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Can someone look at my tackbar/draglink angles?

19K views 69 replies 19 participants last post by  silvo_p 
#1 ·
Hi there,
You'all seem a helpful crowd, I've searched through troubleshooting threads to fix steer bump, but id like everyone to have a look at how my jeep is lifted, 7.5", it has quiete a few custom work, but it doesnt drive as well as id like.

A road bump makes the jeep steer/go sideways, and so does giving it throttle, and braking.
Also sometimes it seems that it starts shaking (like a little death wobble) but nothing violent, maybe because im still driving slow.

It seems like the bracket for the trackbar is higher on the left (axle) side, rather than lower on the right (frame) side



 
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#4 ·
I bet that's a hand full to drive, those are some interesting lower control arms. You should take more pictures of your front end including steering knuckles and some of the suspension in general and post them.
 
#6 ·
Yep, seriously bad geometry. This is what the relationship should look like. Looks like you need to get the track bar down to the stock location on the axle. Having trouble making out from the picture what else might be going on.

This. I am guessing that the steering came after the lift/trackbar bracket relocation and that is why they are out of the same plane.

There some aftermarket adjustable trackbars that can fix that geometry, but I would like to see some shots of the steering components (knuckles, rod ends, etc)
 
#7 ·
Fix your axle side trackbar bracket, lower your jeep a little then test drive it.
 
#9 ·
looks like whoever added the lift they thought the track bar should stay at the same angle so they raised the axle side mount. Wrong. They should have just bought a longer track bar.
 
#13 ·
That setup I used to run had bumpsteer because the trackbar was not properly setup with the drag link. Your geometry is off. It is a straight forward fix. Lower your axle side trackbar mount until it is parallel to your drag link.
 
#17 ·
Keep in mind that it's not the track bar and drag link tubing itself that needs to be parallel with each other, they rarely look parallel even when the angles are perfectly parallel. The two lines that have to be parallel would be strings (real or imaginary) stretched between the trackbar mounting points, and the drag link mounting points. Like the red and yellow lines below If those two lines are parallel, that's all that counts. The drag link and track bar may have enough factory bends in them that make them look anything but parallel when their true operating planes are indeed parallel.

Like this...
 

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#18 ·
I didn't see anyone mention the importance of the track bar being the same length as the drag link, or the importance of them being parallel to the ground as much as possible. If they are not the same length, they are fighting each other when the axle articulates causing control issues and undo stress on parts, and wear. If they aren't as close to parallel to the ground as possible, as soon as the axle goes over a bump, the axle is already being pushed to one side because of the arc of swing from them not being flat. I dealt with this issue a lot on my build it is really important to get this right . If not, you spent good money and end up with something less them what you started with. You can never get the two bars the same length on the axle end, just not enough room due to the knuckle in the way. you make up that short coming by making the track bar longer at the frame side. Then you also have the opportunity, if feasible in your case, to also lower it, making it more parallel to the ground. In this picture you can see to what extent we went through to make sure the track bar was long enough by hanging the bracket way outside the frame, making it as close as possible in length to the drag link.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I didn't see anyone mention the importance of the track bar being the same length as the drag link, or the importance of them being parallel to the ground as much as possible.
That could be because the track bar and drag link only need to be parallel to each other, not parallel to the ground. And the importance of that was mentioned above.
 
#22 ·
There you go Jerry, wrong again.If you actually built your Jeep rather then bolt on stupid sliders, you would know that. Parallel to the ground is also very important. If they are way off parallel, what do you think happens to the axle when you go over a bump? You want them as close to parallel as possible at ride height. If you don't believe me, you can do a simple school yard test to prove it. As an example, take anything, like a ruler. Lay it on a table and mark off 12 ". While keeping one side on the table, raise the other side. Do you see as you raise it, the end get further and further away from 12" ? By the time you raise it straight up, you have lost 12 inches. So, if it was your axle, every time the track bar is moving, it moving the axle one way or another, depending on how far it has articulated. That's why you want the bars as close as possible to parallel to the ground at ride height.
 
#24 ·
You are right about wanting the trackbar and drag link flat...in a perfect world. But we are not on Pirate. The average Wrangler Forum member is doing that kind of custom fab work. That is why you don't see much beyond 35" tire builds around here.

Know your audience. It's good to push them, but don't knock them over all the time.

What kind of sway bars do you run on that FrankenWillys, btw?
 
#25 ·
Lol...

Parallel Track bar and steering at a 45° angle will have zero bumpsteer. They do not need to be parallel to the ground at all.

Parallel to the ground will simply have less side shifting through the cycle. The problem with building parallel to the ground is limited uptravel.
 
#26 ·
Parallelism with the ground is not critical. Drag link and panhard mounting point parallelism with equal length links is far more important. I can drive my Jeep (~20* link angles, equal-length links, JK axle) and a well-built TJ with TJ axle and Currie parts (quite a bit steeper angles) and the difference in steering will be nearly negligible.
 
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#27 ·
You obviously know nothing about anyone, who knows anything about Jeeps. You're making yourself look like an idiot all over again.
 
#30 · (Edited by Moderator)
Nothing like giving people the wrong info. Why don't you take something 3 feet long and lay it on the floor. Then raise one end to a 45 degree angle. Now see how much of that 3 foot you lost ? When the axle compresses going over a bump, that extra inches you lost when raising it 45 degrees pushes the axle to one side, the pass, side, causing unwanted feedback to the wheel. Any of you take JP magazine ? October 2015, just got it. Turn to page 37. Far right side is the Off Road Evolution red jk. Look at the tie rod/drag link. Do you think that was an accident they are so flat ? Do you think pushing the axle to one side when going over bumps is a good idea?









Who thinks it's a better idea for them to be parallel at ride height? I understand it is difficult for us who doesn't have 150 grand to dump into a ride but the idea is the same, try to get them parallel.
 
#31 · (Edited by Moderator)
You are really that clueless, you get your info from reading JP mag....Great. You must have built your junk from a 4wheelparts catalog. You can search my posts and see I don't get involved in drama on here. My posts are either helping someone or wheeling related. Why don't you buy a TJ or quit posting in the TJ forums. Nobody cares for your opinion.
 
#34 ·
...and this thread has become junk... Thanks jackasses.


The guy comes here for help and his thread gets hijacked by people comparing dick sizes in jeep knowledge. No wonder the world sucks nowadays.
 
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