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Old 09-14-2012, 04:57 PM   #1
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Clutch help need asap.

I my clutch is new, already bleed the system. I have to put the pedal all the way to the floor and it still is engaged a little to pull me at a stop.

I am not sure if I have to replace the system or not. Hoping I don't but I don't know what else to do.

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Old 09-14-2012, 06:05 PM   #2
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I am not understanding if your clutch is brand new and never worked or has been in a while and working, but is now failing. What brand clutch? Did you resurface the flywheel? Why did you bleed the system?

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Old 09-14-2012, 06:36 PM   #3
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Clutch been in two months. Worked fine no issues. Not it won't fully disengage and I have to have pedal to floor and still doesnt disengage fully.

I just bought new slave and master. Gonna just got ahead and get it done.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:36 PM   #4
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Is it soft? Like it's only biting when you have it floored?
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:38 PM   #5
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You answered as I posted. Yeah sounds like the slave, or you still have air in the line.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loganallday View Post
I just bought new slave and master. Gonna just got ahead and get it done.
If you plan to replace both cylinders, do yourself a favor: buy the all-in-one pre-assembled pre-filled-with-fluid unit directly from the dealer rather than individual (aftermarket) master and slave cylinders. Trust me on this one. The money you save on hardware will be lost in time and frustration as you try again and again to bleed all the air out of the system. (Ask me how I know.)
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:44 PM   #7
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my new one had an auto bleeder. had to pump the clutch about a milliion times to make it bleed out. ok, not that many but a bunch..
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:56 PM   #8
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I have had two times in my jeeping life that the slave retainer straps did not snap completely and did not let the slave plunger extend fully.
take a pair of wire cutters and cut the plastic straps ( you can do it with it still installed). then re-bleed the system .
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:43 PM   #9
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I finished installing the slave and master. I bleed it some, and it's going to gears better, but not perfect. The clutch is still floored to disengage about an inch off floor but it fully disengages now. Any way to raise the disengage point or make the gears go in any better?

Also I read about the plastic things in the slave. I am not sure if they snapped, haven't looked. Will tomorrow but would that do these symptoms?
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:26 PM   #10
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Anyone have help?
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:36 AM   #11
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Did you pull the liner out of the master when you bled it? Damn near impossible to get all the air out with bastard in there.
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Monkey
Did you pull the liner out of the master when you bled it? Damn near impossible to get all the air out with bastard in there.
I believe so, but is the only way to raise the engagement point to basically bleed it for ever?
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:45 AM   #13
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bleeding your clutch on a stubborn ass jeep...

step 1) go get an engraving tool, a heat gun, duck tape, an adjustable pole, and a couple of beers.

step 2) tape the engraving tool onto the slave... make sure that the point of the engraver doesn't damage anything...

step 3) turn on the engraver, and put the adjustable pole on the clutch to engage the clutch..

Step 4) drink a beer or two... and let that thing go for a while....

Step 5) if you're in a hurry use the hot air gun to warm up the slave to heat the air bubbles so that they rise to the top... add fluid as necessary.. (caution: hot air guns get hot, hence the name "hot air gun". Drinking and hot air guns do not mix... trust me)
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:32 AM   #14
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OK so what if the probes is opposite? I installed a new clutch and now my pedal is extremely soft and doesn't engage until the peddle is almost all the way out. tried the bleeder valve.no difference. also before I put in the clutch I would get clutch chatter. like it shakes at launch and horribly in reverse. that stopped for about a week after the new clutch. now its back from time to time. I did have the flywheel resurfaced and the clutch is a Sachs.. just wondering if the slave cylinder moving slower than the peddle would cause this maybe that was my original problem
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:23 AM   #15
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Well I went back out. Clipped the plastic straps. Bleed some more and pumped a lot. The clutch still disengages really low, but it goes into gears a whole lot better without issues so far. Now I guess I just gotta keep working air and it will eventually raise the engagement point?
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:37 AM   #16
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Anyone?
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:30 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by svtyone View Post
OK so what if the probes is opposite? I installed a new clutch and now my pedal is extremely soft and doesn't engage until the peddle is almost all the way out. tried the bleeder valve.no difference. also before I put in the clutch I would get clutch chatter. like it shakes at launch and horribly in reverse. that stopped for about a week after the new clutch. now its back from time to time. I did have the flywheel resurfaced and the clutch is a Sachs.. just wondering if the slave cylinder moving slower than the peddle would cause this maybe that was my original problem
ok so i put in a new slave cylinder. my cousin works at carquest and got me one for 19 bucks so figured i would give it a shot. when opening the box i read the instructions . this is the only spot i have read how to bleed the slave cylinder. so easy . why everyone makes it sound hard is beyond me. save 100 bucks and bleed yourself. its probley the easiest system to bleed especially with two people. no peddle pumping and valve opening. just pump the slave by hand till the air bubble stop showing up. wow a tuffy lol. it does take a little time. but how much time is 100 bucks worth to you?
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:32 AM   #18
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oh and by the way. if you do want to just replace the slave i reccomend buying from carquest.com the slave is only 25.99 when everywhere else is almost 60.00 and every store in san diego had it on the shelf no special ording. but the whole kit is 158.99 which i belive is still cheaper than most places. but that is a order only part.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:08 PM   #19
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If you need some help pulling it apart again and starting over I'm near Qualcomm and have done several clutch jobs rather quickly. Have a garage at my apartment complex if you need that as well.
What clutch did you use? You might have the wrong clutch. TJ's have sealed slave cylinders so unless you jacked it up which I dont see how since its only 2 bolts and you stow it out of the way it shouldnt be a hydraulic issue. Did you do the job yourself of have a (typically shadetree) mechanic do it for you? If you did pay to have it done, and want to do it again I'll gladly show you how easy it is to do. Old-er post so I'm sure you've probably solved this issue by now anyways.

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