Carnks, But Won't start - Spark and Fuel? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:51 AM   #1
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Carnks, But Won't start - Spark and Fuel?

Hey guys, I've been lurking for a while as a new member and even before without membership but have recently acquired a Jeep! I have been wrenching on my newly acquired 1997 TJ 4.0 manual for some time now as I had quite a bit to fix. I have however, run into an issue I would really appreciate some help with.

As of yesterday, I have a no start issue on the Jeep. It cranks over very healthy but won't start. It briefly had an issue where it would stall out at idle a few times or after throttle input and it would take a few tries to start. The issue has now turned into a no start. (This may be unrelated but when this was happening I got the common low oil pressure check gauges dash light telling me I had very low oil pressure (around 1-5psi). I did however hook up an oil pressure gauge and found that my pressure is not a problem.)

Onto the problem. As stated it cranks without a problem. I recently installed new plugs gapped to .035, spark plug wires, and the IAC. At first, I cleaned the original IAC with carburator cleaner and thought it my have been the problem for my rough idle/ stall issue and led to the no-start issue but cleaning didn't fix it so I installed a new one. Still nothing.

I have checked for spark which I am getting. the spark plug wires all arc'ed to the valve cover when turning over the motor.

I have attempted to put fuel in the throttle body and start it that way without success (I didn't have a friend to help so I poured a little fuel into the intake with an open throttle plate, allowed the plate to spring closed then poured a little more on top and feathered the pedal while trying to start it.)

As it looks like I am getting spark I'm confused as to why the fuel through TB didn't work - maybe I didn't put enough in or not a a constant rate?

Tomorrow I will be headed to pickup a fuel pressure gauge. I will find out if I have full fuel pressure at the rail.

I DO hear the fuel pump whine at startup.

I have pulled several codes off of the jeep.

I got 12 - for the battery wire to the PCM being disconnected - upon checking the terminal was loose and it was fixed.

Then code 17 for the car not reaching operating temperature within limits. This happened before the car progressed from stalling out to NO-start.

I also got Code 21 (twice) for the o2 sensors.

Then the NO-Start issue occurred

The IAC was cleaned/replaced

These codes where then cleared via a disconnect of the battery.

Then the next codes- 12 again, 25 for a fault in the IAC? 27 (three times) for
"Injector #3, and/or 4, and/or 5, and/or 6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal." Then 42 for an ASD issue or fuel pump relay issue.

AS it stands after clearing the codes again I only have 12 and 25 that remain.

The relays all seem good. The ASD relay and fuel pump relay were switched with the known good relay from the horn. I am getting spark so I don't believe it is a crank position sensor? I believe the issue may be in the PCM, since I figure so many seemingly random codes popping up may point to it. I will know about fuel pressure at the rail tomorrow and report back.

I appreciate your help in advance guys, thanks a lot!

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Old 05-05-2013, 10:17 AM   #2
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You will get "12" anytime you disconnect the battery, even to reset the PCM don't worry about it. I'm not able to help on the other.

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Old 05-05-2013, 11:54 AM   #3
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Yea, I'm aware of the 12 code I just figured I would include it in the explanation to give a full background of the situation. Thanks for your response though!
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:23 PM   #4
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Mine did something like that. I found a thread on ASD. Was a simple switch out to see it worked. Maybe for you too..
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:33 PM   #5
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I have already switched the known to be good relay from the horn to the ASD slot in the fusebox but still the same issue. With the ASD relay in the horn position, the horn works. The fuel pressure test results are on the way as I'm in the process of getting a gauge. Also, I'll be changing out the CKS just in case.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:37 PM   #6
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Hey guys, new crank position sensor in and still nothing.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:42 PM   #7
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Also, fuel pressure at the rail is 42psi and goes down to about 32psi while cranking.
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:59 PM   #8
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Hey guys update: I took apart and cleaned the throttle body and the IAC housing. I also remembered the the prior owner had the plug wires going from the wrong terminal on the distributor cap to the wrong cylinders. I ha taken the wires off and then gone according to the FSM for my year which had me route the wires this way. I switched each wire to the right one terminal on the distributor LOOSELY put the throttle body back on with the IAC housing LOOSELY bolted to the throttle body without even a gasket as I have to go out and get one, an the jeep started up! It was hard to start an required feathering of the pedal, but it finally started. The idle rpm range was much lower than normal (at about 400rpm) but it ran. I don't know however if the IAC and TB assembly not being tight and with gaskets is the reason it runs rough or if its because of the plug wires not being on right and if the real solution was the IAC cleaning and not the wire routing. I will report back once I find wether the hard start/idle issue remains once the iac is back on with a gasket.
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:19 PM   #9
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Hey guys, I really wish I could get a little more help I could really use it.

Anyway, the jeep starts now but is tough to start and eventually stalls out after a minute or two. I used gasket material on the IAC and bolted everything up. I need to know if my firing order could be off? I posted the factory diagram I used to arranges plug wires in the last post. That routing however seems to be why I couldn't start the car. After I switched from 153624 to 536241 it starts but is tough to start and stalls out. Switching it back to what I thought it was supposed to be makes the car not start at all. Did the prior owner mess with the distributor? Also, after clearing codes again I am STILL getting codes 12 which I know is expected and totally fine and 25. Why do I still have code 25 if I replaced the iac valve??? Thanks in advance for your help!
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