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Old 08-25-2010, 02:32 PM   #31
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Have fun finding a 1 1/2" socket, I had to cross the size over into Metric when I had my S-10 Blazer, the guys at the parts store told me they weer all metric, same on the jeep if I want to change things I have to cross reference the size.

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Old 08-25-2010, 02:38 PM   #32
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Any well equipped tool department or tool store will have 1 1/2" sockets. I don't bother asking the guys in the parts stores for anything other than where something is located in the store. For them to claim they were all metric now doesn't surprise me in the least.

And an auto parts store would be the last place I would buy tools from unless it was 9pm on a Sunday evening and I was desperate.

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Old 08-25-2010, 02:50 PM   #33
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I got a double ended philips screwdriver at a auto parts store once, (9am on a Sunday). The thing lasted about three years, Got the exact same thing from Lowes 10 years ago, still using and abusing it.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:17 PM   #34
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I got a double ended philips screwdriver at a auto parts store once, (9am on a Sunday). The thing lasted about three years, Got the exact same thing from Lowes 10 years ago, still using and abusing it.
I've got quite a few tools from an auto parts store and haven't had any issues. Dunno why anyone would refuse to buy tools from a parts store just because they are a parts store. Maybe they don't employ master mechanics, but the dealership does and I won't still won't take any of my vehicles to them. I know what quality is, and I can find them on my own without the help of a store worker, whether that store is an auto parts store or not.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:20 AM   #35
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Dually noted - will not go to an autoparts store unless it's 9pm on a Sunday night... and it's a screwdriver I need.

Now back to the question at hand, is it in fact an 1 1/2" socket that I need for this nut?
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:53 AM   #36
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Found this - tho ATVs are not Jeeps. Don't know the rules.
http://www.nhstateparks.org/uploads/...BikeTrails.pdf

This specifically mentions Jeeps but as 'touring'.
Heritage Farm Adventures

New Hampshire 4x4 club. Probably worth it to contact them and ask questions.
Please post your findings here tho.
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:38 AM   #37
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I was going to do this last weekend to my 2004 TJ, however, I couldn't get the pinion shaft nut off with a breaker bar and a socket. I was planning to rent an electric impact driver for $25 locally to do the job this weekend. I just need to figure out if it will allow me to set the torque when I replace the nut. I'm pretty certain that it was a 1 1/8 socket that fit onto my pinion shaft nut though. I found the size on a post on a different forum.

With the breaker bar, I found that the shaft rotated slightly with the nut as I tried to apply pressure to it, maybe if I had placed it in 4 hi or low, this would have been prevented? Even though I wasn't able to finish the job, it only took me about 13 minutes to figure out that I had a problem. In 5 more, I had it back together and ready to drive. Let us know how it goes! Good luck!
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:18 AM   #38
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damn... haha. I see I posted on the wrong thread. LOL.

So I have a vote for 1 1/8" - I have the 99 FSM here in a pdf file, but damn if I can't find this information.
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:22 AM   #39
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Now back to the question at hand, is it in fact an 1 1/2" socket that I need for this nut?
No, it should be a 1 1/8". Get a small tube of red Locktite while you're at the store and put a few drops on the threads for the pinion nut before you tighten it down. That's one nut in particular you don't want loosening up.
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:23 AM   #40
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Most excellent. Thanks Jerry!
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:44 PM   #41
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No, it should be a 1 1/8". Get a small tube of red Locktite while you're at the store and put a few drops on the threads for the pinion nut before you tighten it down. That's one nut in particular you don't want loosening up.
Yep.
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:49 PM   #42
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I've got quite a few tools from an auto parts store and haven't had any issues. Dunno why anyone would refuse to buy tools from a parts store just because they are a parts store. Maybe they don't employ master mechanics, but the dealership does and I won't still won't take any of my vehicles to them. I know what quality is, and I can find them on my own without the help of a store worker, whether that store is an auto parts store or not.
the only issue I ever had with tools is the metric set that 711 used to sell only went up to 1/2" or 13 mm. Ever need a 9/16 and only have a 1/2? But basically a tool's quality is NOT measured by where its bought, but HOW its made, and how its used, I can use a dollar store flat blade for 20 years as long as I use it to screw a screw, the first time I use it as a pry bar, chisel, cats paw, its ruined, same with a Craftsman.
But 99% of my tools say either Craftsman, Mac, Koblat or Husky on them, the other 1% I got from my grandfather so they were made back when a man took pride in his work.
And the only real issue I have with tools made in China is you can't eat em, they might contain lead
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:20 PM   #43
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And the only real issue I have with tools made in China is you can't eat em, they might contain lead
"might" Ken, "might". I take it you're not a gamblin' man?

Heck, we have enough toxins in our teeth fillings, I say go throw caution into the wind and take a bite out of that Chinese wrench.

