alright...i know that if i get a 4 inch lift, it comes with a transfer case lowering kit to reduce vibrations, while a 2 inch doesn't because it isn't enough lift for vibrations...so could i get a 2 inch lift (which doesn't come with a transfer case lowering kit) and then get 2 inch coil spacers to add up to 4 inches of lift without having the vibrations of a 4 inch lift...would the spacers give it vibration just like a 4 inch lift or would it not affect it...(would it stay the same after the spacers as it did before)
if i do decide to go that route, do i use the shocks that come with the 2 inch suspension lift even after i add the spacers?...or do i have to change to longer shocks after the spacers?
thanks...the reason for the first question was because...i dont want to go with a 2 inch suspension lift and 2 inch spacers and have the vibrations of a 4 inch suspension lift when i can just get a 4 inch suspension lift in the first place...but it is a different story if the spacers dont affect it and i wont get any more vibrations with the spacers and it will stay the same as before...espescially since it won't come with a transfer case lowering kit and i would have NOTHING AT ALL to reduce vibrations
I don't know about all your questions, but I have a 2" spacer lift from skyjacker.. The spacers can't "slide out" from the coil.. The spacer slides over the bumpstop.. But I like my 2" spacer lift, HOWEVER I wish I would have just spent an extra $250 and gotten the rough country 4" suspension lift.. I'm running 31" super swampers ltb's.. But if you really want 4" of lift and don't want to do a suspension lift.. I'd do a 2" spacer lift and then a 2" body lift.. It's cheap and pretty simple..
bigjeep, if you want or need 4" just spend the 2K and get a suspension lift, plus adjustable uppers, SYE, cv driveshaft, and you are done.
I went that route , starting with the 4" rough country,(including dropped pitman arm) added the sye, shaft and uppers about 1 week later, putting the transfer case back where it belongs. It drove me nuts for the 1 week to pop the hood and see the rear engine drop.
I also had to take the front most skid plate off and notch the inverted "c" out of it as the front shaft hit it under hard load.
Then I added the correct speedo gear.
Jeep engineers could drive it and not tell it from one of their designs (other than firmness). I run 33's and could probably fit 35's under it.
You will have the same issues with 2" lift and 2" spacers as you have with a 4" lift because all of the lift is happening in the suspension. If you want to avoid the transfer case drop/sye install, you can do a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift to clear your tires.
Originally Posted by Scout
I like "prick".
Go ahead...quote me on that.
"Hold my beer while I kiss your girlfriend... you have to be good for something"
If you have to ask what it is or what it does, you don't need it, and you will need help to install it!
I agree with jeeperman and sound hound you are still achieving 4 inches of lift via the suspension. Vibes will most likely occur. Here is what I did 2.5 ome suspension with heavy duty coils all around gained 3 inches of lift via coils then added 1 inch coil spacers on top. But to off set the vibes I did a mml (motor mount lift) which corrects the driveline angle. I also added a 1.25inch body lift. I run 33's but could clear 35's but but but read but I could not flex at all with 35's. I wheel disco'd and I still stuff the 33's in the fenders bumpstops will help. I did this all for about a grand. I have also added extended rear swaybar links and rear shock relocaters(sp?) to help with rear axle flex. I hope this helps. Also if I were to do it all over again and had the cash I would go re superflex 3.5.
2k Sahara ome, kilby, warn, tkh fab, kuhmo, jks, xm, jeeperman and pretty white paint. My children dig it.
dont body lifts mess up stuff??
They are kind of cheesy (what do you expect from a guy in Wisconsin)?
Depending on the amount of lift, and the vehicle, linkages, etc...
many times have to be extended.
Also they can leave voids between the frame and body that can look pretty tacky.
The 4" rough country I used ($ 550 complete, shipped) could have been driven on for quite some time without damage, it is just that it had an oscillation at the 50-60 mph point that drove me nuts (I have been known to be anal) and I wanted it perfect.
thanks...i think i might just use a little more money and spend a little more and just go with a complete 4 inch suspension lift instead of spacers or a body lift with just a 2 inch suspension...by the way...how do you like your rough country lift other than that little problem (oh and what do you mean by "oscillation"...do you mean problem?)
i have looked at rough country lifts and they seem to be good and i have heard good things about them and best of all...it is cheap...and it includes everything (right??)
In reverse order,
the Rough country came with springs, shocks, fixed length lower control arms, dropped pitman arm, sway bar links, transfer case lowering blocks, and all necessary brackets and hardware. It was complete.
Depending on tire size I would spend $ 35. and get a better steering stabilizer.
@ 50 mph to 60 I would get a small hum, and vibration which would "pulsate" through my seat, in the steering wheel, and make the change in the console jingle.
So far (only about 2000 miles on it) I love it. It is much firmer than the stock suspension. We have some nice windy roads out here, which I can take at 55 mph with zero body roll, and yet over rough terrain it doesn't try to knock your'e teeth out. Have yet to hit a man hole cover or pot hole that has that "slamming" effect.
It is still in the tar baby stages until I get a few scraches on it
and and then I will know what its off road capabilities are.
On a side note, I run 33 x 12.5 tires, and keep them aired down (24-30 psi) to "wear" evenly (@ $900 for 5) which helps smooth things out a bit. I would suspect narrower tires may ride a tad "rougher".
i've been thinking and i probably should just save up a little more for a little longer and make sure i do everything right the first time...so im pretty sure that i will get the rough country...BUT i have been looking at the "X-series" stage II rough country 4 inch lift kit and i see that it comes with adjustable control arms...which i've heard is really good...so i might just spend a little more and get something really good like that...do you know anything about the x-series kit that comes with the adjustable control arms?...if it is not much better i can easily settle for the standard as i have heard great things about it and it is cheap
Don't know anything about the X-series RC, but you WILL need adjustable control arms. Are they upper, lower, or both. Adjustable uppers make it easier to set your pinion angle. Adjustable LCAs change your wheelbase.
LCA's? Long(?) control arms??...i am pretty sure that it comes with front and rear upper and lower adjustable control arms...on rough country's website it says that it comes with that...so i should get that because it comes with the adjustable control arms and it comes with them...right? and why do i need them?
you are sayin that i need them...and the x-series RC comes with them so i will probably get it since it comes with the adjustable front and rear upper and lower control arms?
LCAs=lower control arms. What I am saying is that you will in all likelihood have driveline vibrations after the lift is installed, even with the TC drop. This means you will need sye and new rear driveshaft. This means you will need a way to adjust your rear pinion angle. This means you will need adjustable rear upper control arms. Knowing what I know now, I would have gone with the X-Series kit.