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Old 12-21-2009, 07:07 AM   #1
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body & motor mount lift

picked up a rough country 1.25" body lift
when it was on sale for $50, and bought
the jks 1" motor mount lift. had a buddy
help with the install. body lift was a piece
of chocolate cake, no issues whatsoever.
the mml was a bit more difficult, but we got
it done in a few hours total. overall, the
jeep is quite a bit higher, and now you can
REALLY see it needs a tummy tuck, which
is next on the list along with an upgraded
ds. anywho, here's a couple of side
shots.

thanks for the help eric and shawn !!!




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Old 12-21-2009, 10:03 AM   #2
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Looks good. Did you just cut your fender flares?

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Old 12-21-2009, 10:12 AM   #3
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Looks pretty sweet. Just for perspective, how much suspension lift do you have on there? Im thinkin about doin the BL/MML in early 2010.
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2000 Wrangler Sport, 4.0L auto
OME 2.5" Suspension Lift
1.25" JKS BL and 1" MML
33x12.5 GoodYear Wrangler Duratracs
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:52 AM   #4
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looking good man... now bring it down here for some wheeling
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csamn2007 View Post
Looks good. Did you just cut your fender flares?
yep, cut the flares with a cut off wheel and finished up the edges with
some black door trim. looks really good in person

Quote:
Originally Posted by catITguy View Post
Looks pretty sweet. Just for perspective, how much suspension lift do you have on there? Im thinkin about doin the BL/MML in early 2010.
4" rough country sa lift with the 1.25 bl.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Contra View Post
looking good man... now bring it down here for some wheeling
we are having another run @ hidden falls jan 2, you guys wanna join up ???
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:47 PM   #6
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hey check out 4x4xplore.com with a mml you will get by with less of a tc drop.. the site shows you how you can homemake one.. i use only about 1/8'' drop on my tc with around 3'' of lift
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:12 PM   #7
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im not running a tc drop though...
maybe im missing something about
your comment.. ?
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:23 PM   #8
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im not running a tc drop though...
maybe im missing something about
your comment.. ?
when you said you needed a tummy tuck i figured most people say that bc their skidplate is stickin down a hell of a lot.. i couldnt get a clear sight in your pics you posted and for a min it looked like your skid was stickin lower..

if u dont have a tc drop with your lift than nevermind =D
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:02 AM   #9
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haha okay no problem. im still gonna do the
tummy tuck cuz that shovel for a tcase skid
really sux. i was reading around and it looks
like you have to install some adjustable upper
rear ca's when you do the tummy tuck ? is
this even after you do the sye and upgraded
ds ?
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:37 PM   #10
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looks nice man! i'm in the process of installing my 1" BL and MML. i got the body lift in, but i'm having some issues with the mml right now, i've only got a little 2.5ton jack to get up to the bell housing with a 4x4 woodblock. tomorrow i'm gonna try to find a larger wooden block. i can't think of another way to get that engine up higher with what i got in the garage. did you have issues with raising your engine with the 4" of lift you've got? i've got 3" and 33's so i'm a little high already.....
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Old 12-24-2009, 11:21 AM   #11
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i used a concrete block on the oil pan,
which worked but your taking a chance
on warping the pan. thats how i did it.
i just went back and checked the oil
pan bolts and 7 were loose, so i re-
tightened them up snug.

we are doing another one this afternoon
and i have some wood blocks we will use
on this one. we used a 2.5 ton jack as
well, but on the oil pan like i said.
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Old 12-24-2009, 12:00 PM   #12
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Please excuse the new guy question - but why do you need a motor mount lift & what is a tummy tuck?
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Old 12-24-2009, 12:19 PM   #13
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take a look at your tcase skid and how
far it hangs down. a tummy tuck is
when you replace the stock skid with
a skid plate that runs smooth across
the frame rails. usually nets you 3-4
inches additional clearance at the belly.
you need a motor mount lift and a
body lift to allow space betweeen the
underside of the tub and the top of
the tranny so you can do a tummy tuck.
if you didnt do those things, then you
couldnt run a flat belly skid because
the tcase / tranny would be too low.

compare this tummy tuck pic after you
take a look under your jeep.

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Old 12-24-2009, 01:11 PM   #14
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just got in from the garage, i got used a nice big 6x6 block and the 2.5ton floor jack and raised the engine from the bell housing. got everything in! i went and started it up, and after she idles for about 5-10 seconds, all of the gauges on my cluster fail and my check engine comes on?????
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Old 12-24-2009, 02:14 PM   #15
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uh, hmm.. well, when we did mine i did notice that
when we got the oem mm's off the engine slid back
and almost pinched some wiring there right at the
rear of the valve cover and the firewall. did your
engine slide back that way ? you can do the key
trick and see what codes its throwing then look
those up to get a start on what the issue is.

does it run bad, or just the cluster lighting up .. ?
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Old 12-24-2009, 08:19 PM   #16
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ya i got error codes 61 and 64, its not looking too cool right now, i think i blew the voltage regulator which is located within the pcm, and the only way to replace it is to replace the entire pcm....
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Old 12-28-2009, 03:24 PM   #17
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did you get this figured out buddy ?
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:13 PM   #18
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well sort of...... i had a regulator put into the alternator and a new alternator cap put on to fit the regulator. i installed it today and started her up. voltmeter read 12.76V at idle. not enough juice, the battery isn't being charged. i get a code 47 now

-47 Battery voltage sense input below target charging during engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery voltage during active test of generator output circuit.

