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Old 04-30-2008, 09:02 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
He said something about excessive electricity building up in the secondary side of the coil and melting the windings.
No such thing, he was either filling you full of smoke or he is electrically/electronically challenged as are most mechanics, even a shop teacher.

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Old 05-03-2008, 04:12 PM   #32
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Okay, I am back. Here is the short story, I sprayed some carb cleaner in the air intake and the wrangler fired and it cleaned out the throttle bottle. The wrangler ran fine for a about a day. Now its back to doing the exact same thing again. Is there a way to test the fuel pump other than the starting method, thats not working. I really cant afford to replace the fuel pump if it does not need to be replaced. Also is there a way to test the ignition? I just read in the posts about the relay might be a problem, is there a way to test that as well?

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Old 05-03-2008, 04:19 PM   #33
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fuel pump... go inside the jeep, open the door.. buckle your seat belt and turn it to on (not crank), you should hear a whine from the back for 2 seconds. That is the fuel pump. It will turn off after the 2 seconds. From you spraying carb cleaner (not a good idea since you have a throttle body not a carb) this points me to believe yoru problem is throttle body related. If its ur fuel pump it will run for maybe a minute and it will die. Take some Throttle body cleaner and clean the Throttle Body.
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:14 PM   #34
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i understand the fuel pump bit, but the issue is the pump is turning on and off. I can turn the key and here the pump buzzing for about 3 seconds then turning off, unless its cranking. The throttle bottle is spotless, and looks great. I tried that trick just to see if I could make it fire. Now its back to cranking and cranking with no fire. I do not want to try the carb cleaner again.... Is there any sensors in the air cleaner that could cause it not to fire.
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Old 05-03-2008, 06:35 PM   #35
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could it possibly be the distributor? I'm having the same problem and when i hit bumps the engine cuts out.

I don't know if it's possibly but maybe there is a way to hook up a psi guage to your fuel line and you will be able to see the drop in pressure, if there is some, and if not you know to look somewhere else for a problem.
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Old 05-03-2008, 08:24 PM   #36
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What about the little sensors in the throttle body?
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Old 05-05-2008, 11:22 AM   #37
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is there a way to test the sensors in the throttle body, or do you just have to replace them as you go?
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:57 AM   #38
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Humm, I have a similar issue on a '97 4.0, but my issue is it will almost never start on first try but always will on second. Usally after sitting for a while. I will try the same fuel pump test, any other ideas?

Also have an '88 2.5 that had starting spark issues and come to find out it was the connection points where the coil mounts to the ecu, they were dirty. Cleaned them and fires right up now! (not that it helps but FYI)
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:40 AM   #39
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Interesting!
He says he has no SPARK - so everyone thinks it's FUEL related? From the pump, the relay, to throttle body have been blamed for a NO SPARK CONDITION!

Are you guys politicians or what? They don't deal in reality either.

Have a close look at the coil - take it out to look. Look for any signs of burned marks, grayish smoke like streaks. If any, replace. TJ coils are not like older oil filled coils, they are air insulated and have a reputation for flashing through the insulation. A new coil is certainly much cheaper, and easier, than a new pump!!!!!!!!!!!

And - yes, it IS possible to ruin a coil by leaving the coil wire disconnected - there's no place for the voltage to go but to itself, shorting out the coil. BUT - A coil with good insulation shouldn't do that. If the insulation was weak anyway (old or a cheapie) , it'll flash through.

To check to see if the coil is getting it's pulse - connect an analog voltmeter from ground to the pigtail on the harness right by the coil. Crank it - you should see the meter bouncing up and down. Or, a Dwell meter will do the same. If it's getting it's pulse but no coil output - replace coil.

Defective Jeep coils are common.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:17 PM   #40
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Humm, I have a similar issue on a '97 4.0, but my issue is it will almost never start on first try but always will on second. Usally after sitting for a while. I will try the same fuel pump test, any other ideas?
That's normally caused by a leaky anti-drainback valve located inside the pressure regulator on top of the fuel pump. When it leaks, it allows all of the fuel that is supposed to stay put in the fuel injector fuel rail on the engine to instead drain down back into the fuel tank. The long start time after that happens is the length of time it takes for the fuel pump to get the fuel back up to the injectors again.

You can often find pressure regulators for sale on eBay sold separately so you don't have to buy the entire fuel pump assembly from the dealer.
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:50 AM   #41
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^ simplified, it looses pressure once the fuel pump is off.

try priming the fuel pump.
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:04 AM   #42
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take a wrench to your starters leads cross them make sure you hear it, then get in your jeep and try starting it then.

i had a similar problem and thats what i did, it turned out to be my computer.

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