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Old 09-18-2008, 12:59 PM   #1
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coil spring compressor?

i am looking to buy a lift for the first time and need to know what i will need. The lift i want is the rubicon express 3.5" standard. Do i need a coil spring compressor and how does it work? do i need extended brake line brackets? cv driveshaft? tcase lowing kit? anything with the rear axle pinion angle?
I have a rubicon so i dont need a sye, i know that much...

i finally have some money for a lift and tires but am really confused on what i need for a complete job. any help is great. please help!

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Old 09-18-2008, 02:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpman89 View Post
i am looking to buy a lift for the first time and need to know what i will need. The lift i want is the rubicon express 3.5" standard. Do i need a coil spring compressor and how does it work? do i need extended brake line brackets? cv driveshaft? tcase lowing kit? anything with the rear axle pinion angle?
I have a rubicon so i dont need a sye, i know that much...

i finally have some money for a lift and tires but am really confused on what i need for a complete job. any help is great. please help!
If you have a real floor jack and some truck jackstands, you will not need a spring compressor to get the old ones out and new ones in. However, it's a cheap tool and a good one to have around. I'm running the RE 3.5 SuperFlex kit and love it...no problems.

I would suggest you purchase extended stainless steel front brake lines and add their mono-tube shocks to round out your potential. I also suggest the TC lowering kit.

Have you considered the 3.5 SF Kit? It comes with everything (except shocks).

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Old 09-18-2008, 04:06 PM   #3
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No spring compressor needed. Remove the bottom end of the shocks, jack up the body, the springs will fall out. The longer ones will go back in just as easy.

No T-case drop needed. The angle won't be too much on the front U-joint, not with 3.5". The rear joint will always be right since you have control arms.

No SYE - as you said, you already have it. If you end up with too much vibration, consider a CV shaft.

I'd recommend the adjustable Rancho RS 9000's over any non adjustable shock. Then you can dial it in for what you are doing. I run mine at 10 off road, then drop it to 4-5 for the street.
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Old 09-18-2008, 04:08 PM   #4
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what can you run with the 3.5 lift 33 or 35 without a body lift
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Old 09-18-2008, 04:49 PM   #5
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No spring compressor necessary. 33's fit great, you could do a 1" body lift and fit 35's. I have the RE 3.5 SF lift with the rancho 9000s. I run 33" BFG A/Ts

Looks like this:
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Old 09-18-2008, 04:58 PM   #6
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coil compressors can be purchased from pepboys, harbor freight and places like that.

they are really nice to have sometimes even if they aren't always needed.

there was one time on the trail where a rear shock mount broke.... that allowed the suspension to overflex and the rear coils popped out completely. the jeep was on a hill and we couldn't move it to level ground... the highlift jack kept slipping out (very scary). I had my coil compressors handy and we were able to compress them enough to geth them back in the buckets.

they definitely have their place even in the garage when the coils just don't want to cooporate
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:20 PM   #7
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A spring compressor makes it very easy IMO.
Lift up the axle a little bit and take off the tire. then install the spring compressor.
Now you only have to lift the frame on that side 2-3" and the spring will fall out.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:23 PM   #8
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No doubt about it - they can be very handy at times.
But also DANGEROUS!
I had one slip off - the coil bounced across the shop, took out a light fixture and a customer's fender! Fortunately it missed everyone.

Now when I have to use them - the double kind - I wrap a tie down strap around them and the spring to keep them in place.

He He - I'm not sure if it really helps, but it make me feel better.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:34 PM   #9
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I only use coil compressors where the coil is secured.
Like this one:

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Old 09-18-2008, 05:36 PM   #10
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I only use coil compressors where the coil is secured.
Like this one:

those are the ones I have too.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:38 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mknight759 View Post
what can you run with the 3.5 lift 33 or 35 without a body lift
33" max, if you don't want to rub that is.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:46 PM   #12
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I am running the 3.5" RE springs, RE shocks..1.5" BL...my 35's fit just fine!! (although I did have to "adjust" the fender flares with my tin snips!!)
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
33" max, if you don't want to rub that is.
with trimmed bumpstops 35s would fit.
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:31 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by cherokee980 View Post
I am running the 3.5" RE springs, RE shocks..1.5" BL...my 35's fit just fine!! (although I did have to "adjust" the fender flares with my tin snips!!)
No kidding, I would have never guessed a 3.5" lift could run 35" tire. Oh wait, you also have an additional 1.5" from a body lift and you trimmed your fenders as well.
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:33 PM   #15
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with trimmed bumpstops 35s would fit.
Yep, just what we want... crippled suspensions where we limit half (the upward part) of the suspension travel.
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:34 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
No kidding, I would have never guessed a 3.5" lift could run 35" tire. Oh wait, you also have an additional 1.5" from a body lift and you trimmed your fenders as well.

You can see in the pics below where I "worked" the flares....




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Old 09-18-2008, 06:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yep, just what we want... crippled suspensions where we limit half (the upward part) of the suspension travel.
With a 3.5" Lift you have to install BS extensions because otherwise the (longer than stock) shocks would work like a BS and that would destroy them sooner or later.
The 3.5" RE lift comes with 2" BS extemsions.

Youīre right. That isnīt enough to run 35s. But if you want to run 35s with that lift you could trim the BS a bit more and the tires will fit. IMO a bit less flex isnīt that bad.

IMO a 1.25" BL and some hockey pucks glued to the lower spring perch (as a BS extension) will be enough to fit 35s with that lift without rubbing.
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Old 09-18-2008, 07:16 PM   #18
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As I said...My tires do not rub....maybe it's my mutt of a Jeep...?????
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Old 09-18-2008, 10:10 PM   #19
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THANK YOU for all the replies!