This thread is excellent info guys - much appreciated! Gonna pick up some tools this weekend. Just now hit the pinion nut with some WD40 - hopefully it will give me a bit more of a chance with a breaker bar. I'll keep you guys updated.
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:31 PM   #44
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Just now hit the pinion nut with some WD40 - hopefully it will give me a bit more of a chance with a breaker bar.
WD-40 is about as good of a penetrant as Mazola oil is as a motor oil.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:01 PM   #45
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Quote:
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WD-40 is about as good of a penetrant as Mazola oil is as a motor oil.
That good huh?
What do you recommend?
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:03 AM   #46
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Through a search I see you recommend - Break-Free, PB-Blaster, or Liquid Wrench.

Thanks man!
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Old 08-27-2010, 02:22 PM   #47
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"might" Ken, "might". I take it you're not a gamblin' man?

Heck, we have enough toxins in our teeth fillings, I say go throw caution into the wind and take a bite out of that Chinese wrench.

This thread is excellent info guys - much appreciated! Gonna pick up some tools this weekend. Just now hit the pinion nut with some WD40 - hopefully it will give me a bit more of a chance with a breaker bar. I'll keep you guys updated.

Yea I gamble every now and then, but a Chinese wrench? I gotta have fries with that Oh and can we supersize the meal too?

Keep up dates comin man, let us know how it goes, and I honestly hope everything works out great
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:11 PM   #48
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Through a search I see you recommend - Break-Free, PB-Blaster, or Liquid Wrench.

Thanks man!
Nice research. By the time you had asked that I was into my second glass of single-malt scotch (Bowmore) while celebrating my birthday with friends.
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:58 PM   #49
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UPDATE

...not good...

The day started off so well - hit Harbor Freight and stocked up on a bunch of tools. It was like a candy store.

I figured I'd go after the front D30 diff being it looks to be leaking the most. Maybe even out of the gasket?


I soaked the uplate bolts in this penetrant I picked up from Napa as it was recommended by the guys there.


This is what happened... My heart nearly stopped when the first one broke but after the 2nd one broke as well, with it broke my desire to continue - as I was literally breaking our Jeep.



I then went and pulled the plugs on both diffs to check the oil level. Something I should have done at the beginning! IDIOT! The front D30 is at capacity, the rear D44 needed around a 1/3 of a quart. That's all, dagnabbit.

So here I am stuck and thankful that a) we have 3 cars and b) our mechanic is right around the corner. I went to him saddened with my broken bolts in my hand. He said I probably should have used heat. So my options... and please chime in with suggestions, thoughts, etc...

- Mechanic wants the Jeep Monday to try and weld a rod to the back of each bolt and unscrew them out by heating the surrounding area - what I probably should have done?
- If mechanic can't get them out then I need to purchase a new shaft knuckle (what is the official name?) and what might this cost? Where I can I order it? Only dealership?

If mechanic can get the screws out he can just do the seals as the Jeep is already on the lift and I'm wondering if I even have a chance at the shaft bolt if those little 5/16 F-ers were such a PITA.

And this was all to save a few $$$ and learn by doing.

At least I managed to get the new spark plugs in the Mini...
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:56 PM   #50
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That really is unfortunate, but I'm still curious if you could get the rest of the job done by yourself. Did you plan on trying to use a breaker bar on the pinion axle shaft nut?

Since you have 3 vehicles, I'd consider applying heat and penetrant to the other two bolts. Hit them from the back. Or pay the mechanic... But you'll always wonder if you could have done the job then... Darn little bolts.

Someone else broke a bolt on there transfer case today. Watch their progress on their forum entry...
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:23 AM   #51
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Darn man that sux, but hey look at it this way, at least you know the next ones will come off when the "U: joint has to be replaced.

Man I wish you lived around here, I'd say bring it to me and I'd drill those out for you and retread the yoke tomorrow at work
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:55 PM   #52
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Thanks for the kind words - this does suck. LOL

QUESTION: What is the procedure for heating these bolts up to get them out?
Can some kind of handheld can unit be bought for cheap and used?
Won't the pentrant and any gear oil burst into flames?
My fear is being in a tight area with an open flame trying to heat metal. I would like to keep my face as it is.


It scares me being I don't have that much clearance, the jeep is on the ground. I need to see if the 2-ton Jack stands I have for the Mini are tall enough to lift the Jeep a few inches.

