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Old 02-04-2014, 10:05 AM   #1
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Clutch problems?

I have a 2003 TJ Sport 4.0 5 speed with say 78k miles on it. I bought it October 2012 with 48k miles.

In Octoberish (or something like that) I became aware of my flywheel. I just noticed this sorta strange, not always there swooching noise. It isn't a squeak or a grind or anything bad sounding...just a swirling swooching kind of noise.

A couple months ago I started hearing an occasional "chirping" noise. It's only when the clutch is pushed in. Not in neutral with the clutch out or while driving or anything. Just when the clutch is pushed in. It's not all the time but it seems to be more frequent now (and that may be just because I know what to listen for now). It kind of sounds like there is a spring loose scraping on part of the clutch or flywheel or something as it spins but only at certain spots. It isn't really loud but it's enough that with the hard top and doors on my wife, who's not actively listening for weird jeep sounds, can hear it.

Everything has been driving and shifting perfectly fine this whole time. About a month or so ago I changed the transmission fluid to royal purple synchromax.

Yesterday morning before leaving for work I spritzed the 4wd linkage down with wd-40 bc I heard it can start making some noise and thought maybe that was my problem. As soon as I got in and tried to drive away I couldn't for the life of me get the shifter into gear...ANY gear. I stalled out trying to feather the clutch pedal and get the shifter in 1st, restarted*and all of a sudden it shifted fine. After work...same damn thing happened. It may have happened this morning but honestly I was half asleep bc I had to be at work really early.

I'm wondering if I spritzed something I wasn't supposed to with wd-40 or if that's just coincide.

I can't see how I'd need a new clutch at like 75k milesish but, I don't really know how it was driven for the last 10 years so who knows.

Sorry for all the rambling. Basically, from all this do you think I have some clutch problem or maybe it's just bc it's been cold lately or something else I don't know about.

Thanks Yall.

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Old 02-04-2014, 11:06 AM   #2
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It sounds like the throwout bearing. The only time it is spinning is when the clutch is pushed in. It goes from 0 rpm to engine rpm in a fraction of a second, possibly causeing your noise. Another option is the pilot bearing. It is in the crankshaft where the front of the transmission input shaft goes. The pilot bearing does nothing when the clutch is engaged. It is spinning at the same speed as the engine and the the input shaft and would be silent. When you depress the clutch, the input shaft slows down and the pilot bearing begins to spin against it at engine rpm.

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Old 02-04-2014, 12:26 PM   #3
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Agree, most likely the throw out bearing. Since you have to drop the transmission to fix it, might as well replace the clutch at the same time. You can buy a LUK clutch kit here: 1994-1995, 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler Clutch Kit - LUK 05-065 - - PartsGeek.com for less than $100 which includes the clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. They also sell them for the 2.5L for seventy something. LUK is the recommended clutch for our Jeeps.
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:06 PM   #4
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Gotcha, thanks guys. Gotta say, not exactly what I wanted to hear but what did I expect lol.

How difficult is a clutch replacement and how long should it take? I read the write up on 4x4xplor. Any other good write ups out there?

Any ideas on why I all of a sudden couldn't shift into any gears? But if I turned the engine off and turned it back on it was fine.

Last question that's probably too subjective to answer... How fast do I need to get this done? Like am I going to break down and not get to work tomorrow or is this a few months away from being a REAL issue?

Thanks again Yall
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:01 PM   #5
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Get it done as soon as you can. My throw out bearing went out with absolutely no warning at all. One minute I am driving along, the next minute as I was down shifting my clutch pedal was kicking back at me and then went straight to the floor. When that TOB goes... It explodes.
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:30 PM   #6
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Yea, it's probably half coming apart and if it catches in a good spot it works. It will probably leave you stranded somewhere.

A clutch job would probably take most of a day for someone that hasn't done it before. You would need a few things that you may or may not have. An inexpensive transmission jack...Harbor Freight (or borrow one), Borrow a pilot bearing removal tool and slide hammer from O'Reilly's for free, make sure and have an E-12 external torx socket, and 4 jackstands capable of enough height to allow you to roll the bell housing out between the frame and ground.

I also highly recommend that you stop by a dealer and purchase a clutch return spring (it looks more like a clip than a spring) as the old ones are commonly rusty and break when you try and take them off...they are only about $5 and well worth having if you try to do this when a dealer isn't open. Here's a picture of it and an installed picture.
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:00 PM   #7
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Awesome, thanks Yall.

I just went out and tried it out real quick. Started in neutral and tried putting it in gear...no go. Shut down, start in gear tried putting the clutch in and go to second and no go.....I'm at work and get off in a few hours. Hoping I can make it home tonight!
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:10 PM   #8
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Take a very good look at your flywheel as well. I replaced the clutch and thought the flywheel looked good but now I find I have to drop it again to replace the flywheel because of extreme chatter.

If you can get anyone that has worked on transmissions at all I would ask for some help. This really needs to be a two person job ( IMO ) if you have never done it before. Good luck and be patient. It's not a quick job by any means.
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:27 PM   #9
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I did mine myself. Had lots of advice from Waterdog. I made a very detailed walk through that left nothing out. Left in stuff that surprised me too. http://youtu.be/BS4abyp0zfk good luck.
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Old 02-04-2014, 03:28 PM   #10
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Take a very good look at your flywheel as well. I replaced the clutch and thought the flywheel looked good but now I find I have to drop it again to replace the flywheel because of extreme chatter.

If you can get anyone that has worked on transmissions at all I would ask for some help. This really needs to be a two person job ( IMO ) if you have never done it before. Good luck and be patient. It's not a quick job by any means.
Great advice..!
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:52 PM   #11
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Yall rock. Thanks for all the good advice.

