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Old 07-13-2008, 11:49 AM   #61
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yes, water can transfer 4.18 joules per gram per sec while coolant i think was only 2...

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Old 07-13-2008, 12:07 PM   #62
Knows a couple things...

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yes, water can transfer 4.18 joules per gram per sec while coolant i think was only 2...
You're inferring that you remember from school that water transfers 4.18 joules/sec. where coolant transfer 2 joules/sec. and that you didn't just look that up on the Internet?

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Old 07-13-2008, 12:08 PM   #63
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i remember water but i had to look coolant up (2 months ago) since we didnt learn that...
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:50 PM   #64
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replaced the tstat with a heavy duty stant and so far so good. im gonna be taking a freeway drive tomorrow to see if it did the trick. I know my old tstat was opening because of the boiling water test but i dont know if it was opening all the way. if this doesnt do the trick im taking the jeep in to my radiator guy and am gonna have him find the clog via back flushing everything. I may throw in a multi row aluminum rad too. im just sick of this overheating issue.
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Old 09-07-2008, 07:24 PM   #65
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Hey Rawkon did you ever get your overheating problem figured out??? I have noticed a few others having the same problem!.I am having it also.but you are the first I have seen with the same as mine.It only happens at highway speeds or long 4lo operations.I have the E-fan also and just put in a new aluminum radiator after the first time mine overheated and blew my plastic tank radiator to smithereens.I had been running the e-fan for a couple of months when the first time I had this problem and the rad whet boom.I do not think it is the e-fan cause at highway speeds the fan should not be needed anyway and town driving mine runs around 190 but if I hit a hill on the highway it will jump to 215-225 and once it happened in Harland and once on the way home from Harland on the interstate going up a long section of mountain interstate.I stopped at the next town and sprayed my radiator and cleaned my air filter and it run around 210 the rest of the way home.Well I figured it was a t-stat sticking so I put a new premium 185 t-stat in and it did it again today but not to the point of boiling over just got to around 220.I did have a little rust in the coolant a while back so I am planning on pulling the water pump to see but if this is not the problem I need some answers if they are out there.I will also drop the e-fan and try the factory clutch fan a few days just to see but if anybody has any other ideas let us hear them please!!!1
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Old 09-07-2008, 07:54 PM   #66
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did you flush your cooling system? is there still some rust in the coolant?
the t-stat is new and it works?

then there could be only a few reasons IMO:
- waterpump
- dirty radiator
- not enough airflow

you have an e-fan? does it turn on when the coolant overheats on the highway? after i installed the e-fan the temperature dropped down to 210 from 220 on the highway. but the fan runs nearly all the time.

at what RPMs do you drive on the highway? the stock waterpump works best at +3000 RPM. when i drive in 4th with O/D i have 1900 RPM at 65 mph. without e-fan the temperature goea up to 225 degrees then. at the same speed in 3rd gear i have 2900 RPM and the temperature is only a little bit above 210 degrees.

i know that my radiator is the problem. that´s why i turn on the e-fan all the time on the highway.

you want to try the stock fan again? i hope you stored it in an upright position, otherwise the fan clutch will be damaged after some weeks.
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:23 PM   #67
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since i have replaced my tstat ive had waaaaaay less issues. it ran warm yesterday but i was climbing hills at 95 degrees outside. im also plan on adding some hood louvers to help with the heat under the hood.

