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Old 03-15-2014, 09:12 AM   #1
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Control arms question

I have a question on rear control arms...I was told mine are the stock ones but I have a 4" lift. REALLY new to the Jeep thing so bare with me. They seem really flimsy and I was reading about adjustable ones. What is a good set for the rear...i'm hoping it will help stabilize and tighten up the back end a little. Thanks.

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Old 03-15-2014, 09:13 AM   #2
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Savvy or Currie are good adjustable control arm choices. For 4" of lift, you'll want all 8 arms to cover the front and rear axles.

you'll set the length by determining your proper axle positions. here's write-ups on that: correct bumpstop length, and this how-to write-up.

www.savvyoffroad.com sells the arms...

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Old 03-15-2014, 12:44 PM   #3
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Thanks!!
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Old 03-15-2014, 01:51 PM   #4
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Most likely you currently have an aftermarket lift that has new lower control arms but still uses the stock uppers. Pretty common for the cheaper lifts.
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:53 PM   #5
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Doubt you have stock on rear with a 4" lift. Every lift ive seen comes with the 4 lower arms. Pics would help us determine for sure though
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:59 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 4cylToy View Post
Doubt you have stock on rear with a 4" lift. Every lift ive seen comes with the 4 lower arms. Pics would help us determine for sure though
4 lowers...stock UPPERS
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:10 PM   #7
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OP only indicated "rear". Thats why I said post pictures.
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:25 PM   #8
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Ok so it would be rear after market lowers with rear stock uppers.
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:33 PM   #9
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It's assumed but OP never indicated. Why get adjustable uppers with fixed lowered? You would want adjustable lowers before you switch out the uppers. Not to mention...why do all the work to the rear when the front end has most of the issues when it comes to lifting a jeep (I.e. alignment and death wobble). If you have the money, buy all 8. Im doing Metalcloak front uppers and lowers now with adjustable track bar. Then when I have the money ill start on the rear. Better to spend the extra money on the important things first so you dont end up wasting money in the future.
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Old 03-15-2014, 05:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4cylToy View Post
It's assumed but OP never indicated. Why get adjustable uppers with fixed lowered?
Adjustable uppers in the rear allow you to adjust your pinion angle to get rid of vibes.

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Originally Posted by 4cylToy View Post
You would want adjustable lowers before you switch out the uppers.
As stated above, adjustable uppers allow you to dial in your pinion angle. What would be even better would be 8 adjustable CA's that allow you to adjust your pinion angle as well as center your axle.

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Originally Posted by 4cylToy View Post
Not to mention...why do all the work to the rear when the front end has most of the issues when it comes to lifting a jeep (I.e. alignment and death wobble). If you have the money, buy all 8. Im doing Metalcloak front uppers and lowers now with adjustable track bar. Then when I have the money ill start on the rear. Better to spend the extra money on the important things first so you dont end up wasting money in the future.
How did you bring DW into this? I don't think the front end has "most" of the issues. It has similar issues. You still need to dial in your pinion angle and center your axle. Alignment isn't a problem...you can do that yourself after installing your lift.

The way the OP described the "flimsy" CA's with a 4" lift, I'm confident he is referring to the upper CA's.
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:06 PM   #11
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Gotcha :thumbs:


Being as the OP is new to the jeep world, I'd be suprised if they are getting that technical just yet. Because then you have to look into sye and driveshafts to fully take advantage of moving that rear axle around.

Im still learning slowly what all can and needs to be done 'right' (being the important word) vs just 'good enough' for these cheap lifts companies offer




OP...Moral of the story: look into all 8 control arms. And dont go cheap because you will be rebuilding bushings and causing more issues for down the road
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:11 PM   #12
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8 control arms. And dont go cheap...
This I agree with (adjustable). people tend to think cheap now and upgrade later. You end up spending more money in the long run. It IS actually cheaper to do it right the first time!

Like Unlimited said, look at Savvy, Currie, Metalcloak, or Rokmen. There are some others but the thing to remember is to make sure it has a TRUE johnnie joint bushing, not a knockoff. Or the duroflex joint that Metalcloak sells.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:15 AM   #13
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Sorry for the late reply...The reason I felt they were stock was I was told that by a guy working at a 4x4 shop. They appear stock to me and the upper and lowers are the same (besides length). They are the "rolled" metal looking and you can grab them in the middle and twist them. I mean, the actual arm twists, not the bushing if that helps. The front lowers are a tubed (round) style that is definitely different from rears. Again, thanks for the help and sorry for the lack of knowledge on these things...still learning.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:20 AM   #14
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The easiest way to sort through this is for you to post pictures of your lower AND upper front control arms AND your lower AND upper rear control arms.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:43 AM   #15
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Ok, I went out and took these real quick. Not the best but I think they will help. Don't mind the oil. I pumped a couple quarts into the frame rails to inhibit any rust.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:45 AM   #16
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First two pics are of the rear and last is of the front...
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:58 AM   #17
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stock lowers and uppers in rear, stock uppers in front and junk aftermarket double poly bushing lowers in front.

stock arms are "twist"-able for a reason....because they will actually twist torsionally along the long axis as the axle flex. This protects the brackets to some extent. That's fine in stock form, but with a lift the axle travel becomes more than the arms or bushings can handle. Aftermarket arms with stiff poly bushings at both ends, like the ones you have, actually allow LESS axle travel than the stock arms, so they will rip the control arm mounts off the axle.

that's why you install arms with Currie Johnny Joint's or Metalcloak Duroflex joints - they will allow significantly more misalignment, and take torsional stress off the mounts in the process.
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:32 PM   #18
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Thanks Unlimited....if you have time, would you attach a link of a recommended set so I can visualize what your talking about. Thanks again.
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:54 PM   #19
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..or just a thought. Is there a economical lift package that would be a good option?
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9935todd View Post
Thanks Unlimited....if you have time, would you attach a link of a recommended set so I can visualize what your talking about. Thanks again.
see post #2.

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..or just a thought. Is there a economical lift package that would be a good option?
see post #2.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:47 PM   #21
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Unlimited...is this the set I would need to accommodate the 4"lift I already have?
Currie Control Arms CE-9100

What other recommendations do you have? Thanks again.
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:22 PM   #22
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Yes that's what you need.....be sure to get adjustable track bars too to center and square your axles
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:29 PM   #23
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Are you sure you have a 4" suspension lift? with those CAs installed you may have a budget boost and body lift….
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:34 PM   #24
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Yes, pretty sure due to the measurement I took of the springs.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:31 AM   #25
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How can I tell for sure? I'm going a lot off what I was told by previous owner.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:35 AM   #26
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Measure the front springs. If they are ~16" then you have ~4" of spring lift. Otherwise, you don't. You could see both BL and BB pucks if they were there.
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Old 03-18-2014, 12:35 PM   #27
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I measured and they are indeed 16".
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey61 View Post
Yes that's what you need.....be sure to get adjustable track bars too to center and square your axles
....plus proper bumpstop extensions, longer front brake lines and some Adel clamps to secure the rear E-brake cables to the UCA's.

Also check to see if you have a t-case drop or SYE/CV rear driveshaft: What is a CV shaft and why do I want one?
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:07 AM   #29
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Got it....thanks for all the help.

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