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Old 04-27-2008, 01:17 AM   #1
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Brakes

Do you guys go through brakes like you change your underwear? (every 3,000 miles)

i swear to god ever tiime I change my oil I need new pads in the rear (drum) and now I need to replace my rotors in the front

my jeep mechanic sais as soon as dirt or mud get in the drum brakes its pretty much like sand paper on the pads

would it be a good idea to convert to disk brakes in the rear?

if so who makes a good EASY bolt on kit? if thats possible haha

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Old 04-27-2008, 01:54 AM   #2
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With larger than stock tires, of course you are gonna put more wear on the brakes, but that depends on your driving habits as well too. The rears shouldn't wear too bad as drums can last quite a while.

D35 disc brake conversion

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Old 04-27-2008, 09:13 AM   #3
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Even with bigger tires the shoes should last a good amount of time because they only do around 25% of the work. If you go threw alot of mud it's a good idea to pull the drum and hose out all the crap. The tj has a duel servo drum setup so it will adjust when applying the brakes in reverse. Are they dragging? Are they adjusting properly.
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:50 AM   #4
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The 2008's like mine, come with Disc brakes on all four, AzTJ....FYI

Speaking of "mud".....I went through a couple of mud holes a week ago or so, and when I was filling more windshield washer solution into the engine yesterday, I saw some residual mud (light amount) on the inner side of the pulley for the "whatever pump."

I'm thinking that "mud" inside the pully would throw the thing off balance, and create a timing problem or a bearing problem over time.......even though it's a light amount of mud there, (thin layer) should I wash/brush it outa there?

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Old 04-27-2008, 11:41 AM   #5
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mud inside of the pullys for the serp belt isn't going to cause any real probs. It will not effect timing. It's always good to powerwash all the mud off the engien after going threw mud.
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Old 04-27-2008, 04:32 PM   #6
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I didn't sink the motor in the mud hole.....in fact I'll bet the water level was no more than a foot deep, and I went through slow....so although I do see some residual mud, I wouldn't say that the underside is inundated with it.

Thanks for the input....

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Old 04-27-2008, 09:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
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The 2008's like mine, come with Disc brakes on all four, AzTJ....FYI
I knew that... and this is a TJ question, not a JK.
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:45 PM   #8
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ive always heard the same thing about mud and dirt killing your drum brakes..

my last trip to the badlands had my drum brakes squeeking all day long until i washed them out..

disc brakes in the rear will help with your tjs stopping ability since you do run bigger tires.. thats my next upgrade after my d44 goes in
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Old 04-28-2008, 12:04 AM   #9
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so does anyone make a complete swap over kit...i hate buying used stuff like that, especially something that will save my life plus theres no junkyards on longisland anymore

As far as I know they are adjusting properly, iv had them checked over by my guys at goodyear and they seem to just keep wearing down the pads....
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Old 04-28-2008, 12:06 AM   #10
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Tera-Flex makes a disc kit for the D35... might want to look into the Vanco Big-Brake kit for the front if you want tire screeching stopping power.
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Old 04-28-2008, 02:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
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ive always heard the same thing about mud and dirt killing your drum brakes..

my last trip to the badlands had my drum brakes squeeking all day long until i washed them out..

disc brakes in the rear will help with your tjs stopping ability since you do run bigger tires.. thats my next upgrade after my d44 goes in
Disc in the rear will not do anything for braking performance. They just don't get effected by mud and stuff. They also hold in the axle if it snaps on a c clip axle.
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flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:27 PM   #12
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water and disc brakes dont mix, my CJ wont stop for at least 20 minutes after going through puddles if i dont dry my brakes out, i have to dry then for about 2 minutes to get them to work, so i can see how sand would stay in there and grind away
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:34 PM   #13
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You mean water and drum. When drums get whet they tend to grad because they are self energizing unlike disc brakes.
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flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:25 PM   #14
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Disc in the rear will not do anything for braking performance. They just don't get effected by mud and stuff. They also hold in the axle if it snaps on a c clip axle.

i disagree. at the absolute minimum, the discs will work better b/c they'll stay in adjustment better than drums. i've yet to own a drum braked vehicle that keeps the rear brakes in adjustment worth a damn.

that being said, the conversion kits are usually spendy, and it wouldnt be worth it in my opinion. when i swapped rear ends, i looked for one with discs, and probably my entire swap cost less than the brake swap kits. (at least the ones i've seen)
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Old 04-28-2008, 05:23 PM   #15
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I've never had a prob. We have alot of cars in the family with drums. As long as the adjusters are cleaned and lubed and you adjust them for the first time they always seem to stay adjusted. Depending on weather they are leading and trailing or duall servo drum brakes they adjust different. Some are when you back up others are when youo use the parking brake and some are even different than that.
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flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:52 PM   #16
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I've never had a prob. We have alot of cars in the family with drums. As long as the adjusters are cleaned and lubed and you adjust them for the first time they always seem to stay adjusted. Depending on weather they are leading and trailing or duall servo drum brakes they adjust different. Some are when you back up others are when youo use the parking brake and some are even different than that.
ive always cleaned and lubed (or even replaced) the adjusters and have found they dont work well. somehave stayed halfway decent (my 99 dodge) but the rest have sucked (86 ford, 91 chevy, 03 nissan, my YJ {when it had drums }, my trailer, etc......)

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