let me know if the clutch fan improves the situation. I also want to flush the block out.
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:25 PM   #68
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Yeah I flushed the whole system before the new radiator,the second t-stat I checked before putting in and it(180) opens about 3 seconds before the 195 does.I have also cleaned everything out real good from my Harland trail runs.Yes the fan kicks on around 190 and stays on most of the time after that.Mine overheats with higher RPMs mostly while going up hill on the freeway.Today it started climbing around 3400 and hit 220 around 3900 but then I started going back down hill and it cooled back down to 200-210 but would go back up to 210-220 on every hill on the freeway.Yes I also have a switch to run the fan constant and it was on.Yeah I hung the fan on a nail in the garage.Sorry I had the wrong number cause it does it while accelerating up hils.
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:30 PM   #69
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I still have the stock 307s in mine so I have to get on mine a little harder than you guys that have regeared.
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:40 PM   #70
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are you sure you have all the air out of the system. did you drill a hole in the t stat?? are your hoses squishy??? they could be collapsing as well hurting your flow rates.
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Old 09-07-2008, 09:01 PM   #71
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No I didn't drill a hole in the t-stat but this doesn't seem like an air pocket.An air pocket normally occurs at the beginning at the time the t-stat is supposed to open and you get inconsistent temps I have dealt with that enough on the cavaliers.I do drill them before hand thoughthey are the worst I have seen for air pockets.This went all the way 240 miles to Harland with out a problem then hits on the second day up there and then hits once coming home and then run fine for the other 200 miles home.It is crazy.You may have a point on the hoses though.I will check them out cause the upper i did notice being a little soft.
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:13 PM   #72
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have you check the radiator cap pressure
if its not holding proper pressure it will get hot at highway speeds or climbing hills
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:00 AM   #73
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I think Rawkon hit it. Basic fact, air is thinner than water. Sometimes an air leak develops on the suction side - letting air in the system - air does not transfer heat very well. The leak can be so small air goes through the leak, but fluid doesn't. That air circulates without carrying heat to where it should go, then the air lets loose back in the radiator.

The screw type clams promote those air leaks. The band ends "pull" toward each other, sometimes causing the rubber hose to "pucker" a little, making those small leaks.

When he tightened the clamps, the "puckering" gaps closed up, but it could have made it worse too.

It helps prevent that "puckering" if you use a tad of grease on the hose end inside, and as you tighten the screw, twist the hose back and forth a little - not a cure, but "less worse."

Tightening, or first loosening then tightening clamps has solved many an over heating problem.

At first I was thinking the electric fan was blowing the wrong way. Sometimes it's actually hard to tell which way it really is blowing.

Removing the T-Stat - my experience sometimes helps, sometimes hurts (but neither for long.) Guess it might depend on how well the radiator is flowing?
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:43 AM   #74
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No my tester can only pressurize the radiator I do not have anything to check the cap.I will just buy a new one.I am thinking about just having them to send me both hoses,a new serpentine belt and a new cap.Then if the water pump is bad like I hope I will have a whole new coolant system from start to finish.
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:59 AM   #75
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i would still pressurize your system to make sure nothing else is leaking
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:00 PM   #76
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i would still pressurize your system to make sure nothing else is leaking
I did but I can't check just the cap by itself.The whole system holds 18lb for as long as I leave the guage hooked to it.Although if I took it to 20lb it would seep back to 18lb and stay.It would leak off to 18lb but no signs of coolant or leakage any were.My upper hose did have a bulge in it that was soft also my serpentine belt was in bad shape.I had to keep adjusting the tensioner to keep it from squealing when I first started it so I am hoping now that it was slipping at higher RPMs.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:04 PM   #77
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Well right now with the whole cooling sytem new it is running 190 low speed/town driving and 190-210 out on the highway.I ran it down the highway and it stayed around 190 until I hit a long hill and it got to 210 but did not get above that so so far so good.I will keep my fingers crossed.At this point if it still overheats I am lost.I do now have the factory shroud back on with the electric fan,new radiator,new water pump,new upper and lower hoses,new water neck and t-stat and a new belt.If it still overheats I have a 7 blade fan and fan clutch from an older Jeep that will be going on.If it overheats with that it has to be a problem with the head.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:06 PM   #78
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I had to repost on this one as the views for this thread are at 666 and that number does not work for me
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:16 PM   #79
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i wondered the same about mine if it was a problem with the head. i put a thermo gun to the motor and found no abnormal temps. one thing that did suprise me was the pre cats get over 300 degrees. now i was also thinking if you presurize the cooling system and it doesnt leak down, doesnt that mean the head is fine. as in no head gasket leaks or what not.

my jeep is still running warm on very hot days, which should be expected but im not even running the AC. I have some heavy duty coil cleaner im gonna spray in my condenser and radiator to see if it helps. my next step is aluminum radiator.
do you know if anyone has had any good results from using the hood louvers??? i know people put them on but i never here any results. i was looking at the gen right setup and i might grab the 3 pack. i know when i pop my hood i cant touch anything because its burning hot.
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Old 09-13-2008, 02:16 PM   #80
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Rawkon - why the electric fan?

Is it actually turning the right way? Wiring it wrong can cause it to go backwards.

Is it the only fan or in front of the radiator?

Still using the stock mechanical fan?

Does your temp gauge indicate it's too hot? Or are you going by it's "hot to the touch?"

