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Old 11-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #1
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Changing type of oil's questions

I currently use Trop-artic 10-30 part synthetic oil in my 2004 TJ 4.0, I was thinking of changing to Quakerstate High mileage 10-30 part synthetic because of the higher zinc properties. Should be better these engines. I should mention it has 106,000 on the clock and doesn't use or leak oil. What is you opinions on this? Thanks for your input.

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Old 11-21-2013, 06:05 PM   #2
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:12 AM   #3
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Only one opinion.
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #4
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I have one, and I won't even mention oil threads being in the dead horse category.

Change, extra zinc won't hurt anything. The most important thing is to change on regular intervals.

If you want more than just regular guys opinions, try blackstone to test your used oil sample. That can give you valuable info on oil change intervals, how you engine is working, and what any potential problem you may be facing. (Unburnt fuel, coolant in oil etc...) Think of it like your DR does a blood test.

I have used the Quaker hi mileage a couple of times, because it was on sale at china mart.
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:52 AM   #5
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I switched to Quaker state Defy 5/30 for winter and 10/30 for summer about a year ago. Its supposed to have high zinc content for older engines. I run it in my 1993 2.5l and have been happy with it.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:05 AM   #6
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Sorry to jump in but where would I go to get oil tested?
Isn't bad to run conventional or semi syn oil after using full synthetic?
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:02 AM   #7
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I don't usually change brands of oil once an engine has been broke in and used for a long period of time, but I was thinking the higher zinc content might be better for the flat tappet engine. Do you guys think it might cause it to start burning oil, or anything harmful to the engine? I've always changed the oil at 3000 without fail, and it runs great, I don't want to mess up anything. Thanks for you info.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:12 AM   #8
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higher zinc is a plus to a flat tappet motor, hence my reccomendation for the diesel oil.

Changing oil types will not effect usage, nor start leaking, onless the leak spot was already weak and starting to leak.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:14 AM   #9
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In 50 years of driving, I've used nothing but conventional motor oils and with as many cars & Jeeps as I've had, I've yet to have an engine failure. The secret to good performance and engine longevity isn't whether it's synthetic or conventional, or has extra ZDDP, it is simply regular changes of the oil & filter. Heck you could use Walmart engine oil & as long as you changed it at the right intervals, your engine would be very well protected.

To hear some proponents of synthetic motor oils, you'll have ongoing engine problems/failures unless you use a synthetic which, of course, couldn't be further from the truth. And the ZDDP thing is not a factor for our low-tech Jeep engines with low cam lobe pressures. I would run a high ZDDP oil if I had a performance cam with stiffer springs but I sure wouldn't bother with a stock Jeep engine. Afterall, how many in the various Jeep forums are having tappet failures from the reduced levels of ZDDP (zinc)? Any at all? None that I have ever seen and I'm active in several Jeep forums and have been for 17 years now.

When would I pay extra for synthetic motor oil? If it was wintertime & I lived in some uber-cold area like Bismark North Dakota where synthetic oil's well known better flow characteristics are worth having. The rest of the year? I'd run a conventional 5W-30 or 10W-30 like from Valvoline, Castrol, Shell, Mobil, Havoline, etc.

One last thought... you can change back & forth between synthetic & conventional motor oils all you want. You can even mix them if you run low and don't have the same type to add... conventional and synthetic motor oils are 100% compatible. That you can't go back after switching to synthetic is nothing more than an old wive's tale.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:46 AM   #10
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Zinc has been added to engine oils for years as a lubricant but its not simply zinc that they are adding. It's a family of chemicals called ZDDP which stands for Zinc dithiophosphate. All though it acts well as lubricant there have been issues with it causing catalytic converter problems. A layman explanation for why this happens is because the phosphate anions in ZDDP impedes the catalyst from working properly.
You're going to hear some people say you should always use motor oil with a high zinc content and then some people will say stick with a low content. Like Jerry, I believe it really does not matter as long as you change your oil regularly. Even if the ZDDP causes issues with the catalytic converter, replacing a catalytic converter is a lot easier than replacing an engine.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttmission View Post
Sorry to jump in but where would I go to get oil tested?
Isn't bad to run conventional or semi syn oil after using full synthetic?
No it's not. Direct problems will not arise from switching but you may notice some leak issues that you may attribute to the synthetic oil being inferior. See my post(#15) in this thread about it.
Tried Synthetic oil and now......
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:20 PM   #12
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try here

www.blackstone-labs.com

they will send the kit for free, $25 bucks for analysis.
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:47 PM   #13
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The other place (besides uber cold)I think syn has an edge is in turbocharged engine because of the high heat in the turbocharger itself that the oil flows thru

I think you get a slight edge in not cokeing a turbocharger with the syn oil

still should not shut off after a hard run without some less strenuous run time for cooling down. Just got to see a dull red glowing turbocharger to appreciate the heat/temps involved.

May be a little less critical with turbochargers with separate coolant flow but with the much decreased syn vs dino price difference I would still go syn in any turbo aplication
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:51 PM   #14
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I can attest to the cold flow theory tho. Im not promoting sythetic or bragging. But it gets COLD where im at. And i have noticed mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic works great in my TJ in winter. It just seems to get to the lifters and build pressure faster when its below freezing. Other than that i agree with Just having a service shedule. My wife had a pontiac sunbird with 300,000 miles on it when i met her. Her dad always changed the oil on time. And he used the cheapo filter and Pennzoil, ha.

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