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Old 12-29-2011, 09:59 AM   #1
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Clutch Replacement

Jeepers,

I recently have been experiencing some clutch slippage on my 99 TJ. I was curious to see what clutch kits I should look to purchase. Let me know some of your experiences! I do the occasional off-roading but nothing insane. Also, I was wondering if anyone has come across any good write ups on changing out a clutch. Thanks in advance for the reply's.

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Old 12-29-2011, 08:21 PM   #2
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I bought the duralast from autozone,been buying them for years.They held up fine.

People here buy the Luk clutch kits and praise them.from what I read they are the best affordable option and are tough

heres a write up
1997 Jeep TJ Clutch Replacement

remove the transfercase and transmission seprate,its eaiser.I changed my clutch alone,help would be nice.
I also used synthetic motor oil(penzoil 5w20 in the transmission instead of the gear oil)it no longer grinds or pops out of first gear.Made a world of diffrence

oh and make sure your clutch kit has the right pilot bearing,I had to search a buncha auto part places to find the right one

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Old 12-29-2011, 08:28 PM   #3
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Go with the standard Luk kit from Dial-A-Clutch - Your LuK Clutch Kit Specialist which can easily last >200K miles. Avoid the overpriced Centerforce clutch which is 2X as costly and provides zero benefit over the basic Luk clutch. From having smoked my Luk clutch while offroading a number of times, I was shocked at how much clutch material was left at 161K miles when I decided to change it out of caution. As hard as I used it with lots of abuse, there was enough clutch material left for it to have probably made it over 200K miles.

The Luk clutch kit is something like $160 or so and includes everything you'll need... clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and pilot shaft.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:40 PM   #4
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i bought my jeep with a blown tranny. when i put a new tranny in i did clutch to, it was easy. i just bought a clutch kit from adavance for $120
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Old 12-30-2011, 02:37 PM   #5
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Thanks for the input guys, I'm ordering that clutch now.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:35 PM   #6
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I got the same clutch that dialaclutch wanted 210 bucks for off of eBay for 122 to my door.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:11 PM   #7
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$210 from Dialaclutch? That's odd, $155 is what Dialaclutch charges on their website for the 05-065 TJ clutch kit. If you priced the Luk Gold kit which is more $$$, that's not the recommended Luk model clutch.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:37 PM   #8
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$155 plus $60 for shipping to Oregon from wherever they are.
Edit not $60 but $41
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:44 PM   #9
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I bought a LUK kit at PEP Boys for $140. If you don't have a tranny jack, I bought this one from HF for $80, it was well worth it, removed the tranny and TC together.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:50 PM   #10
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I also got the pilot bearing puller from O'reillys on loan, it takes the bearing out in 2 pulls of the slide hammer.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:31 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Avoid the overpriced Centerforce clutch which is 2X as costly and provides zero benefit over the basic Luk clutch.
I don't know about avoid, maybe take into consideration benefits vs. price. Centerforce being made in the USA goes along way for me.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:44 PM   #12
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I went with a Luk. My wife the other day couldn't even smoke it as I tried to teach her how to drive a stick. Good Clutch
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:26 PM   #13
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Purchased the LuK clutch from ebay for 103.27 shipped. Id call that a win.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:48 PM   #14
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Purchased the LuK clutch from ebay for 103.27 shipped. Id call that a win.
That's an exceptional price if that was for the kit. Did that $103 clutch also come with the pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and pilot shaft?
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:07 PM   #15
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I sure as hell hope so.

LUK 05-065 Clutch Set | eBay
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:56 PM   #16
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Wow that's the place then! That's a great price, good find!
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:40 PM   #17
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Wow that's the place then! That's a great price, good find!
jerry will that fit my 06 2.4L 6speed? not sure if there is a difference in the 4L and 2.4L clutches
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:56 PM   #18
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I have the Centerforce stage one with a rugged ridge throw out bearing and I love it. Grabs hard when I need it to. wish I would've got a new fly wheel though . Have some clutch chatter because of it. If I had to do it again I'd go with a stage 2 but I like what I have. Recommend
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:42 PM   #19
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I just wanted everyone to know that I am very pleased with the clutch I ordered/installed. I would highly recommend it to anyone, and the kit comes with everything you'll need.
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:56 PM   #20
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I also bought that HF tranny jack. Removed the tranny with t-case attached. That jack was also a perfect help when I was doing my axle swap too. I so wish I got the pilot bearing puller as it was a pain to remove. I also used a luk clutch kit from autozone for around $140
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
$210 from Dialaclutch? That's odd, $155 is what Dialaclutch charges on their website for the 05-065 TJ clutch kit. If you priced the Luk Gold kit which is more $$$, that's not the recommended Luk model clutch.
Hey Jerry, what is the difference between the gold kit and the non gold kit? I'll be replacing my clutch in two weekends and wondering what kit in going to buy.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:43 AM   #22
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Hey Jerry, what is the difference between the gold kit and the non gold kit? I'll be replacing my clutch in two weekends and wondering what kit in going to buy.
Don't buy the gold. Partsgeek has LUK's kits for $93 for the 4.0, and I think seventy something for the 2.5L 1994-1995, 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler Clutch Kit - LUK 05-065 - - PartsGeek.com
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:24 PM   #23
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has any one gone at the clutch from the other end [pull the engine 2.5L]
the clutch is on the list for next summer on the wrangler
and the skid plate has not been off yet [trans/transfer case]

