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Old 01-18-2014, 07:20 PM   #1
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Lightbulb Bigger lifts on Rubicon

Hey forum, I have a quick question.
First off, what all is involved in getting a 4 inch lift on a TJ? I know there is a lot of other stuff besides the TCase drop, what else is there? If all that stuff if required for a 4 inch lift why not just get a 5 inch lift. Also, on a rubicon, since they have a bigger ratio, do you need to regear if you get 35's

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Old 01-18-2014, 07:35 PM   #2
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From what I've heard you might need to redo your brakelines, you'll have to improve steering geometry through an extended trackbar. Also a SYE kit is supposed to be the "correct" way to fix driveline changes instead of a t-case drop but its also a lot more expensive. I know there is a lot more too it, but thats what i know off the top of my head.

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Old 01-18-2014, 07:42 PM   #3
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If you have a rubicon you'd just need the cv shaft since it is bolt-on at the TC. Brake lines if you disconnect and like he said steering upgrades
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:48 PM   #4
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and yes to a regear (4.56 would be my choice) and you'll also need to upgrade your brakes...black magic makes a great kit on a "budget"...oh, and depending on the kit you get, might wanna get new control arms (front and rear/upper and lower) as well as front and rear track bars unless you get a nice complete lift.
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:14 PM   #5
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what if i went with a 3 inch suspension lift, 1 inch body lift and 33's what other mods would i need to do?
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:24 PM   #6
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Need? We Jeep owners throw that word around a lot.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:27 PM   #7
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Need? We Jeep owners throw that word around a lot.
lol when i say need i mean " anything i can do to prolong the life of my jeeps mechanical parts to their maximum lifespan"
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:32 PM   #8
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You could do 2.5" coils and a body lift. In some cases you wouldn't have to make any other changes. I'm browsing my options too. Just have too many expenses right now. I'm probably going to with ome eventually so I can get metal cloaks later and then fit 35 or bigger. It's getting expensive and I'm just getting started.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:49 PM   #9
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I personally had a 6" from the PO with TC drop. FIRST thing I did was LOWER it to 3.5" and dump the TC drop. Why would you lift your Jeep only to DROP the TC?? Keep your COG as low as possible! And with a Rubicon and 35's...regearing to 4:88 brings it back to stock ratio. Based on the question alone you probably should look at some of the build threads before you start buying stuff so you don't spend your money twice...

You'll need
Drive shafts
Adjustable control arms
brake lines
steering upgrades
Brake pad upgrade at min, rotor and calipers at best.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:00 PM   #10
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I personally had a 6" from the PO with TC drop. FIRST thing I did was LOWER it to 3.5" and dump the TC drop. Why would you lift your Jeep only to DROP the TC?? Keep your COG as low as possible! And with a Rubicon and 35's...regearing to 4:88 brings it back to stock ratio. Based on the question alone you probably should look at some of the build threads before you start buying stuff so you don't spend your money twice...

You'll need
Drive shafts
Adjustable control arms
brake lines
steering upgrades
Brake pad upgrade at min, rotor and calipers at best.


So a Transfer Case drop ISN'T necessary for a 3.5" lift? what all comes included for a 3.5" lift compared to a 4" or are they basically the same thing? I'm so confused, do any of you guys have links to a webpage that will explain all of this lift stuff to me? I've heard that unless you hit 4" you don't need to adjust anything, but then I've heard the opposite.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:09 PM   #11
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1st decide what size tire you want to run.. then build your jeep off that. 2nd every lift kit is different there is no standard to go by out there. Thus how much can you spend on the project? In general to do it complete you would need 8 adj control arms, 4 shocks, front and rear adj tracbars, extended brake lines for your avg 4" lift.CV rear drive shaft. when it comes to vibs each jeep is different.. I had one that I needed a t-case drop on with 3" lift another with 4" that didn't... go figure..
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
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So a Transfer Case drop ISN'T necessary for a 3.5" lift? what all comes included for a 3.5" lift compared to a 4" or are they basically the same thing? I'm so confused, do any of you guys have links to a webpage that will explain all of this lift stuff to me? I've heard that unless you hit 4" you don't need to adjust anything, but then I've heard the opposite.
What is the point of lifting your rig then leaving lowering the tcase so it can get hung up on obstacles? Your goal should be to install a tummy tuck and raise the tcase as high as possible.