At this point my plan is to give the Jeep to the mechanic and see if he can back the broken bolts out. If he can, I want to ask if he can loosen the front and rear u-plates and the drive shaft bolt - enough so I can take the Jeep home and finish the job myself. Sound nuts?
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:57 PM   #53
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Regarding Torque Wrenches - picked up a 1/2 drive 18" yesterday at Harbor Freight but am disappointed with it's click mechanism, the click to let you know you've reached the proper foot lbs is quite lite - though it would be a heavy more noticeable click. Might take it back and exchange for another one today.
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:44 PM   #54
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Personally I'd pull the yoke BEFORE heating it to get the bolts out, yea gear oil WILL burn, but I don't know about the bursting into flames part, but I don;t like using a torch under a vehicle simple because of the proximity to other flammable gases (oil, grease, the gas tank) I get enough burns at work, I don't need to get one under a Jeep LOL.
Any penetrating oil will also burn, but as long as the can isn't right there your pretty much ok.

No taking it to a mechanic doesn't sound nuts, it sounds like you are not a mechanic and don't want to screw anything up that's all To me that's perfectly understandable too.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:33 AM   #55
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It sounds like you've got a plan. Although, you may just want to have the mechanic do the pinion seal for you. I can't imagine that he'd be to excited about loosening a few bolts for you. I wouldn't want to bring it back to him to finish the job if you needed to for some other reason.

Although, it I'd service the front and rear diff myself otherwise. I would not have him loosen those bolts for you. Simply because the fluid might just drain out all over the place. You can do each of those jobs without doing the pinion seals... You could have done those over the weekend while you were under the jeep. I didn't realize that you were waiting to start those parts of the job.

I think that you'll be able to get those parts of the job without any problem though. Good effort though!
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:42 PM   #56
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UPDATE -

Wolfen - I'm definitely not a mechanic but crave the hands-on work I don't get by pushing pixels all day.

Had the mechanic just do the seals. Easier, less hassle, and we want to use the Jeep this coming weekend. I have no doubt I could have done the job myself if the those bolts would have cooperated. Important thing is I learned a ton from you guys here (many thanks), have a good copy of the FSM now, and I was under the jeep and could see everything I needed to do.

I think the front D30 diff gasket is leaking as mentioned before. Cleaned the diff so I can better see to what extent it leaks. Will do this job myself hopefully when the time comes. The bolts to the diff cap don't look to be exposed to the elements from behind - as with those drive shaft 5/16 bastards - so there "shouldn't" () be as much oxidation and bolt breaking after a good soaking of penetrant. I think I'm going to learn to love Never Seez.

Regarding diff gaskets... it looks like the PO used a liquid gasket or RTV or something on the rear D44 - as it oozed out a litte where it dried. Is this a better/worse method than the gaskets themselves I can pickup for $5 at Napa? Or am I seeing the RTV which the gasket was installed with...
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:56 PM   #57
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The use of RTV as a diff cover sealant is common, especially among experienced mechanics who don't want to have to stock a lot of different types of gaskets to match all possible axles. I have never used anything but RTV to seal my axles after doing a gear lube change or other work that requires I drain the axle. My personal RTV for axle use is Permatex Ultra-Black. I've never had a leak after using RTV either. RTV takes a bit more time but it is pretty bulletproof stuff when applied properly.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:58 PM   #58
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Every reference that I've seen highly recommends using RTV for the differential seals (as opposed to a pre-manufactured gasket). Each of the differentials only took me about an hour to do. Initially, I used the write-up that was linked to the pinion-seal write-up that I directed you to previously. Check it out. I found that the job was not nearly as messy as he had described though. Although a good layer of cardboard was really good on the ground.

The thing about the diffs that saved me the most energy was that I jacked up the frame (not the axle) and that lifted the engine and body components up and out of my way (for the most part) when I was trying to access the differential bolts. I found that the break cleaner was really a great way to clean up the inside and the exterior of the differential though. Both the chlorinated and non-chlorinated (enivonmentally friendly) worked well!
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:08 PM   #59
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Every reference that I've seen highly recommends using RTV for the differential seals (as opposed to a pre-manufactured gasket). Each of the differentials only took me about an hour to do. Initially, I used the write-up that was linked to the pinion-seal write-up that I directed you to previously. Check it out. I found that the job was not nearly as messy as he had described though. Although a good layer of cardboard was really good on the ground.

The thing about the diffs that saved me the most energy was that I jacked up the frame (not the axle) and that lifted the engine and body components up and out of my way (for the most part) when I was trying to access the differential bolts. I found that the break cleaner was really a great way to clean up the inside and the exterior of the differential though. Both the chlorinated and non-chlorinated (enivonmentally friendly) worked well!
Good advice, especially the cardboard on the ground part.

Try brake cleaner the next time you clean out the inside of the axle housing, it works even better than break cleaner does.
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:14 PM   #60
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Good advice, especially the cardboard on the ground part.

Try brake cleaner the next time you clean out the inside of the axle housing, it works even better than break cleaner does.
Ah yes, I bet that "brake" cleaner does work a lot better than "break" cleaner, but I had some left over in the shed... I'll try your recommendation next time!

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