on my F250 and the Sammy that is how I usually do a swap out

just wondering if there is any issues to watch out for

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Old 10-31-2013, 05:53 PM   #24
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has any one gone at the clutch from the other end [pull the engine 2.5L]
the clutch is on the list for next summer on the wrangler
and the skid plate has not been off yet [trans/transfer case]

on my F250 and the Sammy that is how I usually do a swap out

just wondering if there is any issues to watch out for

SnoHam13
Unless you have another reason to pull the engine, it is a WHOLE lot less effort to pull the transfer case and transmission as an assembly to do a clutch.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:04 PM   #25
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Hey Jerry, what is the difference between the gold kit and the non gold kit? I'll be replacing my clutch in two weekends and wondering what kit in going to buy.
The Gold kit (a performance clutch kit) will have more clutch disc surface area to contact the flywheel/pressure plate, a higher clamping force pressure plate, and a different type of clutch disc material. In reality, you probably don't need it unless you're running a heavily modified 300+ horsepower 4.0L...


Although it's not a Jeep specific, this guy explains it pretty well.
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:49 AM   #26
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Unhappy Preformance clutch problems

Long story short, after tranny mount broke on 05 Wrangler had to fix a lot under the hood. While the transmission was out asked the shop to check the clutch and it only had 15% left. So needless to say we replaced it and upgraded from original to luk performance. Now having problems with the clutch. When engaged works wonderful. However, when not engaged there is a screeching noise. As soon and the clutch is depressed it goes away. Shop says it might be the slave and master cylinders.

Need advise before putting more money into it.
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:47 AM   #27
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It might be too early in the AM for me; I can't discern when this noise is happening for you. Does engaged mean the clutch is engaged or the clutch _pedal_ is engaged?. Commonly, from a mechanical perspective the clutch is said to be engaged when the clutch pedal is up, but I don't think that's what you're describing.

i.e. Is this the case?:
- Transmission in gear & clutch pedal up: everything's fine
- Transmission in gear & clutch pedal down: everything's fine
- Transmission in neutral & clutch pedal up: crazy noise
- Transmission in neutral & clutch pedal down: crazy noise goes away

Without other data, if a bad noise goes away when you push the clutch pedal down, it's likely not the slave or master cylinder.

- If a bad screeching noise starts when you push the clutch pedal down, it's likely the throwout bearing.

- If a bad screeching noise starts when the clutch pedal is up it's likely the flywheel surface, the pressure plate, or a clutch failure (e.g. broken/out of place spring)

- If a bad screeching noise starts only when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch pedal is up, it is likely the input shaft bearing.

- If it's hard to put the transmission in gear without grinding, or the jeep tries to move with the pedal down, it is likely the slave/master cylinder/pivot arm.

Obviously those aren't 100% diagnosis statements, so there could be some information the shop has that we don't which points to the slave/master combo.

FWIW, the slave/master can be purchased in a combo kit pre-bled with fluid, and replaced in about an hour or so if you are familiar with the jeep, and is how I would recommend changing it.

Lastly, the TJ flywheel is not really designed to be resurfaced. Many shops I would otherwise consider competent don't know this and resurface it rather than purchasing a new one, which can cause several issues, clutch chatter being one of them.
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:53 AM   #28
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Long story short, after tranny mount broke on 05 Wrangler had to fix a lot under the hood. While the transmission was out asked the shop to check the clutch and it only had 15% left. So needless to say we replaced it and upgraded from original to luk performance. Now having problems with the clutch. When engaged works wonderful. However, when not engaged there is a screeching noise. As soon and the clutch is depressed it goes away. Shop says it might be the slave and master cylinders.

Need advise before putting more money into it.
If the screeching noise is there when the clutch is engaged (pedal up), and in neutral, it is either a problem with the clutch friction plate itself, or (more likely) a bad input shaft bearing on the transmission. With the pedal up, (and in neutral) the only things turning are the clutch (as an assembly) and the input shaft of the transmission. The clutch hydraulic system would not make a constant screeching noise.

If the noise is more of a rattle, than screeching, it could be that the clutch return spring broke or never got installed.

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