In order to provide appropriate answers to your questions we need to know your budget (excluding tires/wheels) and intended vehicle usage.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:10 AM   #13
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What he said ^. Wacky information in this thread. 33s don't require steering and brake upgrades, although for the 12.5" wide tire i'd put it on my list somewhere.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:30 AM   #14
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Alright so I'm not looking at doing MOAB any time soon, nor the Rubicon Trail, I live in FL where it's mostly just trails, no rocks, just some big tree stumps and sugar sand. I would like to go up more north in a couple years to like north carolina or tennessee with my jeep friends, so something that would be appropriate for up there
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:33 AM   #15
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What he said ^. Wacky information in this thread. 33s don't require steering and brake upgrades, although for the 12.5" wide tire i'd put it on my list somewhere.
so you mean that upgrades aren't necessary but they would be a good idea? but I wouldn't Have to regear, because if I'm regearing, I'm just going to go up to a 35
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
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What is the point of lifting your rig then leaving lowering the tcase so it can get hung up on obstacles? Your goal should be to install a tummy tuck and raise the tcase as high as possible.

In order to provide appropriate answers to your questions we need to know your budget (excluding tires/wheels) and intended vehicle usage.
I'f you don't drop your Tcase, then how would you keep your drive shaft straight? (sorry if I sound naive, I know nothing about 4 wheeled vehicles)

Also price isn't a problem, if I have to wait a little longer to save up more for the best, then I'll do that, but I kind of do want to stay under $4k. and thats including all of the extra parts I need to buy like the SYE, but NOT including laber, because I just might get a "Lift kit for dummies" book , if they do make them I seriously might just buy one
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:47 AM   #17
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If you have a rubicon, you don't need an SYE so you're already ahead of the game.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:51 AM   #18
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I installed this kit from Currie on my 05 Rubicon Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts (name comes up wrong but it is the correct kit) it is a complete kit and does not use a TC drop. Now you also need new shocks, and I installed new front longer brake lines.

I also installed there new HD steering ://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1219 and a new steering stabilizer

Now I have re-geared to 4:88's, added a 1" BL and running 35's, I also installed tube fenders because I like the look.

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Old 01-19-2014, 10:52 AM   #19
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Honestly I think you need you need to read through the tech threads. Because everyone has an opinion here and they all feel their opinion is the right one. IF you decide to lift your Jeep there's a lot more to making the lift work than just putting the lift on it.
When you flex will trac bar interfere with flex? Will tires rub? Can you stop?
When you do your build think LONG TERM, meaning you may not be considering MOAB now but 5-6 years from now? Especially when you have established wheeling buddies that say "Let's go to MOAB!" Will you be able to comfortably take your Jeep or come to realize your build was too short sighted???

In FL you could probably get by without regearing but what about if you come to CO and wheel at 12,000FT? The lack of oxygen here in CO sucks the power from your vehicle. My point is EDUCATE yourself by reading a lot of threads. You'll get a better understanding and realize which opinions are right and which come from; "I heard" or "they say" or "my buddies friend's friend says". There's great information here take the time to research it and be able to fully understand the "what and whys"...it will save you a lot of money and frustration!
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:16 AM   #20
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^^^I agree. Take your sweet time researching to see what you really want so you do not jump into something and regret it, causing you to buy something else. Save money by buying the right stuff the first time and making small tweaks to your rig instead of large tweaks. Best time for me to research is when I do not have build funds (often).
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:28 AM   #21
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Ok your 'Garage' says you have a '98 TJ, not a Rubicon. Exactly what model TJ are we taking about here?

