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Old 11-08-2012, 09:31 PM   #1
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chirping driving me crazy.

K, here's the deal. 2006 X auto 4.0 about 47000 miles. I get this chirping noise only when the engine is in gear and moving at lower speed (under 20 mph). So far ive replaced the serpentine belt, idler pulley and auto tensioner. Chirp still there, I then checked all the fluids just to make sure nothing got to low on me. All good and full, no leaks, doesn't leave puddles or drips at all. Today I pulled the front drive shaft after reading a lot of the chirps usually are "sparrows" . I start it up and drive down my hill and no squeek or chirp. The second I go up the hill its back. So its not the drive shaft. Its driving me crazy no clue what it could be. Don't really want to take it to a shop, cause there is only one in town and I prefer to do my own wrenching. I thought for a while it could be a dying fan clutch putting lots of strain on the belt, its 30 degrees out though not sure if that would be it. Oh and it will not make any chirp or squeak at all when not in gear and moving. Not a single odd noise at idle or reving in park or neutral. Any thoughts?

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Old 11-08-2012, 10:28 PM   #2
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I would put money on the u joints in the front axle. Remember if it is making a noise then it is not lubricated. It may still be a solid u joint but not for long. Remember when moving, but not in gear there is no torque on the u joint thus no chirp.

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Old 11-08-2012, 10:31 PM   #3
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I'm with him, does it get worse kn 4wd?
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:35 PM   #4
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I was going to say front drive shaft u-joints, too...but if that's pulled, then it's obviously a no-go. Where does it seem like the sound is coming from? Sounds can transmit and be originating from completely different areas of a vehicle, but if you have a general idea, this would be easier.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:42 PM   #5
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Mine did that and it was the rear drive shaft to diff u-joint. One day it stopped and I thought everything was good....until the vibrations started. One of the the bearing caps seized on the joint from a failed seal. I'd remove both shafts and check the joints carefully.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:49 PM   #6
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Mine did that and it was the rear drive shaft to diff u-joint. One day it stopped and I thought everything was good....until the vibrations started. One of the the bearing caps seized on the joint from a failed seal. I'd remove both shafts and check the joints carefully.
Definitely. Like I said, sounds can transmit quite a ways under the body. They usually go rearward, though. When you hear the chirping of a u-joint, it is well past its wear limits.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:05 AM   #7
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Well, it sounded the same in 4wd. It sounds like its coming from under the jeep when it chirps. Its hard to tell though. Ill pull the wheels off and rear shaft in the morning and check the u joints, if its not raining. Ive never checked axle ujoints before. Are there any tricks or do you just turn the hub and check for wiggle/noise? Ill post an update after. Thanks for the quick responses
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:23 AM   #8
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It's easiest to pull the drive shaft (it's only 8 bolts) and see if there's play in the u-joints. There shouldn't be any.
Put your Jeep on jack stands and remove the wheels. The less weight, the better. Once again, if you can move u-joints and get any play, they are no bueno.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:29 AM   #9
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It's easiest to pull the drive shaft (it's only 8 bolts) and see if there's play in the u-joints. There shouldn't be any.
Put your Jeep on jack stands and remove the wheels. The less weight, the better. Once again, if you can move u-joints and get any play, they are no bueno.
Sounds exactly as I thought it should be. The front drive shaft was a pain with the skid plate in the way. The rear looks way easier. The front wheels I was planning on doing it that way. Good to hear I was thinking the right thing lol
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:35 AM   #10
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I was going to say front drive shaft u-joints, too...but if that's pulled, then it's obviously a no-go. Where does it seem like the sound is coming from? Sounds can transmit and be originating from completely different areas of a vehicle, but if you have a general idea, this would be easier.
He was saying the axle not the shaft. In the axle closest to the wheels.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:56 AM   #11
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Mine did the same thing. It's commonly tagged in searches as angry sparrows. Mine was the U-joint in the front, it only happened in 4wd. Yours sounds like the rear. My U-joints also would check out just fine, nobody could find an issue with them. I ended up just pulling it and taking it in for a U-joint change and balance - worth the money here - $75 out the door for new joints, grease, balance, labor. The shaft was stock, had never had damage, but was still out of balance. Get some Spicer joints if you do it.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:57 AM   #12
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On a side note, you can put the front DS back in, put it in 4wd, pull the rear DS and see if that fixes it. Just be careful on turns if you do that, it drives weird.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lusus_Naturae
On a side note, you can put the front DS back in, put it in 4wd, pull the rear DS and see if that fixes it. Just be careful on turns if you do that, it drives weird.
Not recommended with out an sye.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:27 PM   #14
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He was saying the axle not the shaft. In the axle closest to the wheels.
The OP stated that he pulled the front drive shaft. That's what my first guess was going to be is what I said.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47Hooker

The OP stated that he pulled the front drive shaft. That's what my first guess was going to be is what I said.
Oh...I suck at reading comp. My bad man
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:43 PM   #16
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Not recommended with out an sye.
x2

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Oh...I suck at reading comp. My bad man
And it's all good. I knew what happened.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:53 PM   #17
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Update: it was about 30 degrees out today and windy so all I did was pick up a set of jack stands. Hopefully at least the wind dies down tomorrow and ill get stuff checked out. Thanks again for all the help
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:11 PM   #18
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Sorry weather sucks up there...MIGHT save some time by using a flashlight and looking carefully at rear u-joints...flashlight only. The rears looked "okay" on my '04 but with the flashlight you could see the needle bearings coming out....all better now about 2 years later!!
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:43 AM   #19
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Not recommended with out an sye.
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x2
No, this is incorrect for the TJ platform. The YJs had this issue, but it is perfectly fine to remove the rear drive shaft and drive even with the stock slip yoke in a TJ.

