   #21
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if you're that worried about metallurgy changes, wrap it up in a tin foil and a welding blanket and let it cool slowly for an hour....but i can assure you that you will never noticed the difference.
Slow cooling will anneal it, making it more ductile. I'd be tempted to speed up the cooling process a bit to return it to slightly harder than dead-soft.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:11 PM   #22
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Slow cooling will anneal it, making it more ductile. I'd be tempted to speed up the cooling process a bit to return it to slightly harder than dead-soft.
the mass of the rest of the frame will suck so much heat out of that so fast it's all inconsequential.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:19 PM   #23
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the mass of the rest of the frame will suck so much heat out of that so fast it's all inconsequential.
Probably. But it's probably what I'd do.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:26 PM   #24
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:31 PM   #25
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Re: Bent Frame.... Take a look.

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Slow cooling will anneal it, making it more ductile. I'd be tempted to speed up the cooling process a bit to return it to slightly harder than dead-soft.
X2. And to the OP. If you do no understand the how steels properties change when heated and cooled at different speeds and temps, I would get a few bids from collision shops and go from there.
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:46 AM   #26
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Thanks for all of the responses and feedback. Really pleased this is an "easy" fix. I don't have the tools or knowledge for something like this and it is comforting to know that anyone worth their salt should be able to fix this easily without messing up my front end.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:09 AM   #27
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I'd probably charge .5-.8hr or so to repair that.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:59 AM   #28
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Showing results for info purposes. Not meaning to necro.

Charged me 170 to get both fixed.



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