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Old 08-26-2007, 11:53 AM   #1
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Changing Diff Fluid

Hey all!

I've just clicked over 30k miles and figure its time to change out my diff fluid front/rear. Couple questions for you pros if you don't mind.

Is it worth going with Royal Purple? All I ever hear is good things. I don't mind spending the money if it'll protect my TJ.

Also, I know most people use a gasket maker type product.....anyone ever use an actual gasket? I saw these LubeLocker resusable diff gaskets. I hate messing with that RV silicone stuff and would rather use a gasket, but i don't want to have leaks either.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52416_103.htm

Thanks!

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Old 08-26-2007, 12:04 PM   #2
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Royal Purple is no better than any other quality GL-5 gear lube, I sure wouldn't spend any extra money for RP. Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol, etc. are all very high quality gear lubes and will protect your diff gears as well as RP will.

Few like that overpriced Lube Locker once they buy it. You may not like messing with RTV but there's a reason that gear shops use it, it works well, it's inexpensive, and it doesn't leak. Permatex Ultra Black RTV works great, fits anything, and it won't leak. Plus you won't have to pay through the nose for Quadratec's OUTRAGEOUS shipping and handling for the overpriced LubeLocker.

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Old 08-26-2007, 12:34 PM   #3
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I just changed all the fluids in my jeep yesterday. I used royal purple for the diffs. And it is alot less money than Mobil 1 synth 75-140 (costs $60 for 3 qts!) which is what the recommended fluid is for the rubicon diffs.

I also happened to use Lube Lockers for the very first time. Loved not having a mess and was super quick to do compared with the RTV. We'll see how it holds up but so far so good (no leaks). I have the rockCrushers diff covers with a machined surface so that may help against the leaks.

Just be sure to clean off all the old rtv gunk with a scraper. And if you can reuse the lube lockers I don't think they can be considered overpriced.

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Old 08-26-2007, 01:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ygohome View Post
I have the rockCrushers diff covers with a machined surface so that may help against the leaks.
Meaning the faces were made to be perfectly straight?

Easy simple cheap way to do something like that is find a flat surface... table works.. find a big enough sand paper. Place it on the table laying up and then put the item on top of it and just sand away. since the table is flat and the sand paper is flat on the table.. it will sand away any rough surface and leave you with a nice and flat surface. I did that for the exhaust on my rc... works perfect.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:56 PM   #5
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I changed my diff fluids about a month ago and used the lube locker gaskets. So far no problems. One thing worth mentioning is that about 5000 miles back I decided to install a Warn diff cover guard on the front and just removing the lower cover bolts and snugging the diff guard's bolts was enough to make the cover start to leak. I just lived with it until I changed the fluids. I've heard that this won't happen with the lube locker gasket. Just my .02.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:55 PM   #6
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I thought you change diff fluids at 60k along with the t-case and tranny?
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:00 PM   #7
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I change mine every 12k miles or when I'm bored and nothing to do on a rainy weekend
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:33 PM   #8
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FWIW-
Most shops don't recommend synthetic diff fluids for high performance applications. The factories use them because they allow for better fuel mileage. Any good 90 weight is a more durable fluid and used successfully with 9" Fords (which due to the hypoid gear angle is the worst for wear). A gear supplier that needs to remain anonymous used to work with the a Royal Purple Race car. The 9" wouldn't last until they changed out the RP fluid with STD 90 weight. Currie will not provide a warranty with their diffs if you use synthetics.

Many here will not be hurt by synthetics because of how we use our rigs. But, if you really are hard on your rig, use dino fluid.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:27 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Digger 5 View Post
FWIW-
Most shops don't recommend synthetic diff fluids for high performance applications. The factories use them because they allow for better fuel mileage. Any good 90 weight is a more durable fluid and used successfully with 9" Fords (which due to the hypoid gear angle is the worst for wear). A gear supplier that needs to remain anonymous used to work with the a Royal Purple Race car. The 9" wouldn't last until they changed out the RP fluid with STD 90 weight. Currie will not provide a warranty with their diffs if you use synthetics.

Many here will not be hurt by synthetics because of how we use our rigs. But, if you really are hard on your rig, use dino fluid.
I agree. I wonder how long it will be before Advance Adapters hangs up their agreement with Royal Purple that their Atlas II transfer cases come with now.
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Old 08-28-2007, 10:37 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the info!

I'm not very hard on my TJ since its my DD....so I'll probably stick with synthetic...

So it sounds like the LubeLocker gaskets probably work just fine, but the cost may not be worth it. I guess I'll give it a shot and see how they work out. Worse case scenario I get a leak and wasted 40 bucks.
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Old 08-28-2007, 10:43 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by DocG2828 View Post
Thanks for all the info!

I'm not very hard on my TJ since its my DD....so I'll probably stick with synthetic...