It's very common for the centering ball in the front drive shaft to become worn out and cause chirping. If you've already ruled out the front shaft then obviously this isn't your problem, but it's something to check.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:13 PM   #20
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well I pulled the front wheels today and those joints looked good no wiggle at all, put the front drive shaft back on and looked at the rear drive shaft u-joints. I can now say I know what bad u-joint seals look like, they all look trashed. I have now ordered a u-joint tool from amazon and just have to figure out what part numbers I need for the replacement u-joints on the rear. Probably will just go to the local NAPA unless I find a better deal online with decent shipping.
FYI: I also found its hard to take a picture with a cellphone while freezing your ass off under a jeep while trying to light the area with a 3D Maglight.






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Old 11-10-2012, 10:14 PM   #21
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Looks like you found the chirping. Dirt, water and crap gets in those needle bearings and causes problems. You could just use a 3/4 socket and a BFH to get those old joints out...it's free and that's what most do. The u-joint tool should work but a cheap c-clamp from napa won't, ask me how I know .

Jerry knows the part numbers for the rubi spicer joints i'd get those.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:49 PM   #22
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i've seen people post about using that combo. I think I got a good deal on amazon for a u-joint tool ($39.99). Yeah just need to find the joint numbers and i'll be set....i hope.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:23 PM   #23
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Well, neither of the local parts stores carry Spicer u-joints and neither have the sealed non greaseable u-joints in stock. So I either go greaseable, which in this super wet climate i'm not really wanting to do. Or I order some online and have them shipped with will probably be the same price as having the parts stores get some in from their warehouse. Found the Spicers on Quadratec for $19.99 each but for $37+ shipping it's a bit steep for two small parts. I have an email into them to see if they can cut me a deal. Anyone have any good places online to order parts from besides ebay (already looked and none of the posts on Spicer Ujoints will ship to alaska) and quadratec?
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn
Looks like you found the chirping. Dirt, water and crap gets in those needle bearings and causes problems. You could just use a 3/4 socket and a BFH to get those old joints out...it's free and that's what most do. The u-joint tool should work but a cheap c-clamp from napa won't, ask me how I know .

Jerry knows the part numbers for the rubi spicer joints i'd get those.
X2 I saw someone disassemble a u joint on the trail yesterday with a rock, 3/4" socket, and a hammer
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:15 PM   #25
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You jinxed me. Went wheeling today and came out with a bad squeak squeal or chirp my self. Lol.

My d shaft is new as well as all the joints out back. I knew I had a front u joint on the way out and I think that's what it is. I on the other hand want the greasable joints so looks like I know what I'm doing next day off. I haaaaaaate doing front axle u joints.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:54 PM   #26
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Damn Lol. Sorry to jinx you. But atleast you had fun. Lol
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:20 AM   #27
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Well the u-joint tool has shown up in the mail a few days ago. Still waiting on the u-joints to get here. I ended up ordering 5 spicer ujoints from www.northerndrivetrain.com . cant beat $14 shipping to alaska, it's just slow as hell.



Weird thing though, the chirping that i've been getting went away completely for 4 days. and now it only chirps after i've driven to work, doesnt on the drive in, just on the drives while at work or on the way home. Hopefully replacing the u-joints fixes it, otherwise i might go insane or deaf from cranking my stereo to cover the chirping.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:47 AM   #28
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That's funny mine did the same thing with the drive to work. Mine wasn't the u joints. It was the bigger ball joint type thing up near the t case.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK2006TJ View Post
Well the u-joint tool has shown up in the mail a few days ago. Still waiting on the u-joints to get here. I ended up ordering 5 spicer ujoints from www.northerndrivetrain.com . cant beat $14 shipping to alaska, it's just slow as hell.


Weird thing though, the chirping that i've been getting went away completely for 4 days. and now it only chirps after i've driven to work, doesnt on the drive in, just on the drives while at work or on the way home. Hopefully replacing the u-joints fixes it, otherwise i might go insane or deaf from cranking my stereo to cover the chirping.
Whats your mileage

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That's funny mine did the same thing with the drive to work. Mine wasn't the u joints. It was the bigger ball joint type thing up near the t case.
The double cardan ball joint. I had my front DS rebuilt a yr. ago and it went out again. The idiot of a mechanic didn't put the dust seal back in on the sealed unit and it wrecked it Now Im having to replace it myself.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:53 AM   #30
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Whats your mileage


The double cardan ball joint. I had my front DS rebuilt a yr. ago and it went out again. The idiot of a mechanic didn't put the dust seal back in on the sealed unit and it wrecked it Now Im having to replace it myself.
just under 47000 miles.

I thought it could be the ball joint but i have pulled the front drive shaft and it still chirps. the pictures i posted up above are of the rear drive shaft u-joints and they look worse in person then the pictures. I'll swap out those and hopefully it fixes the problem. Going to check all the bolts under the body while i have it on stands too, just to see if anything is being screwie.

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