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Old 08-05-2012, 12:21 PM   #1
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Clutch Pedal Linkage Fix

The clutch pedal linkage on my 99 TJ broke and my clutch pedal went limp to the floor. The clutch pedal is attached to the master cylinder rod using a little plastic basket clip. The clip does two things. It holds the rod on and it acts as a bushing between the metal rod and the stud on the pedal that slips into the rod.

I searched the forum and found a temporary fix using a 7/16 e-clip to hold the rod onto the clutch pedal. The problem is that it’s metal against metal and sloppy. The clutch cylinder rod started to wear down. I went to the hardware store and bought a few inches of ˝” nylon tubing in the plumbing section of the store. It was a little too big for the oval in the clutch cylinder rod to slip over. I ground the wall thickness down using a bench grinder. I then used a couple washers as spacers and the e-clip to secure the rod back on the stud on the pedal.The difficulty was working in an awkward location. I removed the driver’s seat so I could get access to the linkage.

Here’s a link I found to this fix that helped and has pictures that does a better job explaining the repair. The title says fender flare but it does go to the clutch linkage page.
TJ Fender Flare Installation
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:07 PM   #2
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What a great easy fix!Doing that now...

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Old 09-21-2012, 07:40 PM   #3
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I got a little paranoid about the linkage failing again. It could lead to an accident if I could not push the clutch in while driving in traffic. So in addition to the fix I wrote above, I added two plastic wire ties to hold the linkage together as a fail safe. The ties don't hold a load, but if the e-clip fails, they would keep the pedal attached so at least I could still operate the clutch.
Maybe I'm just being overly cautious. The fix has done well for almost two months of on and off road driving.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:01 AM   #4
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I searched all over for a cure for that piece of crap plastic clip. if it wasn't such a pain to get to I would start over with this cure. Way better .
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:57 PM   #5
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Almost home in my 99 TJ Sahara today and my clutch pedal popped off. I knew it was not a serious clutch failure, but wondered what the hell. So, once I saw that the pivot pin was off of the clutch rod, I was under there looking for the missing c-clip that I was sure had popped off. I saw that little plastic thingy and just put it aside, not knowing that was the failed part. Couldn't imagine a plastic clip like that was what I was looking for. So thanks to the internet, and y'all - I now know the problem and the easy, better fix. I will be headed to Ace hardware tomorrow for a c-clip and some tubing. Thanks for the excellent advice!
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:06 PM   #6
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Just want to say thanks on this fix I have this problem and did not have the solution
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:34 AM   #7
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Thanks for the heads up. I had never even heard of the problem until now. I took a look at mine and it fell apart in my hand. as you can see in the attached pics the clip is half gone and the linkage has already worn metal 2 metal. Caught it just in time.....
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:16 PM   #8
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Dorman pedal and shift linkage bushing kit part #14041 You can find at most autoparts stores. I comes with several different bushings. I use the black sleeve and a 7/16 e clip. Seems to work the best.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikelab View Post
Dorman pedal and shift linkage bushing kit part #14041 You can find at most autoparts stores. I comes with several different bushings. I use the black sleeve and a 7/16 e clip. Seems to work the best.
Cool, I'm gonna have to stop by Oreillys on the way home from work in the morning. Mine is real bad.
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:10 PM   #10
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NAPA replacement part for plastic bushing

it may not be a dealer part, but NAPA sells a Pedal and shift linkage bushing kit...#6151422 that looks to be the right part. Will find out tonight!
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:17 PM   #11
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The dealer sells the stock bushings individually, the problem is that the part # does not show up on the computer. The name and part # for the plastic basket is: 254D Bushing Dealer Part # 4643448


When mine failed about a year ago, I found the same write up and considered doing it that way, but then figured the first one had lasted 120,000 miles and you can install a new one with no tools and without crawling under the dash...no brainer for me. I bought two, they were cheap. So far, no more issues.
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Old 09-02-2014, 06:52 PM   #12
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Just an FYI, a decent sized zip tie (one of the ones w/ ~ 1/8" wide) will work as a a quick trail fix and will also last quite a while - I broke mine on the trail and it lasted more than a year before I remembered to replace it
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:57 PM   #13
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First off I want to apologize for bumping an old thread. However, this exact problem happened to me on the freeway interchange the other night. I discovered my clutch pedal was loose when I tried to down shift. Usually it's because the rod falls out of the master cylinder from my foot catching the pedal from underneath. When I was finally able to pull over I found my pedal linkage bushing had broken. Thanks to Water Dog's post above I had the right part number and went to the dealer today to buy a new bushing. For the price of $3.85 there's no way I was going to search online or Jimmy rig the linkage to make it work. I bought two. One for me and the other just in case I screwed up replacing it and to have handy if needed on the trail for someone in need. Thankfully I didn't need to worry. The repair took five minutes while taking my time doing it. No problems at all.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:43 AM   #14
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When using the plastic tubing, how has it held up for you? Working on this fix now, and split between the tubing/eclip and just the stock setup and keeping a spare.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:21 PM   #15
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The e-clip held up ok for 3 years. I then switched out the manual tranny for an automatic so no more clutch pedal. However, if I was to do it again, I would go with the dealer part shown above. It's a pain to work under the dash compared to just slipping in a new bushing.
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:19 PM   #16
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That's what I ended up doing on this Jeep. The hard plastic of the master cylinder rod had already started to get some wear. This would be easy to fix in the field if you just wanted to carry a spare. I think the problem was caused by trying to get the start switch to engage, but I finally figured out the shop that changed the master cylinder assembled it wrong, causing the switch to not be depressed far enough.
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:55 PM   #17
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I think I have a master cylinder issue after fixing the linkage. I have gone through four of the linkage connectors and the issue I am having after installing the first one incorrectly is that I am unsure as to how the spacers go. The rod came out of from the firewall and even though the linkage is hooked up firmly, I do not have full engagement of the clutch. There is a black foam type spacer and a white spacer between the cylinder and the firewall. Does anyone know how these go together?
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Old 09-09-2016, 03:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfuentes05 View Post
I think I have a master cylinder issue after fixing the linkage. I have gone through four of the linkage connectors and the issue I am having after installing the first one incorrectly is that I am unsure as to how the spacers go. The rod came out of from the firewall and even though the linkage is hooked up firmly, I do not have full engagement of the clutch. There is a black foam type spacer and a white spacer between the cylinder and the firewall. Does anyone know how these go together?
Sounds like your master cylinder came apart. The only thing that should be visible under the dash is the master cylinder pushrod and the clutch interlock switch.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:12 AM   #19
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It did come apart and I am trying to figure out how to put it back together. There are some spacers that slide in and are not visible but I am either missing a part or I don't have the spacers correct.
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfuentes05 View Post
It did come apart and I am trying to figure out how to put it back together. There are some spacers that slide in and are not visible but I am either missing a part or I don't have the spacers correct.
There should be no spacers inside of the piston bore, where the pushrod contacts the end of the piston. There is the retainer clip, and then the piston. There is a white washer, and a foam ring that go on the end to contact the neutral safety switch.

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