Cant shift into 2,4, or reverse after BL and MML!! HELP
TroutBumTJ"]Ok so I ended up not having to go into work today so i thought I would do my MML after doing my BL yesterday. Well after a daunting task I took my 2004 Rubi out for a test drive. TROUBLE immediately. I could not get it in reverse. Took it out and I found I can't get it in 2nd, 4th, or Reverse. Basically all the bottom gears on the shifter. What do I do now???
Loosen the 4 bolts up on the bottom of your transmission ( on the bottom of your skid plate) take a prybar or something and move it forward.Then try that if that doesn't work then move it back some.I had the same problem.
Must likely yours shift boots are inhibiting you to get into gear. You can try taking off your lower boot first to see it that fixes it. I ended up also "making" a new upper shift boot by buying a synthetic leather boot from autozone it think it was $10. Then I took the OEM rubber boot off of the plastic frame and slipped the new boot over it. Just be careful cuz the plasitc frame might be a little brittle.
X2 on that. I ordered a universal shift boot from jc Whitney. First use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the center cap of your shifter. Under that you will see a nut. Remove it. Pull off your shift knob. Then use a screwdriver to carefully pry the bottom of the shift boot out of the console, then remove shift boot. Remove the plastic piece from the rubber boot. Slip the new boot around the plastic piece. Some people will apply glue to keep the new boot on, I did not. Then put it all together. If your new shift boot is taller than it needs to be just push in the area at the lowest point of the boot. This will make the boot fit lower on the stick, allowing for easier shifts. The universal boot I bought was fake leather. Maybe $12. Looks fine.
Jeremy04 has a very good point and by loosening the transmission mount and moving the transmission forward will probably fix the problem. When you moved the motor it changed where the transmission needs or wants to be. Easy to try and may be your long term correction to the problem. It only needs to move 1/2 to 1 inch to fix it.
You cannot move the transmission forward, it is bolted directly to the engine. Loosening the four nuts in the skidplate to allow the transmission mount to realign itself is a good idea but I doubt it willl help the shifting problem as the below fix will.
The body lift has raised the console shifter boot opening the shifter protrudes through which has restricted how far back the shifter can be moved. Remove the 4-5 sheet metal screws holding the console to the floor and move the console back maybe an inch. Then drill some small holes in the floor for the new sheet metal screw locations and reinsert the console screws into the new holes to remount the console. Moving the console back slightly will likely fix the shifting problem.
__________________ When you have a choice, buy American.
Thanks for all the advice. I was a little confused about pulling the transmission forward as it is bolted to the frame and engine. I pulled the boot off and it will shift all gears but will still bump the plastic a bit. I think I will take Jerry's advice and move the entire thing back an inch. I was worried when I couldn't shift the gears, I thought I lifted the engine too high during the MML install and this may have damaged the trans or something. Happy to see that it's just a clearance issue. Took the jeep out for a little ride and everything rode well. Can't wait to get the new tires and wheels on. Is there a write up with pictures somewhere on moving the the console and armrest back?
Well I talked with my father in law who is a mechanic. Italian sports cars are his thing but he has worked on many 4x4's in the past. His recommendation was to loosen the crossbolt on both motor mounts, particularly the passenger's side since it is slotted. And loosen the transmission mount bolts on the skid plate which are also slotted. With everything loosened, work the transmission in and out of 1st and reverse a couple of times coming to a full stop between (not going fast or anything). This will allow the engine to torque in both directions and release any bind that the engine or transmission might be in. If there's still clearance issues, then as mentioned earlier try to move the transmission mounts forward a bit by using the pry bar technique, tightening them first and the motormount crossbolts second.
I thought this made sense and would be worth a try. I will let you guys know what I find out.
OK so i'm an idiot. I just saw that the PO had a transfer case drop installed. I noticed the square tubing between the skid plate and frame before but I thought it was stock. But the more I thought about it, it just didn't make sense as to why Jeep would design it that way. I hope nothing was hurt by having both the MML and TC drop installed for a short time. Maybe drove it 5 miles. I'm gonna remove the drop as soon as i get home tonight. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this was the problem all along.
Removing the transfer case drop should solve your shifting problem - the boots are restricting movement of the shift lever. The side effect of removing the T.C. drop will be that your driveline angles change and you could start to get some vibes.
The answer to your shifting problem is separate from the T.C. drop; you will have to move the consol back and perhaps relieve the sheet metal around the shift lever in order to get enough aft movement to get it solidly into gear.
Been there done that.
2001 TJ, 4.0 Liter, 3.73s, Rough Country 2.5 Suspension Lift, JKS 1.25 BL, JKS 1" MML, Advanced Adapters SYE/Tom Woods CV Driveshaft, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Track Bars, JKS Control Arms, Aussie Locker Front (Dana 30), Dana 44 Rear w/Trac-loc, Rough Country Rock Sliders, Rampage Fastback Softtop, BFG A/T 33x10.50x15, Stock Canyon Wheels.