There's a lot of differences in what is needed to run 33" vs. 35" tires, and the same goes for various heights of suspension lift. It gets more expensive once you get to 4" of suspension lift since that much lift creates a very steep rear driveshaft angle that has to be taken care of to eliminate serious vibrations caused by that steep of an angle.

Any lift height starting at about 2" will start causing vibrations due to the rear driveshaft's steeper angle. At 2-3", you can usually get rid of those vibrations by installing a transfer case skidplate lowering kit. At about 3", that is often not enough & you may also need to install something like a 1" motor mount lift.

But there are too many differences in everything depending on what lift height you are serious about. So we first need to know if you're going to be doing this to your '98 TJ, or to a Rubicon. There's a difference in what is needed between those two models.

Also, what size tires is your goal? That makes a huge difference on if your current axle ratio will be adequate for that size tire. What transmission do you have, automatic or 5-speed manual? And even if you have a Rubicon with its 4.11 axle ratio, it isn't geared optimally for 33" tires, and it's not even close to being geared well enough to run 35" tires.

My suggestion is to look at your budget to see what is realistic. What is your real goal that will make you happy... enough lift to run 33" tires? 35" tires?

There are too many different routes you can take & we can't really offer solid advice until we no longer have to shoot in the dark.
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:34 AM   #22
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I'll definitely do my research.

Jerry, I dont have a rubi yet, but I'm going to be getting on within the next three months ( I'm just waiting for someone to trade in the perfect rubi ) So I don't know too much about the rubi's.

Sinister, you made a very good point, and kind of convinced me to go middle of the road and do a 4" SL with 35's and just regear ( might as well spend all my money at once!)
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:45 AM   #23
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Ok, I think I got it,

If I get a 4" lift,

I wont need an SYE for a rubicon because it has a fixed yoke
I don't want to drop my Tcase because that will just be counterproductive, instead I should get a CV driveshaft (is that just for the rear or for the front and the rear?)

I will need to get longer brakelines
Adjustable control arms

If I get 35" tires,
I would need to regear (about 5.13?)
I should invest in rotors, calipers, and better brake pads
and upgrade my steering (how exactly is that done? just with a more heavy duty steering stabilizer?)
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:49 AM   #24
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What ratio to regear to for 35" tires depends on the Rubicon's transmission... 5.13 would be good for the automatic, 4.88 would be good for a 5-speed, you could even go 4.56 if it comes with the 6-speed. Personally, I would consider a 2003 or 2004 Rubicon as the ideal model year range. 2005 and 2006 have a problem with their OPDA (oil pump drive assemblies) which is not a minor issue to have to contend with. Between manual and automatic, having had TJs with both 5-speeds and automatics, I personally would definitely go automatic.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:04 PM   #25
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Ok, I think I got it,

If I get a 4" lift,

I wont need an SYE for a rubicon because it has a fixed yoke
I don't want to drop my Tcase because that will just be counterproductive, instead I should get a CV driveshaft (is that just for the rear or for the front and the rear?)

I will need to get longer brakelines
Adjustable control arms

If I get 35" tires,
I would need to regear (about 5.13?)
I should invest in rotors, calipers, and better brake pads
and upgrade my steering (how exactly is that done? just with a more heavy duty steering stabilizer?)
You just need a new driveshaft in the rear, your front is already a CV shaft from the factory.

Black Magic brake pads and centric premium rotors are a great combination.

You will want a new tie rod and likely drag link. In my opinion the best on the market is the Currie steering system and its what I run. I bent two stock tie rods on 33's and haven't had a problem now with the Currie steering. A cheaper alternative is buying a tie rod for a ZJ from your local auto parts store. They are much stronger than the stock tj tie rod and are only $60 or so.

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