Using water or coolant?

Lower hose is not collapsing at higher R's?

Cats at 300 degrees - normal for the pre-cats up by the engine, hot for the big one.

Hood louvers? You'll be the envy of all the low riders.
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Old 09-13-2008, 04:15 PM   #81
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Well I have been running around 190 in town and it starts to climb on the highway.Today the temp guage read 210 after romping it hard down the road and coming back so I shutting it off.And let the fan cycle to see how long it run after the engine was off well the fan switch is in the block and the fan kicks off at 175 so the fan kicks off and the guage is still reading around 205 so I pull out the temp gun and the block shows 187 and the water neck shows 173 but the guage was still showing 200.So I start it back and the guage goes back to 210 right off the bat and the water neck then shows 176 and the block 188.A few seconds later the guage is still around 210 and the fan kicks in so the temps in the block had to be around 185 by this time and the temp guns does show 187.I have not had a problem with boiling over since the Harland trip so I am hoping I got the actual overheating fixed but the guage is now wrong.All I know is I am starting to hate to try to get my own heep fixed when it is a puzzling problem such as this.Yeah I was just pulling straws when I mentioned the head.It shows no signs of a head.No water in oil ,no oily film in coolant,no lack of power,no misfires,no water from the tail pipe,nothing of that nature at all just the overheating at highway speeds so I am just puzzled and pissed.To morrow I will hook an aftermarket guage to check the actual temps and see.I have one other trick up my sleeve if that fails I will then give up.I have a 7 blade fan clutch and fan from a Wagoneer to try.If it isn't the guage and truly overheats with that beast on there then I give up.
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Old 09-13-2008, 06:24 PM   #82
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why the E fan? it works great and it have me performance gains. Im using a full shrouded flexalight setup.
yea it turns the correct way and the fan replaces the stock clutch.

my stock gauge on the freeways will run over 210 in the 220 range. I have a autometer water gauge that reads 220 as well. but becasue due to the location of my sensor on the autometer it will read lower once going down hill or at a stop.

im using a mix of water and coolant with water wetter.

my lower hose could be collapsing it wouldnt hurt to replace it.

yea i know now that the precats are designed to get that hot. i just didnt know that at the time i hit them with the thermo gun.

what i meant by hot to the touch is like if i was to grab the hood rod thing that hold the hood up. it would burn my hand. when i pop the hood its crazy ass hot inside, meaning way hotter then any other vehicle i have owned. hence my cusiousity about the hood louvers. and if they really help on getting that hot air out and cool air in.
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Old 09-13-2008, 07:01 PM   #83
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A buddy has 2 hood louvers in his rubicon. He said that now with the louvers the temperature is about 10 degrees lower at slow speeds. His E-fan runs only half as often than before. And he can touch the underside of the hood now without burning his hands.
I ordered these louvers, they´ll be here on monday.

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Old 09-13-2008, 07:47 PM   #84
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those look good nico. where are you getting them from?
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:09 PM   #85
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They cost 19.99$ at a local boat shop.
I bought the bigger ones on the left.

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Old 09-15-2008, 05:20 PM   #86
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Just wanted to let y'all know I think my problem is fixed.I put a new temperature sensor in and a bottle of Water Wetter and drove it up the long hill out of town and then hit the highway and the temps never went over 205 the whole way.Now this hill out of town is a fairly long uphill stretch of road and the temps before were showing around 220 by the time I got to the top and then cooled back to 210(factory norm)then once I hit the highway it would go back up to 220 then on to 230 and run there so I think the guage was off or the Water Wetter works really good,one of the twoI think the reason for boiling over in Harland and again on the way home was the combo of the water pump bearing,the loose/worn belt and the dirty radiator and air filter.Hope this problem never comes back on anything.Thanks for all your alls help
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Old 09-15-2008, 09:39 PM   #87
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water wetter does work well. i hope that solves the problem man that would be sweeet.
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:16 PM   #88
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Yeah I done a lot of research on coolant additives over the last few weeks looking an aid or a push toward a solution and Water Wetter was what looked to be the most upheld additive on the market with Royal Purple coming in a close second.But by changing the temp sensor the guage is now only about 5-10 degrees warmer than my temp gun is showing instead of 20-30 degrees hotter like it was with the old sensor.So I think the actual boil over in Harland fried the sensor.That I think was caused by the pump bearing and the belt being wore out and not at the right tension.

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