So it sounds like the LubeLocker gaskets probably work just fine, but the cost may not be worth it. I guess I'll give it a shot and see how they work out. Worse case scenario I get a leak and wasted 40 bucks.
Remember to leave the top bolt in but loose when you pry the cover off. That top bolt will stop the cover from flopping in the drain pan and getting lube all over your face and front.
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Old 08-28-2007, 02:26 PM   #12
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Remember to leave the top bolt in but loose when you pry the cover off. That top bolt will stop the cover from flopping in the drain pan and getting lube all over your face and front.

Thanks! I typically will just loosen the lower bolts until most of it drains, but I'll make sure to leave the top one on until I have it firmly in my hands.

Now off to find a decent fluid pump.
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Old 09-19-2007, 11:07 AM   #13
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Sometimes straightforward info is so tough to find these days. I'm thinking I will just use whatever Jeep recommends for my Jeep's diff's. 30 front, 35 rear.

Can anyone give me an exact fluid that Jeep recommends? Brand, numbers, weights, whatever. I'm driving myself insane trying to find just a simple answer on the internet.

Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2007, 04:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocG2828 View Post
Sometimes straightforward info is so tough to find these days. I'm thinking I will just use whatever Jeep recommends for my Jeep's diff's. 30 front, 35 rear.

Can anyone give me an exact fluid that Jeep recommends? Brand, numbers, weights, whatever. I'm driving myself insane trying to find just a simple answer on the internet.

Thanks!
Jeep recommends that you use a GL-5 lubricant. 80w-90 is just fine to use in both your 30 and 35. D30 uses 2.5 pints and D35 uses 3.5 pints.

Personally I use 75w-140 in my diffs as I work them pretty hard.
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Old 09-19-2007, 05:54 PM   #15
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Jeep recommends that you use a GL-5 lubricant. 80w-90 is just fine to use in both your 30 and 35.

Personally I use 75w-140 in my diffs as I work them pretty hard.
What is the difference ? Also, if you don't wheel hard are you saying it would be a waste to run 75w-140 ? What if you wheel hard, but just once a year ?
If it's a DD ?
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:40 PM   #16
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What is the difference ? Also, if you don't wheel hard are you saying it would be a waste to run 75w-140 ? What if you wheel hard, but just once a year ?
If it's a DD ?
To me the difference is that the 75w-140 is synthetic vs. dino and a little thicker. Normal driving and some light off road you'll be fine with 80w-90. It's cheaper and still provides plenty of lubrication. I just think that since I put my gear sets under a lot of stress with the lockers and the wheelin I like a little bit more protection.
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:15 AM   #17
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Jeep recommends that you use a GL-5 lubricant. 80w-90 is just fine to use in both your 30 and 35. D30 uses 2.5 pints and D35 uses 3.5 pints.

Personally I use 75w-140 in my diffs as I work them pretty hard.


Thanks for the response! I know these types of questions get old sometimes!

I'll probably stick witht he 80-90 since its mostly a DD with light wheelin' at times. If I really start wheelin', its easy enough to swap the fluid for something better.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:39 AM   #18
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Jack Is the synthetic worth the extra? GM requires it in the new rear ends but I think it's becouse of there lockers I'm open F/R 30-35. Some guys sy no synth. and some guys swear by it. Does it really not breakdown as fast and run cooler? Also covers I know this has been gone over to death I'm going to get Front diff armour now Rock Solid Or just a Helment cover? Which is really better?
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:49 AM   #19
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Jack Is the synthetic worth the extra? GM requires it in the new rear ends but I think it's becouse of there lockers I'm open F/R 30-35. Some guys sy no synth. and some guys swear by it. Does it really not breakdown as fast and run cooler? Also covers I know this has been gone over to death I'm going to get Front diff armour now Rock Solid Or just a Helment cover? Which is really better?
Not in the diff but in the transfer case the difference between the Mopar ATF and the Mobil-1 ATF was actually feelable with the hand. When I changed the fluid in my np231 to Mobil-1 atf it ran much much much cooler, after a 65 mile drive to NJ the tc was hot 'ouch' to the touch, changed the fluid there and drove home 2 hours later, tc was almost cool to the touch. It also shifts so much better into 4lo it's not funny.
When I went to Mobil-1 in the diffs I also noted that it seemed to roll better, sounds strange but that was what I first noticed. Had to go back to a dino lube in the rear when I put an auburn LSD in there, auburn said no synthetics. Still running mobil-1 in the front though.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:58 AM   #20
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My $.02 on it, I've put Castrol Synthetic in the Motor, Trans, T-Case and Diffs.

Seems the fluids are always cleaner then the regular counterparts whenever I change them.

Things like in the Trans and T-case seems like they shift easier in and out of gear changes.