Assuming I can get home tonight, I leave in an hour, I'm going to start on it on Thursday.

My question now is, do Yall know anywhere locally I can get the Luk kit? If I order online I'm not super sure how fast I'd get it and I need it by Thursday morning.

If the Luk kit isn't available locally, any recommendations on alternatives? Like Orilleys AutoZone etc?

Thanks
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:05 PM   #12
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Stay away from auto zones! With amazons 2 day shipping it might get there fast enough. I would pay for next day air over putting in an autozone clutch. Dealer put one in mine I was replacing it due to broken bearing 5 months later. Hopefully you have a local source. I'd go to the phone book.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:06 PM   #13
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It may not be ideal but, given my time restraint would this kit from AutoZone be alright?

Duralast/Clutch Set (NU1916-4) | 2003 Jeep Wrangler 4WD 6 Cylinders S 4.0L SFI | AutoZone.com
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:07 PM   #14
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Aw dang Majnoon. Ya beat me. Guess I'll keep looking
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:25 PM   #15
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It only took me two days to get my LUK clutch from Parts Geek, but I'm not sure where they ship from. I'm in CA, and I see you're in TX, so YMMV.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:32 PM   #16
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I did mine myself. Had lots of advice from Waterdog. I made a very detailed walk through that left nothing out. Left in stuff that surprised me too. http://youtu.be/BS4abyp0zfk good luck.
That is a legit video. Storing in my bookmarks.

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:08 PM   #17
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That is a legit video. Storing in my bookmarks. Thanks!
Thank you! Glad it helped someone. It's long but so is the job.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:18 PM   #18
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It only took me two days to get my LUK clutch from Parts Geek, but I'm not sure where they ship from. I'm in CA, and I see you're in TX, so YMMV.
I think they ship from NJ

edit: my TOB is rattling too and I have spring chatter. I'm 50/50 on waiting for it to go ( it's been a few months ) or replacing it when I get the chance. If the TOB destroys anything with it i'll do it sooner rather than later.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:52 PM   #19
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It can put a big groove in your shaft Luke. Other than that is mostly falls to the bottom of the bell housing.
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:06 PM   #20
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It can put a big groove in your shaft Luke. Other than that is mostly falls to the bottom of the bell housing.
Hmmm...that doesn't sound too good...thanks for the heads up
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:31 AM   #21
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Well, I made it home last night. My jeep and I had a fight in the parking lot to get it into gear but after it got going it seemed to shift fine. I guess the throw out bearing is sometimes working? Guess I'll find out when its apart.

Due to time constraints I bought the Duralast kit last night. I might regret it later but I have to get this done now. I also bought a floor jack adapter and a set of E sockets.

Started peeling the layers off last night. Got the rear driveshaft, skid plate, and tranny mount off and started on the front driveshaft but ran out of time.

Got a ride to work today but my mind is back in my garage thinking about my clutch lol. I'm off tomorrow and hoping I can knock it all out.

Thanks again for all Yalls help.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:48 AM   #22
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The manual stick can be tricky to get off if you have the NV3550. Once you tear apart the console there are two small threaded holes at the base of the stick. You will need two #10 studs with 4 nuts that fit. You will thread those studs into the holes and then butt up 2 nuts on each side and tighten them. This will pull the mechanism from with in out so the stick can lift up. It can be tricky if you don't know about it. It was like a monkey trying to screw a football when I was doing it. Had it all wrong until I had an " ah ha!" Moment.

Correction: not two #10 studs ... What I meant is what's bellow

"install nuts on two M6 x 1.0 bolts and thread the bolts into the threaded holes at the base of the shifter. "
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:01 AM   #23
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Awesome, that's a great tip Hammerwalk. I read this thread about the M6 bolts.

NV3550 Clutch replacement tips

I'll swing by home depot today on the way home and pick up a couple.

Ps: love your Sig line
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:36 PM   #24
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Possibly a dumb question but...I see how you can use a bearing puller or grease to remove the pilot bearing but what's the best way of installing the new one? Does the supplied alignment tool act as a punch?
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:42 PM   #25
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The plastic alignment tool , as far as I know, is only for aligning the clutch and pressure plate. I used a socket relatively the same size but tad bit bigger to install the pilot bearing. Definitely use the slide hammer to pull it out. Takes maybe 3 or 4 good slides and it pops right out.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:43 PM   #26
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You just carefully tap it into place using a small hammer. There are bearing insertion tools but you can use a socket the same way for that small of a bearing.
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:12 PM   #27
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Awesome, I don't know why I didn't think about a slightly bigger socket. Thanks guys.

Ok, another dumb question...because this probably won't be the last one.... Do I need to fully remove the center consol or just the shifter boot to pull the shifter with the M6 bolts? I've been looking for a write up on consol removal. The bolts are in the cup holders right?

Thanks again Yall
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:23 PM   #28
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The whole damn thing. Those threaded holes are almost below the tub line. The center console is , I think, 4 small screws and passenger airbag module that you can just disconnect. That can be the tricky part. Mine didn't want to come off. 2 in the front cup holders and 2 in the back cup holders, if memory serves me right.
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:50 PM   #29
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Awesome, thanks. I so wish I was at home working on it instead of being at work today lol.
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Old 02-05-2014, 03:46 PM   #30
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It may not be ideal but, given my time restraint would this kit from AutoZone be alright?

Duralast/Clutch Set (NU1916-4) | 2003 Jeep Wrangler 4WD 6 Cylinders S 4.0L SFI | AutoZone.com
My AutoZone clutch has been in my 97 4.0 Jeep for 7 years and nearly 200,000 miles.

Someone please tell me what's wrong with Auto Zone clutches!

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