Sometime in the next month or so i am going to buy the re 3.5 standard. it seems that i dont need a coil spring compressor, fortunately i have access to a shop with forklifts so the install shouldnt be a problem

one thing i wasnt sure about is if i need a cv driveshaft or not? the standard kit does not have adjustable control arms, it uses the factory control arms. what do you guys think? cv or no cv
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Old 09-19-2008, 10:30 AM   #20
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RE's 3.5 springs generally give more lift than advertised, I'd expect you'll get more like 4", if not a tad more. So that put you right at the height, 4", where a SYE and longer CV driveshaft becomes a very good idea. However, you have a Rubicon which means you already have what is effect a SYE kit installed so only the longer CV driveshaft would be needed. If the price of that isn't a deal killer, I'd go ahead and install one which, of course, will require you also buy a set of rear-upper adjustable length control arms for setting the pinion angle.

You could likely get along without the CV driveshaft for a while by installing both a 1" transfer case drop kit and a set of 1" taller motor mounts but there's no guarantee you won't have at least some vibes. But since the cost of just a CV driveshaft isn't that much, I'd rather see you with a CV driveshaft and adjustable length rear-upper (that's all that is really needed for this) control arms. This would be a good long-term solution that will still work with even taller lift heights.
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Old 09-19-2008, 11:52 AM   #21
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I recommend (strongly?) a 1" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift. I have an 04 Rubicon 5spd too. My setup allowed 35" tires.

3.5" coils
1" body lift

and the 1" motor mount lift works wonderfully with the body lift... it kept me from having to invest in a CV driveshaft. and no messing with tcase shift linkage, etc. and definately no tcase lowering spacers! The 1" motor mount makes the rear driveline angle alot better so tcase drop and CV aren't necessary with the 3.5" coils. I kept the stock rear control arms and I only upgraded the front lower control arms so that we could adjust the caster angle. I had that setup for about 2 yrs and daily drove it to work and wheeled it most weekends

Drove smooth as glass, no bump steer or death wobble. It worked amazingly well considering the minimal cash I put into it. True, I have tube fenders in these photos but they don't give any additional clearance for upward tire movement... they are neat (?) and strong but don't give more clearance than the factory stock fenders. In fact, they reduce the upward travel because the tube is obviously bigger/bulkier than thin sheet metal especially if you cut/trim the sheet metal or just cut the fenders off completely without adding tube.

Without the 1" body lift you can run 35" tires with 3.5" RE coils but you will rub. you can limit the upward travel with bump stops. The main thing is that you will still have decent downward travel. But I highly recommend the 1" body lift and motor mount lift combo in addition to the 3.5" coils.
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Old 09-19-2008, 12:35 PM   #22
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IMO a bit less flex isnīt that bad.
If you wheel on easy less challenging trails, you're absolutely correct that less flex is no big deal.
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Old 09-20-2008, 06:49 PM   #23
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I recommend (strongly?) a 1" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift. I have an 04 Rubicon 5spd too. My setup allowed 35" tires.

3.5" coils
1" body lift

and the 1" motor mount lift works wonderfully with the body lift... it kept me from having to invest in a CV driveshaft. and no messing with tcase shift linkage, etc. and definately no tcase lowering spacers! The 1" motor mount makes the rear driveline angle alot better so tcase drop and CV aren't necessary with the 3.5" coils. I kept the stock rear control arms and I only upgraded the front lower control arms so that we could adjust the caster angle. I had that setup for about 2 yrs and daily drove it to work and wheeled it most weekends

Drove smooth as glass, no bump steer or death wobble. It worked amazingly well considering the minimal cash I put into it. True, I have tube fenders in these photos but they don't give any additional clearance for upward tire movement... they are neat (?) and strong but don't give more clearance than the factory stock fenders. In fact, they reduce the upward travel because the tube is obviously bigger/bulkier than thin sheet metal especially if you cut/trim the sheet metal or just cut the fenders off completely without adding tube.

Without the 1" body lift you can run 35" tires with 3.5" RE coils but you will rub. you can limit the upward travel with bump stops. The main thing is that you will still have decent downward travel. But I highly recommend the 1" body lift and motor mount lift combo in addition to the 3.5" coils.
Did you install it yourself? Im going to get a cv driveshaft anyway so in the future if i want to go higher, i can. Aside from that, what else will i need for a complete install other than shocks? Thanks, your rig looks awesome
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Old 09-21-2008, 01:54 PM   #24
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one more thing: do i need a dropped pitman arm?
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Old 09-21-2008, 02:06 PM   #25
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No.
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Old 09-21-2008, 03:27 PM   #26
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No.
Definitely. In fact, installing one with your TJ's configuration will just cause bump steer.
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Old 09-21-2008, 08:53 PM   #27
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drop pitman arms are only needed on TJs if you also drop trackbar at the frame using a drop down bracket... so if the tracbar at the frame mounts in the stock location then you do not want to use a drop pitman arm.
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Old 09-21-2008, 09:07 PM   #28
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Did you install it yourself? Im going to get a cv driveshaft anyway so in the future if i want to go higher, i can. Aside from that, what else will i need for a complete install other than shocks? Thanks, your rig looks awesome
Thanks. Yes, the body lift and motor mount lift I installed myself.

Here is my setup I had when those photos were taken:

- 3.5" RE coils
- 1" DAYSTAR body lift
- 1" DAYSTAR motor mount lift
- DAYSTAR transmission mount

- RockKrawler front lower adjustable control arms
- TERAFLEX rear track bar relocation bracket
- RE rear sway bar link extensions
- removed front swaybar completely
- CURRIE heavyduty steering
- RE1600 adjustable front trackbar
- ALLOY USA front and rear chromolly axle shafts
- YUKON 5.13 gears
- Rancho shock absorbers

The stuff in bold is what I think is required for the lift.

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