Granted I've got a 2.5L on 30" tires, but A/C on in the middle of summer doing around town driving 20-21 MPG. Origionaly on 215/75-15's

Personaly I'll never go back to conventional fluids. I use Castrol because its not a "premium" like Royal Purple or as hard to find as AMSOIL. And if an emergency arises, punch a diff or a pan or a plug falls out, you can use the conventional equilivant till you can change the entire fluid again. Less of an issue because Castrol themselves sell blended versions of the same products.
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:58 AM   #21
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So cooler running with synt. That sounds feasable so now, My 01 Tj Has the 231 T/C I belive its the strippy 2.5 TJ was afleet Vehicle in Tennasee before coming back to Cali. The fluid In t/c does get hot going into the mountains But it smelled like Gear oil not ATF.
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Old 09-20-2007, 12:07 PM   #22
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So cooler running with synt. That sounds feasable so now, My 01 Tj Has the 231 T/C I belive its the strippy 2.5 TJ was afleet Vehicle in Tennasee before coming back to Cali. The fluid In t/c does get hot going into the mountains But it smelled like Gear oil not ATF.
It is supposed to be ATF, got into a rather heated discussion with a friend who is also a mechanic and it took a copy of my factory service manual to get him to button his lip
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Old 09-20-2007, 12:30 PM   #23
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T-Case is ATF+4 It's a synthetic virant meet and exceeds all previous standards.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/secti...tentId=7027046


Great info here:
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Old 09-20-2007, 04:07 PM   #24
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Not in the diff but in the transfer case the difference between the Mopar ATF and the Mobil-1 ATF was actually feelable with the hand. When I changed the fluid in my np231 to Mobil-1 atf it ran much much much cooler, after a 65 mile drive to NJ the tc was hot 'ouch' to the touch, changed the fluid there and drove home 2 hours later, tc was almost cool to the touch. It also shifts so much better into 4lo it's not funny.
When I went to Mobil-1 in the diffs I also noted that it seemed to roll better, sounds strange but that was what I first noticed. Had to go back to a dino lube in the rear when I put an auburn LSD in there, auburn said no synthetics. Still running mobil-1 in the front though.
Agreed. I actually only run the synthetic in my diffs to keep the lockers happier. I really should run it in the Tcase and tranny. I think the next time I change tranny fluid I'm going to use Mercon V in there. It's a full synthetic and I've seen improved shifting and cooling with it in TJ auto trannies in the past.
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:55 PM   #25
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Agreed. I actually only run the synthetic in my diffs to keep the lockers happier. I really should run it in the Tcase and tranny. I think the next time I change tranny fluid I'm going to use Mercon V in there. It's a full synthetic and I've seen improved shifting and cooling with it in TJ auto trannies in the past.
Hmm, there were issues with the AW4 in the XJ from people who switched over to full synthetics, it seemed to be random, some had no issues while others had major problems with 500 or so miles. I've never owned an autotranny except in a 69 willys wagoneer and that was a T400 but I did not have it long enough to change fluids. Same with my 76 Dodge van with it's 727.
I know some who went to Mobil-1 in the diffs on high milage jeeps and the rear axle seals started leaking, new seals fixed it but if not caught quick it will wipe the rear drums.

I've run Mobil-1 gear oil in my AX15 for the last 330,000mi BUT I bought two cases of it and it was gl3/4 rated NOT gl5 like the new stuff, sulphur eats the sintered bearings out. I'm going to change it this weekend with Redline MT90 which according to redline is GL4 rated, no sulphur. We'll see, I have my eye on a NV 5 speed and an NV6 speed in the event of failure
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:06 PM   #26
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I'm not 100% sure about all the workings of the AW4, but they are kind of apples to oranges in the world of auto trannies. AW4 is an electronically controlled trans and 32RH is a hydraulic trans.
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Old 10-25-2007, 09:22 PM   #27
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Old 11-04-2007, 11:30 AM   #28
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I've been putting this off for a long time now....so I went ahead and committed a sin....I let the Quick Lube place change my dif fluids cuz they offered me 2 for 1.....40 bucks to have them both changed out and I just haven't had the time to do it. THey used 80w90GL5K fluid, but on the printout it says they used 4.8 pints in the rear, and 5.25 in the front!

Would that much fluid even fit!?!?!? If that's true, am I looking at a problem?

Any advice would be great! Thanks guys.
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:09 AM   #29
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They shouldn't of used that much fluid in the diffs., probalbly trying to rip you. I personnally will not take my jeep to one of those places again. They put the wrong kind of fluid in my manual transmission which caused grinding and when I took it back to them 2 days later tried to deny it. Luckily I saved my reciept and showed them. They then had to run to a auto store and pick the right stuff up b/c they don't carry it in stock.
On another note my grandma had them change her oil and they forgot to put in the plug so her engine blew going down the road a hour later. Do the stuff yourself and save some money and agravation.

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