I'm not a wiring guru, so tomorrow i'm gonna get over to the shop and see if they can inspect how i have everything set up and determine if its correct. :/
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:20 AM   #19
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got it fixed! i was missing another wire off of the alternator. plugged it in then wired it to the + battery post, charged the battery and good to go. gonna drive it around town today before i make the long trip home make sure everything is working.
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:58 PM   #20
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awesome, great news man !
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:22 AM   #21
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ok so i am getting ready to install my first body lift and i have heard it is really easy, but i just wanted to know if there are any useful tips/hints i should know about.
It is the P.A. 2" body lift for my 04 sport automatic, i know i am gonna have to do the radiator mounts, but looking at the manual, i am gonna need to work on the fuel lines and the epa canister.
I never heard of having to do this based on other people's installations, is this gonna be more difficult than i thought??
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:56 AM   #22
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we didnt have to mess with anything due to it being 1.25".
the directions show that you have to modify the fuel lines ?
what are you supposed to do with them.. ?

besides those things the body lift is extremely easy. be sure
to loosen the body bolts of the side you are NOT doing so
the body can be jacked up on the side you ARE doing, which
will allow the most room between the mounting points when
inserting the pucks. dont forget loctite on the new grade 8
bolts. then just swap sides and your done.

are you doing the motor mount lift with it ? with you doing a
2" lift i would say spend the dough and get the mml as well.
2" is ALOT of body lift for a tj / lj.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:32 AM   #23
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lets say i cut the lift down to a 1.25"...
can i use the same bolts that came with the 2" kit or do i have to get all new bolts.
if not, can i use the pieces of the pucks i cut and use them as "washers" per say to accomodate for the gap???
i would prefer to cut it down but i dont want to buy all new hardware.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:36 AM   #24
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you could cut them down and buy new bolts, its not that expensive, grade 8 hardware for my 11 bolts and washers came to < $15. you wont find the correct sizes that you need at HD or lowes, i went to an industrial distributor/retailer... this might help ya on the install though.

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Old 12-30-2009, 10:58 AM   #25
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i had the assumption that g8 blots were much more expensive.
yeah that is a very helpful video, i actually watched this before getting my 2" kit thinking this was all i was gonna have to do, but i took a look at my owners manuel and was suprised at all the mod's it has me doing.
so you dont think i can just put the cut peices below the body mount and use them as extra washers for the longer bolts. i fell like this is possible since there is no stress on the bolt under the frame
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:16 AM   #26
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also, the only reason i am doing this is for looks, i already have a 2" BB so do you think a 1.25" will make a visible difference, cause if not i might not even bother with it.
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:26 AM   #27
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I plan on doing a bl as well. Thanks for the vid post.
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:45 AM   #28
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Thanks for the link to the video. Short of going nuts I think I'd be happy with a 2" lift and 1-1.25" body. At that point do you NEED the MML or is it an option? Does it complicate any of the driveline angles or any similar issues? Any serious trade-offs when doing an MML? ('99 Wrangler Sport manual).

Come to think of it, does the body lift simply make the stickshift that much lower and would the MML return it to near stock location? I'd figure it that way but I've been wrong before...
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APPSTATEwrangler View Post
ok so i am getting ready to install my first body lift and i have heard it is really easy, but i just wanted to know if there are any useful tips/hints i should know about.
It is the P.A. 2" body lift for my 04 sport automatic, i know i am gonna have to do the radiator mounts, but looking at the manual, i am gonna need to work on the fuel lines and the epa canister.
I never heard of having to do this based on other people's installations, is this gonna be more difficult than i thought??
im looking to buy the PA 2" bl....

how extensive is the fuel line mod? gas lines?? could you explain more, i want 2" not 1" :/

im sitting on 33's ATM with a 2" bb so i need the 2" BL. yeah.... thanks! ;D
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Old 12-30-2009, 04:09 PM   #30
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well i got the performance accessories kit and everything is included in the kit. The fuel line right at the gas cap need to be lengthened. there is a transfercase relocation bracket that needs to be installed. and of course, the radiator needs to be moved a bit.
if you have a manuel than there need to be some other mods as well.

it does not look too hard, but the instructions included are very hard to understand, especially if you are like me and dont know what a transfer case is, not to mention what it looks like.
it just seems too involved for me to do it.
i might just cut it down to 1.25" and not worry about all that stuff

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