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Old 12-14-2013, 02:16 PM   #1
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blower issue

searched like a mad man,

so heater only worked on speeds 1-3, never 4

now dead no speeds at all, so is it just switches?

napa for the parts?

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Old 12-14-2013, 02:55 PM   #2
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Check fuse first. I had an issue where only worked on first setting then nada at 2 through 4. Turned out to be fuss. Located behind glove box

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Old 12-14-2013, 09:06 PM   #3
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fuses are good so switch?
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:14 PM   #4
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try blower resistor in box under dash and yes napa for parts
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:20 PM   #5
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Sound like a resistor. This question comes up several times a week. It's about $30-40 bucks to buy a new resistor. Pops in under the pass side dash. Remove three bolts and the cover pops off. Then swap in new resistor. 10 min job tops
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Old 12-15-2013, 02:29 AM   #6
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Two things. Both have happened to me. First, yes check the resistor. Second. Check the actual fan speed switch and make sure it didn't burn up. Normally if it did, it would be around the pigtail connector in the back of it. Both have happened to me.
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Old 12-15-2013, 02:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbsolutCaptain View Post
Two things. Both have happened to me. First, yes check the resistor. Second. Check the actual fan speed switch and make sure it didn't burn up. Normally if it did, it would be around the pigtail connector in the back of it. Both have happened to me.
This happened to me it's not a switch or resistor, it's the fan speed switch. And they only sell the 3 as one unit. It's BS but ohh well
Hope this helps
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ac-and-heat...FQuUfgodpwQAJQ
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Old 12-15-2013, 02:53 AM   #8
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Sorry I meant it's not a fuse or resistor.
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:56 AM   #9
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The resistor is not used on highest fan speed so if high does not work not resistor

Switch or wiring but some have found failing motor draws excessive current and smokes switch or wires so you may need to replace any wires that have heat damaged insulation and replace blower motor to prevent recurrences

First inspect wires and test switch with a meter
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Old 12-15-2013, 11:36 AM   #10
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You can get the fan speed switch independently. But you gotta go to the dealer o_O
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:35 PM   #11
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Stupid question here - no heat in my 2001 Wrangler at any speed. Fuses fine. Replaced blower motor switch on dash, still nothing.

Bought new blower motor from Autozone (napa and pepboys were out of stock) and it looks a lot cheaper made than my original. I'm having trouble plugging the thing in. When I removed the original I pretty much just wiggled out the connection but now I fear I was supposed to hold a latch down or some other nuance and broke the connector because I can't even plug the original back in. It looks like a basic "plug and play" to me. Is there a specific way it has to be connected? Also, someone asked if I tested the blower motor by running leads to it - what the heck does that mean? Someone also said it could be the resistor under the passenger dash but I thought I read on this forum if the blower wasn't working on any speeds it couldn't be the resistor, something about a bypass on the highest setting? Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:42 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mihaley View Post
Stupid question here - no heat in my 2001 Wrangler at any speed. Fuses fine. Replaced blower motor switch on dash, still nothing.

Bought new blower motor from Autozone (napa and pepboys were out of stock) and it looks a lot cheaper made than my original. I'm having trouble plugging the thing in. When I removed the original I pretty much just wiggled out the connection but now I fear I was supposed to hold a latch down or some other nuance and broke the connector because I can't even plug the original back in. It looks like a basic "plug and play" to me. Is there a specific way it has to be connected? Also, someone asked if I tested the blower motor by running leads to it - what the heck does that mean? Someone also said it could be the resistor under the passenger dash but I thought I read on this forum if the blower wasn't working on any speeds it couldn't be the resistor, something about a bypass on the highest setting? Any help would be appreciated.
Pull the whole control panel out and look at the connector beside the mode switch on the right side. See if it has melted and also look at the fan control switch for melting.
As the blower motor bearing wear it causes too many amps to be drawn thru the wires that are too small from the factory.

The fix is to clean the connector with sand paper of the melted plastic. Then replace the fan switch, you can get one at most auto parts stores.

Now install 40 amp relays on the two highest speed wires going to the fan switch. You will have to run a wire to the battery and find a good ground for the other wire.

This will let the high amps go thru the relay instead of the switch. The fan switch will only be activating the relays.
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:11 AM   #13
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My blower stopped working last year. My climate control switch, the one that selects window, hands, feet, etc was bad. It actually melted a little. I got a new one, snipped the wires since the old ends were all messed up, and hot wired it together. Take it out and look at it.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:14 AM   #14
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I have a 2001 tj and am having a similar problem. My heat and ac both work fine at any speed except only blow out the driver side vents. Should I try any of the methods above or is this a completely different issue??
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:05 AM   #15
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I have a 2001 tj and am having a similar problem. My heat and ac both work fine at any speed except only blow out the driver side vents. Should I try any of the methods above or is this a completely different issue??
Check vaccume lines and make sure the actuators under dash on drivers side is working when selecting different settings. If there is a leak the vents will default to defrost vents. If defrost is not working when selected, then more likely it is an actuator or broken arm controlling the door/flap. I had a leak where it was just enough to hold in position, but if you switched the location it would not hold or revert back to defrost. Turned out to be the boot on the vaccume line and tank under the battery on passenger side tucked into the fender. Took a bit to actually locate when the line fell off. There is a "T" where the vaccume line comes off the engine and goes into the firewall where the heater core lines go in and the other lines goes to the tank under-ish the battery. Follow the lines and look for nicks, breaks or brittle, cracked rubber boots and elbows.


As for the others. I have found the Switch goes before the resistor more times than not. I have replaced the fan speed switch 2 times in last 6 months. Both melted a bit. But the resistor is fine. No reason other than buying cheep switches that the melted.

The temp selector on dash controls the blend door. That door is located on passengers side close to center under dash. Allowing hot air from the heater core to enter the vent system or not. My 01 is controlled by an electric motor not vaccume. If the temp does not change, the motor could be bad or the switch on dash or door/flap broke. Look for cheep fix first.

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