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Old 07-05-2010, 08:25 AM   #1
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Camber is off?

I had a front end alignment done the other day. I got a print out that says my front left camber is off. It's -1.1 degrees and the range it's suppose to be is -.9 to .4 I was told something is bent. My driver side tire is getting a nasty wave pattern in it and I have serious DW at 45-50 mph. Is the axle bent or is it the tube or something else?

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Old 07-05-2010, 01:25 PM   #2
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probably bent axle tube. Adjustible ball joint installed on that side can fix it if you don't want to replace the axle.

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Old 07-05-2010, 01:35 PM   #3
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I'd suspect you simply have a worn ball joint which can be replaced. DW can be caused by a bad (loose) ball joint but it is more often caused by a bad/out of balance tire coupled with something like a track bar that is moving at its passenger-side mount. I'd first have the tires perfectly balanced and check that the track bar isn't moving around in its passenger-side mount by having a friend turn the steering wheel back & forth while you watch the track bar from the front. Check for other unwanted movement while you're there.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:06 PM   #4
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thanks guys. so a bad ball joint can cause the drivers side camber to be off? The mechanic who did the front end alignment said the axle or tube was bent (doesn't mean that's what it is) I'm hoping it's a ball joint though because that's much cheaper and easier. If I lift the front end off the ground and grab the top and bottom of the wheel I shouldn't be able to get any movement out of it right? If there's movement then the ball joint is going bad correct?
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:19 PM   #5
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Absolutely a bad ball joint can be the cause of an excessive camber angle. They even make adjustable ball joints to make the camber angle adjustable, Moog is one that makes a very good quality adjustable angle ball joint. That would eliminate the camber angle problem even if it's from a minor bent axle tube.

Unless you have been jumping your TJ or it was in an accident, I would be surprised if the axle itself is bent.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:27 PM   #6
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Alright thanks Jerry I appreciate it. I will check the ball joint tomorrow. If it is bad should I replace it with a regular or an adjustable?

I have been getting a clicking sound also when driving a lot. Could that be a sign of the ball joint as well? I was thinking maybe the DW trashed the u-joint and that's what the clicking is but I haven't checked anything yet.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:35 PM   #7
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I'd probably go with an adjustable just in case. What the clicking is would be hard to tell but it certainly could be the u-joint. Sometimes you can even look at the u-joint to tell it is bad by it starting to show signs of rusty dust escaping the seals at the base of one or more of the bearing caps.
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Old 07-05-2010, 07:27 PM   #8
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So with an adjustable ball joint how do I adjust it properly for what I need?

Also, I had the doors off today and I can't tell for sure but it sounds like the the clicking is now coming from the rear drivers side wheel. The front is still screwed up and I'm going to check the ball and U joints but what is in the rear that can make a loud clicking sound?
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Old 07-05-2010, 07:36 PM   #9
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I would place an angle finder vertically against the rotor (wheels straight ahead) and adjust the ball joint so the angle finder shows the same camber angle as the other side.
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #10
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Perfect thanks Jerry I'll do that. Should I replace both upper and lower with adjustable or can I just do the one that's bad with an adjustable?
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:02 PM   #11
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I'd try to figure out which is bad and just replace that one. Both don't need to be adjustable, just one.
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Old 07-06-2010, 08:52 AM   #12
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Can you suggest a good brand of adjustable ball joint and possibly where I can get it? I don't care much for the auto zone Chinese crap.
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bato View Post
Can you suggest a good brand of adjustable ball joint and possibly where I can get it? I don't care much for the auto zone Chinese crap.
You mean other than the Moog brand I suggested in post #5 above?
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Old 07-06-2010, 12:28 PM   #14
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Sorry thanks Jerry didn't see that
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Old 07-06-2010, 04:24 PM   #15
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1. So I lifted the front end and sure enough the drivers side wheel has play when grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and moving it. Passenger side is rock solid. So, how do I tell weather it's the upper or lower ball joint now?

2. As for the loud clicking sound still not sure what that is, maybe the bad ball joint or maybe the DW has trashed the U-joint don't know. any suggestions?

3. Also the drivers side (side with bad ball joint) has brake dust all over the wheel (passenger side is much cleaner) and my brakes have started squeaking. I put on new rotors and pads a couple months ago. could that have anything to do with the bad joint? what else could it be?
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Old 07-06-2010, 04:26 PM   #16
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Have someone else move the tire while you watch the ball joints to see which one has the movement. Or visa-versa.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:09 AM   #17
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Anyone know where I can find a good write up to assist me in changing this ball joint? I have the FSM just looking for something to go along with it. Thanks!
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:55 AM   #18
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This should help ....

Adjustable Ball Joints
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:39 PM   #19
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Thanks. Can a ball joint make a lot of noise when it's bad?
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:45 PM   #20
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Can a ball joint make a lot of noise when it's bad?
In my best Curley Joe (3 Stooges) voice, "Sointanly".
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:54 PM   #21
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haha thanks guys you have been a huge help and stress relief. One last question. I was looking at the napa website and for the joint that fits my jeep the comment says "By Design The Stud Does Not Articulate, It Only Spins. Up & Down Movement Is Normal"

That's for a non adjustable joint, Seems odd that movement would be normal considering the one that's in there now has movement and it's bad.
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:13 PM   #22
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Ok I had someone rock the wheel while I looked from behind to see which joint it is. Well neither lower or upper ball joint moves at all. What's moving looks like the whole hub and u-joint. Theres no movement from the u-joint within the yoke ears but it moves in and out with the whole wheel and axle. So I'm thinking it's a hub bearing and not a ball joint after all. Can a hub cause DW, a wavy wear pattern in the tire tread, camber to be off and make a terrible noise?
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Old 07-09-2010, 07:41 AM   #23
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bump
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:39 AM   #24
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If the unit bearing hub is so loose as to cause a bad camber and it has a lot of movement when you move the wheel, I'd be looking to replace it immediately. And yes, it could allow DW to develop. If that unit bearing hub is as bad as you say it is, you shouldn't be driving on it.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:57 AM   #25
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Well that's all I can see it being, theirs no movement from either ball joint. When I push/pull on the wheel it moves back and forth at the back of the hub/axle, what else could it be?
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:09 PM   #26
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What size is the axle nut holding on the hub unit? I don't have a socket that big I need to go get one, thanks!
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:22 PM   #27
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I am fairly certain it is a 33mm. If I was at home I would run out to the garage to verify that but hopefully someone here can if that is incorrect.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:38 PM   #28
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Thanks once again Jerry for the advice and being patient with me. Can I reuse the axle nut, retainer, and washer or does a new hub unit come with new a new nut?
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:42 PM   #29
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You can reuse that nut, retainer, and washer. Make sure to get the nut torqued correctly. I don't know if a new unit bearing hub comes with them or not, I replaced mine with manual hubs so they never went bad. I would get a new cotter key though.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:59 PM   #30
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Yea I believe the torque spec for the axle nut is 175 ft/lb if that helps. I reused my nut, washer, and retainer. Like Jerry said you will need a new cotter pin though.

Not sure on the size of the axle nut though I can't remember, 33mm sounds about right, anyone know?

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