I attempted to lift my Jeep today with a jks 1.25 body lift.
I'm currently driving on one missing front mount bolt (was snapped off in the hole before i even started), one loose middle drivers side mount bolt (won't tighten all the way but spacer installed), and two rear stock mounts. The rear mount above the bumper just spins, I'm assuming the nut broke off and it's just spinning in place. Since I can't remove the bumper one, I can't get my hand in the space to but in the mount by the rear shock on the passenger side.
Everything else was swapped out by the jks pucks. I did loose one puck on the drive home cause I had no way to bolt it down. I thought the weight of the body would keep it in place. I thought wrong.
So I'm driving around with a missing front bolt, loose bolts, and got a slight lean to the Jeep being that not all the spacers are 1.25 inches. Rear
2 passenger side mounts are stock still.
What an 8 hour nightmare.
Checking out mechanics tomorrow to get it possibly taken care of.
Maybe I'll see if Monro will take a look tomorrow, being Sunday I have no other choice.
Any suggestions? I really don't wanna cut the tub for the rear issue, and I guess I could buy a tap and die set and take care of the front mount.
Also noticed the body is slightly missaligned, made it a real pain today, literally.
This is all hindsight by now, but did you loosen all the bolts to make sure you could finish the job before you committed to the body lift? Mine had a few sticky bolts that I made sure would come free before getting too far into the project.
Yup first thing I did after removing fan shroud.
The rear bolt was spinning pretty loose. My mistake was assuming it was actually unscrewing. Now I'm the one that's screwed.
Gonna drive it to work (20 miles there and back) Monday then Tuesday call off work and cut the tub outside the Jeep above the bumper to access the rear mount bolt. Cut that ******* nut off and finish up the body lift. Another day should do it. I'm not quitting on this.
Gotta love the rust here in the north east . I used a 4" grinder and made a slot on the inside of the box where the two rear bolts are and was able to stop the nut from spinning with a wrench. I was also able to reattach the same nut through the same slot . I use lots of synthetic brake lubricant on the bolts when reinstalling them as it stays slippery when anti seize has dried up . The next two that are by the rear shocks. I did some measuring and with a cutting blade on the grinder made an access hole in the bed inside where I could get to the nuts .You can see a change in the floor pattern where the bolts are located to confirm your measurements . I just siliconed the same piece back in . Those are inside a channel so you are not hurting anything structurally. Can't help ya there as I have not encountered an issue with that one ...yet.
Patience
Yes sir, this all season weather in one week doesn't help.
Thanks for the tips. The more I think about it, I'm kinda lucky to only have two bolts with issues. My mounts near the shocks came out pretty easy but completely rusted through.
I'm gonna get the dremel saw and cut a little window in the rear wheel well area and get that nut off and replaced.
Drilling out the front mount bolt will be tricky. Gonna have to get my hands on a longer bit or something. Really don't wanna take off the grill. Maybe I'll save that one for the mechanic.
Also having a hell of a time getting the radiator support things in. Might trim them, gotta read up on it more.
Thanks.
the two by the shocks are located just slightly ahead of where your rear seat belt bolts to the wheel well but naturally in the floor. As I said their is a change in the floor pattern where the end of the bolt will be located .
Those two came right out surprisingly. The one I have to drill open is the one by the bumper, all the way rear.
Hitting it tomorrow, maybe I'll snap a picture for future reference, whoever needs it in the future. I had to dig around to find an idea.
with a 4" grinder I just opened the front side of the little box that the nut is in . Remove the nut and install new through the same hole and make a patch that you can remove if you need to get in again . mine is made out of an adhesive type of roofing stuff. Comes on a roll at **** depot it is metallic on one side and sticky type of rubber on the other .
You are right, but I had to go to work. It's currently bolted down on 9 of the 11 locations. It's not THAT bad as i made it out to be. Shouldn't have drove it but gotta pay the bills. I've seen rice burners running on all donut tires around here. Trust me they could care less about peoples safety. At least I took it easy and burned a vacation day today to fix it in 30-40 degree weather.
Adda boy , Don't offer any help just criticize . Easy to judge someone until you walk in their shoes. I am not saying he should be driving it but just maybe he don't have much of a choice , I don't know and neither do you .
For any future readers:
Here's what went down. Cut it up with two different size dremels. Stuck vise grips in there to grab the square nut to loosen the bolt and actually snapped the bolt. Kinda worked better for me. Bottom of bolt fell out, square nut and broken half of bolt I just pulled out with a magnet.
New bolt and puck installed, reach in your new cut entry with a wrench and tighten away.
Glad it worked out for you. I dealt with the same seized bolts in those locations. I put a 1.5" hole saw in the cordless and drilled through the front of that box. Fished out the broken nut/bolt, and replaced it with new. Also coated everything with anti-seize before reassembly.
Is the spot to cut out to access the top of the rear body mount above the rear axle a small square next to the rear seat mount? Doing a body lift and encountered the same problem, just want to make sure I'm cutting the right spot.
The spot shown here is if you go outside the Jeep and into the wheel well. Remove the tire for more access and look right above the mount at the actual body of the Jeep. I just eyeballed where I thought the bolt was and started cutting. Don't cut too low, and watch the wires above your spot of choice too.
Or use a hole saw like said above, that will be a muuuuch cleaner cut.
Good to know in case I go this route for a little extra lift. My rubber body mounts are probably shot anyway considering they are about 20 yrs old now... Luckily down here in the South we don't have to deal with the rust you guys have up there!
Yea those are the very rear body mounts. I'm having trouble with the one above the rear axle housing right next to the gas tank. the welded nut broke lose on the frame cross member. the only way I can see to access it is thru the floor in the rear of the jeep, I thought you had trouble with one of those too, my bad.
Oh I see, yea only access point is cutting the tub from the inside as far as I read.
Sucks but I seen some great "repairs" after they cut into the tub.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ask a question
Ask a question
Jeep Wrangler Forum
9M posts
468K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Jeep Wrangler owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about reviews, performance, trail riding, gear, suspension, tires, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, for all JL, JT, JK, TJ, YJ, and CJ models!