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Old 06-13-2009, 03:13 PM   #1
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Brake pad replacement problem

Alright, so I decided to do some spark plugs and brake pads today. Spark plugs went in fine, took a break, and started doing the stupid brake pads.

Took me 30 minutes.. timed.. to get the caliper off. friggen pads were like rusted to the rotor or some crap. LOONG flat tip screw driver, crow bar, hammer, can of compressed air and lots of muscle is your friend....

Anyway, got em off, went and picked up some Wanger ThermoQuiets from advanced, and back to the house we go. Pushed the piston back in (Yes it's flush with the boot/caliper) and go to put the pads on. Negative ghost rider, pattern is full. Made sure I had em on the right side, and off we go again. Nothing. Couldn't even get em on with a hammer. I tried seating the bottom first and angling the top into place, nope. Tried it from the top first just for S&G and nothing. It feels like A. They are too tight, and B. something is wrong. I did this for a living up until a few years ago, I can't believe I got this stupid so fast. Anyway, I am using the original rotors with 50,000mi on them, so I don't think they should be this tight? I have the master cylinder cap off (but again, the piston IS seated flush against the face of the caliper). I should note that if I angle from the bottom or top, I can get the pads probably 80% onto the rotor before I start to push the other end of the caliper into place, than that side backs out. If I just try slapping them on even (just to see what happens) they only go on about 20% of the way before they feel like they are wedged in and won't go any farther.

What the heck am I doing wrong? The Jeep is sitting in my garage and I was supposed to be at a church BBQ 2 hours ago. For the love of pete, someone tell me the stupid mistake I am over looking.

Thanks.

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Old 06-13-2009, 09:23 PM   #2
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Perhaps one of these.
1.your rotors are out of round, thus the pads will not go on..
2. They gave you the wrong pads
3. Insert correct answer here.

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Old 06-13-2009, 09:48 PM   #3
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i have seen guys fight putting the caliper back on when the bolts that hold the caliper on are sticking out into the caliper. i've caught myself fighting it for a second, when the bolts are in the way. bolts or guide pins will stick out toward the rotor and will never let it go on untill you push them back in. pretty remedial i know, just a thought. wrong pads are possible also. it is a far shot that its the rotors, unless they have such a huge rust ridge on the outside, but i doubt you'd be re using them in that case. simply out of round wouldn't do it.
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCS05Rubi View Post
Alright, so I decided to do some spark plugs and brake pads today. Spark plugs went in fine, took a break, and started doing the stupid brake pads.

Took me 30 minutes.. timed.. to get the caliper off. friggen pads were like rusted to the rotor or some crap. LOONG flat tip screw driver, crow bar, hammer, can of compressed air and lots of muscle is your friend....

Anyway, got em off, went and picked up some Wanger ThermoQuiets from advanced, and back to the house we go. Pushed the piston back in (Yes it's flush with the boot/caliper) and go to put the pads on. Negative ghost rider, pattern is full. Made sure I had em on the right side, and off we go again. Nothing. Couldn't even get em on with a hammer. I tried seating the bottom first and angling the top into place, nope. Tried it from the top first just for S&G and nothing. It feels like A. They are too tight, and B. something is wrong. I did this for a living up until a few years ago, I can't believe I got this stupid so fast. Anyway, I am using the original rotors with 50,000mi on them, so I don't think they should be this tight? I have the master cylinder cap off (but again, the piston IS seated flush against the face of the caliper). I should note that if I angle from the bottom or top, I can get the pads probably 80% onto the rotor before I start to push the other end of the caliper into place, than that side backs out. If I just try slapping them on even (just to see what happens) they only go on about 20% of the way before they feel like they are wedged in and won't go any farther.

What the heck am I doing wrong? The Jeep is sitting in my garage and I was supposed to be at a church BBQ 2 hours ago. For the love of pete, someone tell me the stupid mistake I am over looking.

Thanks.
may be the brakepads i had the same problem with autozone pads on a 450sl
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:40 PM   #5
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yeah I say dave is on the right path.More than likely the bolts and slides are not pushed back with that and a slight cock to the rotor will cause a man to curse.I would also make sure the piston is definitely all the way in.Oh yeah also make sure the notch and the open side are both on the same ends.I had one left and one right on the right side one time and fought with it for 15 minutes before figuring it out.Look at the pads you will see one end has a notch and the other just a stop tab if you have the notch up on the inside pad and down on the outside pad that won't work.
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:50 PM   #6
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Here is a good example.Click on this link and click the picture to enlarge and look at how they have the pads paired up in the picture.That is the WRONG WAY.Power Slot Brake Rotors and Hawk Pads Combo for 97-Mid 99 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 97-98 Cherokee XJ, and 97-98 Grand Cherokee ZJ Front - Quadratec
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by slf41002 View Post
Here is a good example.Click on this link and click the picture to enlarge and look at how they have the pads paired up in the picture.That is the WRONG WAY.Power Slot Brake Rotors and Hawk Pads Combo for 97-Mid 99 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 97-98 Cherokee XJ, and 97-98 Grand Cherokee ZJ Front - Quadratec
I wonder if they even know the inner pads are matched with the wrong outer pad.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:05 AM   #8
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I wonder if they even know the inner pads are matched with the wrong outer pad.
Probably just laid them out to snap the shot and didn't really take note of it being that way but it does set a bad example to anyone that buy those brakes and look at the picture first.It would even be worse if they have them paired up the wrong way with rubber bands around them from the box.
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Old 06-14-2009, 02:08 PM   #9
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Thanks for the reply's guys. I got it all figured out yesterday, but no one had replied so I didn't say anything.

Right part from advanced, but cut wrong. I was trying to throw on some Wagner ThermoQuiets. I finally gave up and went back, and the guy said sometimes they just cut em a little funny and they won't fit. He came back with a box of elcheapo friction masters that were noticeably thinner, and shorter. Went on like butter.
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Old 06-14-2009, 07:40 PM   #10
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Oh yeah also make sure the notch and the open side are both on the same ends.I had one left and one right on the right side one time and fought with it for 15 minutes before figuring it out.

I did the same thing a few weeks ago when putting pads on my TJ. Man, did I feel like an idiot when I figured it out.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:19 PM   #11
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Oh yeah also make sure the notch and the open side are both on the same ends.I had one left and one right on the right side one time and fought with it for 15 minutes before figuring it out.

I did the same thing a few weeks ago when putting pads on my TJ. Man, did I feel like an idiot when I figured it out.
Heh. Don't feel too bad. When I was first learning the trade years ago, doing general service stuff for Mr. Tire etc., I had a tech teach me how to do brakes. His way of teaching was do it, and if you can't figure it out get some help, and after I am done he will look at it. Worked for me most of the time. Anyway, I fought with the brakes on that darn car for probably 2 hours (much like yesterday ) before I gave up and asked for some help. I thought he was gonna hit me with a 11/13s wrench after he found out I wasn't pushing the slide pins in while trying to seat the caliper Sad part was, that day is so ingrained in my memory that was the first thing I checked when I was having problems yesterday heh.

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